Just wondering if anyone else has the Willwood, front big break kit?
If so, I've noticed the calipers have started to look more purple in color instead of the True Black they used to be.
If so what solutions would there be?
I'm feeling it's a result of the east coast winter.

Any suggestions

 

Thats normal color change of anodized materials from heat. Black turns a purplish blue, Reds fade and become pinkish.

BTW and I am not picking on you but putting this out in general. Our wonderful complex English does this to many. When talking automotive its Brake, when you drop the glass, it's Break.

Oh, this probably should be in the Tires, Wheels and Brakes forum as well.

 

I thought that's probably the case.
Just wanted to make sure.
Thanks for catching the Brake/Break
I was in the middle of a few things at work and that was a result.

 

Maybe you need a break from work? And I've never heard of anyone breaking a Wilwood brake kit. For me, they are truly great brakes, at a great brake price.

 

One method of avoiding the change of anodizing finish is to have them done in a powder coated color. This seals the finish and will remain color for a much longer time.

I've also seen UV play a roll in color change so whatch where you park every day!

 

Thread renamed (Break -> Brake) & moved to Tires, Wheels & Brakes forum.

 

I like the sound of that!

 

how good are the willwoods as compared to the JCW brakes?

 

This really should be in a thread of it's own comparing the various BBK's including the JCW.

However...

First, why do you (not specificaly you Scott but to all) need a BBK. The OEM setup will stop the car within the same distance range of all of the BBK's. All the various brake setups, including the OEM, are limited by the available traction of the tires. All a BBK buys you is repeatability. It's mostly needed on the track where one finds themselves hauling down from speed again and again where a BBK works. In day to day street drving those of us that don't live on the side of a mountain will find little use for a BBK, save for it's Bling factor.

So what did you buy for that $1-2K in brakes...in a word, mass. Not so much weight but mass. BBK's can take and shed heat faster then OEM's when choosen wisely. There are others factors as well. BBK Calipers are usually larger and better built with the ability to shed heat better. They are also stiffer, allowing for less flex in the caliper, contributing to a better overall feel. Often there is a larger selection of pad materials too.

Is the Wilwood kit better then the JCW?

I'm not certain, I've never tried the JCW. On paper the Wilwood has the edge with it's larger calipers, larger pistions, larger rotors and increased fluid capacity. All these contribute to shedding heat better, which in the end is what we desire.

 

I do 4-5 track days a year, and I love my Wilwoods. After a long session on the track, they stop hard every time.

 

I ran a spread sheet on all the kits a few years ago. However getting all the proper data in one place is hard. And the options vary by supplier with new parts all the time and such. Of course not all care to open up with what they feel is secret information or care to dare to compare for fear of being out classed. It's hard to do a full unbiased report regardless.

Any BBK is all about efficiency or duty cycle. Working larger parts at a lower duty cycle with the same results nets you a gain in efficiency with more reserve. Some kits also weigh less. Rotor mass is still good but caliper weight is down. Some buy for track, some for weight loss, some for looks- it's all about what you want.

 

Aren't stock brakes just as good if you get high-temp brake fluid?

 

No. The fluid is but one component. Rotor mass is another - diameter and width. Rotor diamter is yet again another - leverage. Caliper strength is another -does the caliper flex. Piston quantity and arrangment is another, Pad material is another.

My Willwoods were in a different solar system when compared with the stock brakes.

 

yes, my hats changed color. so did the unswept area of the rotor. here is my TCE/Willwood 13" kit w/ poly h's as there were intended to be used...
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=d1ab6770.pbr

do you think that i like them?

 

Beautiful video!

 

Just some general thoughts.

Any anodized finish will change color when it gets hot enough. Or they change from exposure to UV- watch where you park every day!

I can now do powder coated calipers in red and some of the Wilwood factory stuff is now done in black. (that's playing hell on some kits front and rear when they don't match...but that's another story!) The issue with PC is that I personally feel it tends to trap heat more. And if it gets hot enough the PC can soften and dust sticks to it. *I have no firm proof of the heat issue but it will not breathe as well just by design.

As for putting better fluid and or pads in a stock caliper- for many that's a fine package. Certainly the street enthusiast. But for those who are more serious (see video link!) the problems here are duty cycle.

The iron caliper is superior in strenght, sure. But it also is not as efficient in clamping and release. More over when it gets hot- it stays hot. Aluminum can better manage heat and will not hold it as long, thus the very good fluid in the iron caliper will likely boil before the low grade fluid in a good caliper. Add to that the rotor efficiency by way of more mass, greater swept area (amount of surface covered in one rotation) greater effective radius (location of pad) and the more dedicated pad compounds...after a about five laps the stockers are left behind.