Big brake kits and wheels... updated list
#226
The documentation with the kit doesn't indicate it as a supported setup, but infinite streams fit fine with the JCW BBK. Not sure why it's not listed, since I believe you can order the JCW with these wheels. The tab on the pads is quite close to the wheel. The 16" Bridgespokes don't seem to fit (unsurprisingly).
--Matt
--Matt
#227
Got the answer in page 7 of this thread per photo provided...7 lbs vs 2008 Clubman OEM...should be more difference in R53 non-JCW.
Does anybody know the weight difference between:
A. R53 non-JCW stock rotor/ Caliper
B. Wilwood 12.2" BBK
Does anybody know the weight difference between:
A. R53 non-JCW stock rotor/ Caliper
B. Wilwood 12.2" BBK
Last edited by ED955S; 06-21-2013 at 05:59 PM. Reason: answer in page 7
#230
You're right, the R53 non-JCW has smaller rotor, weight variance vs Willwood will be LESS than '08 Clubman vs Willwood. I guess, my orig question will remain. Someone has to have measured this at one time.
#233
#236
Hello everyone, a crazy question for all you, I have found in very good price a brake set from r56 challenge car (ap racing calipers and discs) and I have been tempted to install it in my car! Do you thing you that is feasible or realistic?
I have also found the kw coilovers from the challenge cars, I have a dream to make my car a challenge replica..
Thank you all in advance.
I have also found the kw coilovers from the challenge cars, I have a dream to make my car a challenge replica..
Thank you all in advance.
#237
Hello everyone, a crazy question for all you, I have found in very good price a brake set from r56 challenge car (ap racing calipers and discs) and I have been tempted to install it in my car! Do you thing you that is feasible or realistic?
I have also found the kw coilovers from the challenge cars, I have a dream to make my car a challenge replica..
Thank you all in advance.
I have also found the kw coilovers from the challenge cars, I have a dream to make my car a challenge replica..
Thank you all in advance.
Welly tomy..since we don't know what you are driving or fitting it too that's hard to answer. We'll assume you drive a MINI, maybe an R53-56, and not a Chevy pickup.
If you have any of the basic R50-56 platforms (admit I'm not up on all MINI jargon) I don't see any issues. If you drive a Countryman then; no.
The couple of things you "might" have issue with are:
Stud size; the older cars had M12 studs. If you have M14 holes you'll need to have them drilled out in the hats.
Caliper piston area: assuming the Challenge car used only the stock bore single master cylinder you'll be fin. If they ran a dual cylinder race set up you won't make this work to easy.
Wheel fit; given the size of some AP calipers and thicker race pads (and wider rotors) you can be pretty certain you'll need wheel spacers. They could be incorporated into the hats now but I doubt it. Wheel fit will be based on both the diameter and spoke design. Spoke clearance is the usual thing to get past for spacers.
Pads; you'll want to be sure you get street pads with the set up or you'll destroy the rotors and pads quickly.
Condition; hard to say what you are getting..but it's used. And I'd look at rotor width, pad life and possibly a caliper rebuild kit if they have extensive track use.
Cost; as used parts you should expect to pay roughly 1/2 of new. If the rotors are new, pads new, extra parts, calipers serviced (proof) or such the cost could be a bit more. But they're still used. If you get yourself upwards of $1000 into this here you may want to explore new options as well and see if your deal is as good as you think.
#238
Welly tomy..since we don't know what you are driving or fitting it too that's hard to answer. We'll assume you drive a MINI, maybe an R53-56, and not a Chevy pickup.
If you have any of the basic R50-56 platforms (admit I'm not up on all MINI jargon) I don't see any issues. If you drive a Countryman then; no.
The couple of things you "might" have issue with are:
Stud size; the older cars had M12 studs. If you have M14 holes you'll need to have them drilled out in the hats.
Caliper piston area: assuming the Challenge car used only the stock bore single master cylinder you'll be fin. If they ran a dual cylinder race set up you won't make this work to easy.
Wheel fit; given the size of some AP calipers and thicker race pads (and wider rotors) you can be pretty certain you'll need wheel spacers. They could be incorporated into the hats now but I doubt it. Wheel fit will be based on both the diameter and spoke design. Spoke clearance is the usual thing to get past for spacers.
Pads; you'll want to be sure you get street pads with the set up or you'll destroy the rotors and pads quickly.
Condition; hard to say what you are getting..but it's used. And I'd look at rotor width, pad life and possibly a caliper rebuild kit if they have extensive track use.
Cost; as used parts you should expect to pay roughly 1/2 of new. If the rotors are new, pads new, extra parts, calipers serviced (proof) or such the cost could be a bit more. But they're still used. If you get yourself upwards of $1000 into this here you may want to explore new options as well and see if your deal is as good as you think.
If you have any of the basic R50-56 platforms (admit I'm not up on all MINI jargon) I don't see any issues. If you drive a Countryman then; no.
The couple of things you "might" have issue with are:
Stud size; the older cars had M12 studs. If you have M14 holes you'll need to have them drilled out in the hats.
Caliper piston area: assuming the Challenge car used only the stock bore single master cylinder you'll be fin. If they ran a dual cylinder race set up you won't make this work to easy.
Wheel fit; given the size of some AP calipers and thicker race pads (and wider rotors) you can be pretty certain you'll need wheel spacers. They could be incorporated into the hats now but I doubt it. Wheel fit will be based on both the diameter and spoke design. Spoke clearance is the usual thing to get past for spacers.
Pads; you'll want to be sure you get street pads with the set up or you'll destroy the rotors and pads quickly.
