We've thought about it... We'd basically have to start from scratch on the winding of our current springs to make it work, but our supplier suggested the same thing. Nearly everything would have to change... Maybe we'll look into it further.

If so, I would assume you could be our guinea pig?

 

Absolutely! I'd love to get -2.5 in the front. PM me when you're ready.

Thanks,

Alan

 

I'm having trouble with my 615s. I can't get them cool enough after the second run. They keep getting greasier no matter how much cold water I spray on them. Today I was all over the place. By my 5th run I felt like I was running in the rain. How long does a 615 tire dedicated to autocross last? I'm not that impressed with them in the summer.

 

I drove 615's on the STI (3200lbs and 290whp) with 2 drivers in Florida's summer heat (95-100) with 140 track temps. Ran within a tenth over 6 runs, that is 12 runs total between the 2 of us with just spraying them down.

Maybe you should use a pyrometer and see what the heat distribution is and see if adjusting camber or tire pressures makes a difference.

The surface you are running on makes a difference too. Sometimes no matter what tire you are using, some asphalt feels like a skating rink once the track temps rise.

Could be a combination of factors.

 

The concrete we were running on is by a bay and I don't think I was really aware of how much sand was being blown on course. A few different people were complaining about the same issue. I was back out there today and the sand was being blown away from the track. I had much more grip and it didn't drop off with each run like before. I got the pressures better today and cooled them more as well. I do need to adjust my camber but I need the camber plates first. Thanks for the tips!

 

I myself had the 615's and they were okay to me, same issues like getting to warm fast and being really greasie. I myself liked the older azenis better. The 615s lasted me only 14k which sux I think. Do the hankook give you a couple more miles for a low good budget tire ?
I canyon driven with the 615's and had to stop every time to cool them down. Running the bfgoodrich sports now and so far so good , I love how they dont heat up fast and last ALOT longer but I do want something a bit stickier.

 

If you don't mind spending a few bucks, the RE01R is probably the best street, autocross, trackday in one tire on the market, followed by the super expensive AD07. If you aren't worried about a few tenths, MX's have always handled heat well and been great for track days.

 

We just got -2.2 with our current lowering springs on a Cabrio over the weekend (they're 1/2" narrower than OEM, or basically a wire width)... This was with liberal massaging of the inside of the towers, but we could have gone more. At -2.2 up front, there was a finger width of clearance between the coils and the tower...

 

hmmmm... I believe you. To get to -1.7 the spring is about 1/16 away from the inside vertical rib on the driver's side. With your narrower springs I could probably get to -2.0 before the top spring perch/seat got close to the vertical rib. I just can't bring myself to do any "liberal massaging". I'd rather bite the bullet and get coilovers and be done with it.

But thanks for the clarification.

Alan

p.s. My 2003 was delivered in February 2003, so I think it is a December 2002 build. And I have the Helix/RDR camber plates. I used to live in NJ. Eric did the install himself.

 

What is a good pressure to use with the Falken Azenis? I just had them put on yesterday and will be driving them to an HPDE on Friday, as well as on the track Sat. and Sun., and then back home again after the HPDE is over. I'm running 205-50-15 on an MCS.

 

Bring a piece of chalk and chalk the sidewalls. Adjust pressures as needed to keep rollover to a reasonable limit or to add some grip / rotation as desired. Your instructor should be able to offer ideas on how to adjust pressures to suit your car, your driving, the track, the day, etc.

But, err... start at 37-38psi cold all around as a wild guess.

 

But the liberal massaging with a big hammer is very therapeutic...

I certainly understand, though.

 

Personally? I'd start with 35 psi cold all the way around as a baseline... Back when running 205/50R15s Azenis, that's where I started in the very beginning. I ended up with 2 psi less in the rear as a rule, eventually, given the evolution of my suspension setup, alignment, etc.

You can use the chalk trick - better yet, see if someone in the paddock has a pyrometer that you can borrow and check the temps across the tires right after a session. Also, check your hot pressure after coming in from a session.

And then, start playing about if you want...

I suggest keeping track of the course, road surface, ambient temps, tire temps (if available) and pressures (cold and hot) for the whole event in a log book. This will help you figure out what works and what doesn't should you decide to play around with pressures between sessions, as well as where to set them the next time. Also, you can take your data to other events and use them as a starting point. If you get hooked on track work, this info is invaluable (and you don't have to remember all the numbers!).

If/when you get really serious, you can also log the alignment settings, shock settings, spring rates, corner weights, etc. in addition... Sure makes things easier. Personally, I don't really muck with anything but pressures and shock settings in the Cooper - Dr. Mike, on the other hand, sometimes mucks about with everything on his car from time-to-time at the track (camber, toe, etc.).

Of course, YMMV - fine tuning of pressures is required depending on your suspension setup, the course, the surface and driving style.

 

Thanks VERY much! This is the info I wanted, and I'll try it. I'll start with 35 psi and go from there. I think Minzilla has a pyrometer and can show me how to use it, as he will be at Mid-Ohio this weekend, too.

 

I ran the Hankooks last year in STX and did a few national tours. I like the grip available but they are pretty vauge and you have to make the turn in before you would start with the falkens. The falkens i found were way more direct and much more confident in the cornering but lacked the overall grip of the handkook. We were two drivers and got alot of runs locally and nationaly on them. I would run the Hankooks again if it was were two drivers again.

 

Happy to help... have fun...

 

bang for your buck, the Hankooks are better. i believe the Falkens are silica based, which when heated will not grip as good.

hankooks pattern also looks exactly the same as Advan Neova's. hankooks are much cheaper though

 

Well, for now, the Falkens are on my car and will have to do. When they wear out, I'll try the Hankooks, too. Then, I'll know for sure which is better for my car...and me.