Tires, Wheels, & Brakes Discussion about wheels, tires, and brakes for the new MINI.

Brake pad recommendations?

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Old 09-30-2007, 04:09 PM
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Brake pad recommendations?

03 MCS is daily driver, buy will be on the track 2-3 times/yr. Doing all four wheels. Replacing rotors with standard, or maybe ATE slotted, but not x-drilled or cryo. Would appreciate suggestions for pads. I liked Perf Friction Z-rated on a BMW 535i, but can't seem to find them for Mini. MUST be good on first cold stop as well as descent on track (driver's schools). Lime Rock Park is not very hard on brakes.

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Old 09-30-2007, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dmichael
03 MCS is daily driver, buy will be on the track 2-3 times/yr. Doing all four wheels. Replacing rotors with standard, or maybe ATE slotted, but not x-drilled or cryo. Would appreciate suggestions for pads. I liked Perf Friction Z-rated on a BMW 535i, but can't seem to find them for Mini. MUST be good on first cold stop as well as descent on track (driver's schools). Lime Rock Park is not very hard on brakes.

.
Try searching. This subject has been discussed many times before.

see
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=110334

Try Hawk HPS pads (talk to Alex@tirerack.com for more info)- these are good street pads that can also be used a little on the track. If you want you can also change brake fluid to something that boils at a higher temperature so it can handle the increased heat from track use, otherwise you will risk boiling your stock brake fluid- easy to do.

If you want street only pads then Hawk Ceramic pads.
 
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Old 09-30-2007, 06:24 PM
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My '06 MCSa is a daily driver, too, and I have Hawk HPS pads all the way around with s/s lines. Like you, I do HPDEs 2-3 times a year, at Mid-Ohio and Putnam Park [IN]. I like these pads because they are wearing well, don't make much noise, and dust minimally. They stop cold and do not seem to fade when heated up. I used to run Ferodo 2500s on the front but changed them out due to their noisiness and extreme dusting. However, they stopped the car EVERY time...on a dime. I change my brake fluid [blue, hi temp] twice a year and have had NO problems whatsoever.
 
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Old 09-30-2007, 06:32 PM
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Thank you both. Looks like I'll try the Hawk HPS, at least until I decide if I want separate track and street pads, which I doubt.
And thanks for the referral to Tire Rack. I'll have to call them tomorrow. I note that they do NOT recommend slotted or grooved rotors for track use, but then categorize the ATE PreiumOne rotors as performance/autocross/track???
And I will swap back and forth between Super Blue and Gold, probably 2/yr, a trick I learned when I had a BMW 535i.
 
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Old 09-30-2007, 06:42 PM
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6 months between fluid changes is the most time that most schools will let you get away with. I start my track days in April and my last one is usually at the end of October, so I'm usually good for my "season".
 
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Old 09-30-2007, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by dmichael
Thank you both. Looks like I'll try the Hawk HPS, at least until I decide if I want separate track and street pads, which I doubt.
And thanks for the referral to Tire Rack. I'll have to call them tomorrow. I note that they do NOT recommend slotted or grooved rotors for track use, but then categorize the ATE PreiumOne rotors as performance/autocross/track???
And I will swap back and forth between Super Blue and Gold, probably 2/yr, a trick I learned when I had a BMW 535i.
I think you will be OK with the Hawk HPS pads.

I do run Ferodo DSC2500 front and rear for daily street use and autocross and for track in the past and it was fine for me but has higher cost and a little more brake dust. Wear is OK with cryo treated powerslot rotors.

For you, stock rotors will likely be fine. Watch out for the finish on any rotor replacement, some are not coated and tend to rust easily while others are plated and resist rust better.

Changing brake fluid is good. ATE super blue and regular ATE fluid are good enough, there are many others to choose from. No real need to move to Stainless steel brake lines or Tyrol Caliper stiffeners yet. Maybe later if you really enjoy tracking your MINI.
 
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Old 09-30-2007, 06:56 PM
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I've little doubt I'll enjoy the Mini on the track. I really bought it for that, though economics mean it has to get daily use, too. I've been going to HPDS for about 12 years, first in a Jetta GLI straight stock, then a BMW 535i (E34) with Racing Dynamics suspension.

Do you have a link for the Tyrol? Haven't heard of that mod, though I was thinking of adding brass caliper bushings, or are we using different terms for the same thing?
 
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Old 09-30-2007, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dmichael
I've little doubt I'll enjoy the Mini on the track. I really bought it for that, though economics mean it has to get daily use, too. I've been going to HPDS for about 12 years, first in a Jetta GLI straight stock, then a BMW 535i (E34) with Racing Dynamics suspension.

Do you have a link for the Tyrol? Haven't heard of that mod, though I was thinking of adding brass caliper bushings, or are we using different terms for the same thing?
Driving school is always good. Worth the effort. Don't forget to pass some M3s each day or at least annoy them. Leave the M5s alone, they might get mad.

Tyrol-
http://helix13.com/mini/products/brakes
HMS 3025 TyrolSport Brake Caliper Stiffening Kit $119.00
TyrolSport’s revolutionary new Brake Caliper Stiffening bushings prevent the caliper flex inherent in the stock rubber-bushed design. This flex leads to uneven pad wear and rotor deposits under hard usage. An inexpensive upgrade to the stock that should be part of your next brake job. Track tested and mother approved! These are newly developed for the Mini Cooper and Mini Cooper S. They are offered for front calipers and back calipers and an availible stainless steel snapring option to replace the black phospate coated steel rings.

----------------------
It's OK, some owners really like them. Not really essential until you do the basic upgrades first. You do need to maintain them and lube regularly compared to lower maintenance stock bushings.
 
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Old 10-01-2007, 08:08 PM
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I must respectfully disagree. At the last school I attended, I hugged the rear bumper of a new M5 (2005) for several laps. He'd walk away on the main straight, but I'd be perched on his tail again by the end of the decreasing radious 180 after the straight and stay there for the remainder of the lap. He was finally flagged to let me by, and as I passed him, out came the checkered flag to end the day. Glorious!
But those were my BMW days. Now if I can do something similar in the MCS....
 
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Old 10-01-2007, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dmichael
I must respectfully disagree. At the last school I attended, I hugged the rear bumper of a new M5 (2005) for several laps. He'd walk away on the main straight, but I'd be perched on his tail again by the end of the decreasing radious 180 after the straight and stay there for the remainder of the lap. He was finally flagged to let me by, and as I passed him, out came the checkered flag to end the day. Glorious!
But those were my BMW days. Now if I can do something similar in the MCS....
Good work. If you are in an MCS it will be harder to keep up with an M5 due to lack of pulling power on the straights, turns are fine. If you can keep up like that he should be flagged and passed.

M5 driver's skill may vary a lot, some are very very good while others really don't belong in such a good car. It's scary powerful but it can also run into trouble and if on street tires might not have the grip an MCS has in the corners.
 
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