I have a 2006 MCS with stock 205/45R17 Dunlop 9000 DSST RFs. I have never been a tire guy (bought whatever was on sale) but after blowing an RF ($390 to replace...wow...but fortunately I bought a tire warranty so I don't have to eat that), I need to consider a Plan B for pure economic reasons.

I will eventually replace the RF tires with non-RF (when, I'm not sure). I would also like to get new wheels. I am not a track guy so I don't need super lightweight high performance wheels, I just don't like the stock wheels (silver S-Lites?).

I live in Vegas so all season tires are not a factor. Also, I am considering lowering my car...not aggressively but just to get a little better look.

Now, on to the questions:

1. If I switch from RF to non-RF, would I need to buy a different size tire/wheel combo or could I stick with the same size? Should I?
2. If I lower the car, what impact would that have on tire/wheel selection(rubbing, etc...)?
3. Recommendations for reasonably priced daily driver tires that can support "spirited" driving but will not be subjected to routine track driving (twice a year is likely however).
4. Recommendations for reasonably priced wheels that look "sporty" but won't break the bank. Some weight savings is good but cost and look is more important. (I know this one is very subjective as everyone has different tastes). Just as important, ballpark cost? (Budget reasons)
5. If I buy the tires/wheels on eBay or online store (e.g. Tire Rack), do they mount and balance, or do I need to find a local guy to do that for me (How much would THAT cost since I would need to add that to my budget?). More than likely I will buy them separately so I suspect this step will be required regardless.

Thanks in advance!

 

Wow! You're full of questions, aren't you?!
#1, #2, and #3...DITCH THE RUNFLATS!!!!!! The difference in ride quality must be felt to be believed.
If you are looking for A/M wheels, please make sure that they are lighter than the S-lites (not hard to do, as the S's are anchors). Less than 20 lbs per wheel will make a notable difference. Less than 15 lbs, and you'll be in heaven!
Tires: oh so many choices! I run Kumho Ectsa AWT's in 215/45-17. Nice change from the RFs. Not very expensive. Depends on what wheel size you choose. You can run 15s, 16s or 17s. Or larger, if you're feeling froggy.

You just opened a really big can o' worms, and will need to do some serious research to find what works best for you.

 

Understand about ditching the RFs...but budget is an issue with the other mods I want to do so it will likely wait until the current ones are used up.

Why would I want to go to smaller tires (15, 16)? Not that I don't want to, but what are the advantages?

 

I think 3cocinas meant to say smaller diameter wheels, further reducing weight and cost while increasing ride comfort (larger sidewall). Many people run 15" or 16" rims that are wider than stock and have a lesser offset (+40-45) so they could fit wider tires. Definitely ditch the runflats for some performance tires, though!

 

OK, you need to do some shopping for wheels at tirerack.com or similar source. If still needing advice you can contact Alex@tirerack.com with your questions, call or email is best.

When damaging a runflat you are best not going to the dealership for replacement. But it will take a few days to get a tire from tirerack.com, not too long. It will need to be mounted and balanced by a shop that handles runflats- tirerack has a list of shops to recommend.

For stock sized 205/45-17 runflat replacement tire consider from tirerack
Kumho Ecsta SPT XRP Ultra High Performance Summer tire $133 each
340 treadwear V speed rated 28 pounds!
or
Continental ContiProContact SSR $171 each
400 treadwear V speed rated 21 pounds
Most other runflats are quite expensive.

1. When changing RF to non RF you can choose any size tire that fits your rims and still fits your MINI wheel arches without much rubbing.
205/45-17 is stock sized and works fine but the selection of tires isn't quite as good as other sizes like:
215/40-17 (less than stock outer tire diameter)
215/45-17 (more than stock outer tire diameter about 24.7")
225/45-17 (larger than stock at 25" outer tire diameter)
Smaller than stock tire means speedo will read faster than actual and miles will log on your odometer a little quicker, your car will act like it has lowered gearing, this is good for faster acceleration in lower gears.
Larger than stock means it might be at risk for rubbing the plastic inner wheel arch liners and especially so if you lower your MINI using lowering springs or coilovers. Stock suspension works with any of these sizes.

2. Lowering your MINI increases cornering handling and lowers center of gravity but makes the ride a little stiffer/harsher. After lowering you can realign to stock settings to smooth ride quality a little. Once you lower you have less clearance front and rear and you have to be careful with any aftermarket wheel upgrade you might have had earlier. Wheel offset become more crucial and tire selection becomes a little more limited favoring tires with less than stock outer tire diameter or those with lower sidewalls such as 40 or 45 series tires. It is still possible to get good street tires like 205/50-16 or 205/55-15 and have a lowered suspension because these sizes fit the MINI wheel wells.

3.There are many many choices. Two ways to approach the problem is from what tire to use, then select the size, then select the wheel. Or select the wheel which limits the sizes that will work then select the tire in the right tire class. Both approaches have merits. One favors the look of the wheel first.

Common solutions-
15" wheels- are cheaper, light weight, are easy to find, fit the MINI and work great with various sized tires of many classes from Ultra High Performance Summer or better and on down. Try 205/55-15 tires and 15x7 rims
16" wheels are available and a good match for the MINI balancing appearance, weight, good selection, and good selection of tires.
Try 205/50-16 tires and 16x7 rims.
17" wheels are heavier and while they look nice usually require lower sidewalls to fit the MINI. 40 and 45 series tires work in 205 or 215mm tire widths.
A lowered MINI will work with wheel offsets roughly +42 to +48mm.
Wider rims and tires may need less offset and smaller tire outer diameter to get enough clearance to avoid rubbing.

4. This is very subjective. Search around the NAM threads and look at the pictures. Go to various wheel sites or tirerack.com or edgeracing.com and look at the wheel designs. 15x7, 16x7, 17x7 are all possible in 4x100 bolt pattern. Tirerack.com has a big selection, Rota wheels are popular with many styles for the MINI. Wheels often cost about $120 each on up to $400+ each but the more expensive ones are usually forged alloy which is strong and light in weight.

5. If you buy both tires and rims from the same source it is often mounted and balanced bundled with the cost of the purchase. But if you buy separately then you pay for the mounting, valves, balancing and disposal fee if any. Sometimes your local MINI or BMW club with have special rates for mounting and balancing of tires and wheels in your area. SCCA clubs also have discounts.

There is no rush to buy anything if you have four working tires for now. Do your research and homework to avoid problems. Make a budget and think ahead shortterm and longterm.

 

You have a later car with lower bottom gear ratios, so I would not shy away from a slightly taller tire. Given that you will spend 95% of your time on warm, dry pavement I strongly endorse the Falken Azenis RT615 in 215/45-17. Paired with the TRD PR 1 or 1.2 in 17x7 you have a very cost effective, very sticky and very cool-looking package. The Kumho MX is another sticky and relatively inexpensive choice available in this size.

Just my $0.02.

 

 

 

Not a bad looking wheel but I can't find it anywhere to get a price???

 

I seem to have miscommunicated based on some of the responses...I have no plans to stay with RFs once the current ones go dead. I thought I would just because I bought the warranty, but then I realized the "unused" part of the warranty is less than the cost difference bewtween a set of RFs and non-RFs (well, maybe not if I buy a spare...).

 

Outmotoring has the TDRs. ~$125/ea and up, depending on size and finish.
Also keep an eye on the Marketplace sub-forum; there are some good deals to be had.
If you go the route of buying wheels from one source and tires from another, check around for a good tire shop with a Roadforce balancer. Some of your fellow club members should be able to help you in that regard.