Condition; hard to say what you are getting..but it's used. And I'd look at rotor width, pad life and possibly a caliper rebuild kit if they have extensive track use.
Cost; as used parts you should expect to pay roughly 1/2 of new. If the rotors are new, pads new, extra parts, calipers serviced (proof) or such the cost could be a bit more. But they're still used. If you get yourself upwards of $1000 into this here you may want to explore new options as well and see if your deal is as good as you think.
The total cost of the brake kit, for all parts brand new, estimated to be less than 1000 euro.
#239
About $1350 and all new seems a good price for new parts, no complaints there.
Wheel fit will remain you big question. You can see they use/offer/supply a wheel spacer. And despite the wheel offset being different that alone won't tell you all you need to know.
The shape of the spokes will dictate what will clear and not. If both 17" that means it fits for the diameter. It's the amount of clearance you require to the spoke that will dictate how thick the wheel spacer will need to be. *And keep in mind ANY wheel spacer will require longer studs or longer bolts.
Wheel fit will remain you big question. You can see they use/offer/supply a wheel spacer. And despite the wheel offset being different that alone won't tell you all you need to know.
The shape of the spokes will dictate what will clear and not. If both 17" that means it fits for the diameter. It's the amount of clearance you require to the spoke that will dictate how thick the wheel spacer will need to be. *And keep in mind ANY wheel spacer will require longer studs or longer bolts.
#240
About $1350 and all new seems a good price for new parts, no complaints there.
Wheel fit will remain you big question. You can see they use/offer/supply a wheel spacer. And despite the wheel offset being different that alone won't tell you all you need to know.
The shape of the spokes will dictate what will clear and not. If both 17" that means it fits for the diameter. It's the amount of clearance you require to the spoke that will dictate how thick the wheel spacer will need to be. *And keep in mind ANY wheel spacer will require longer studs or longer bolts.
Wheel fit will remain you big question. You can see they use/offer/supply a wheel spacer. And despite the wheel offset being different that alone won't tell you all you need to know.
The shape of the spokes will dictate what will clear and not. If both 17" that means it fits for the diameter. It's the amount of clearance you require to the spoke that will dictate how thick the wheel spacer will need to be. *And keep in mind ANY wheel spacer will require longer studs or longer bolts.
#241
#242
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
I have finally had a chance to try the MINI 6-star twin spoke 16" wheels with the Wilwood 12.2" BBK. While I could get them on, there was only about a half a mm clearance. Definitely needs a spacer. A 5mm works fine. Remember the longer wheel bolts.
Just FYI - the Bridgespokes fit fine over these brakes.
Just FYI - the Bridgespokes fit fine over these brakes.
#243
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
DSC Reprogramming required with a BBK?????
I find the text in the Consumer Information very interesting. It says that the DSC is reprogrammed with the addition of the JCW sport brakes. I wonder if this is done for the DTC as well and has anyone done this when they have installed a BBK? I am mostly interested in this for the eLSD that stays on after the traction control is disabled.
#244
I find the text in the Consumer Information very interesting. It says that the DSC is reprogrammed with the addition of the JCW sport brakes. I wonder if this is done for the DTC as well and has anyone done this when they have installed a BBK? I am mostly interested in this for the eLSD that stays on after the traction control is disabled.
--Matt
#247
Yep, got the full procedure.
I'm fairly convinced that the difference in behavior can't be attributed entirely to the more stock-like demeanor (initial bite, etc.) of the stock JCW pads, since the Front EBC Yellow/Rear EBC Read on all stock caliper setup that I had prior to replacing the fronts with the Wilwood kit still had reasonably stock-like eLSD behavior.
--Matt
I'm fairly convinced that the difference in behavior can't be attributed entirely to the more stock-like demeanor (initial bite, etc.) of the stock JCW pads, since the Front EBC Yellow/Rear EBC Read on all stock caliper setup that I had prior to replacing the fronts with the Wilwood kit still had reasonably stock-like eLSD behavior.
--Matt
#248
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Yep, got the full procedure.
I'm fairly convinced that the difference in behavior can't be attributed entirely to the more stock-like demeanor (initial bite, etc.) of the stock JCW pads, since the Front EBC Yellow/Rear EBC Read on all stock caliper setup that I had prior to replacing the fronts with the Wilwood kit still had reasonably stock-like eLSD behavior.
--Matt
I'm fairly convinced that the difference in behavior can't be attributed entirely to the more stock-like demeanor (initial bite, etc.) of the stock JCW pads, since the Front EBC Yellow/Rear EBC Read on all stock caliper setup that I had prior to replacing the fronts with the Wilwood kit still had reasonably stock-like eLSD behavior.
--Matt
If I had to guess, I would say that you at least drive aggressively. Have you ever track either of setups? Your experience if you have...?
I talked to my SA about doing this on my car with the Wilwoods. He said that he would need to check. I'll post what he comes up with.
#249
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Matt,
If I had to guess, I would say that you at least drive aggressively. Have you ever track either of setups? Your experience if you have...?
I talked to my SA about doing this on my car with the Wilwoods. He said that he would need to check. I'll post what he comes up with.
If I had to guess, I would say that you at least drive aggressively. Have you ever track either of setups? Your experience if you have...?
I talked to my SA about doing this on my car with the Wilwoods. He said that he would need to check. I'll post what he comes up with.
FWIW - everything except the eLSD seems to work fine with the Wilwood. The ABS, traction control and stability control all seem to work as well as they should - "tested" them on the track. The eLSD doesn't seem to get enough "bit" with these brakes. It is almost like an open differential.
#250
Matt,
If I had to guess, I would say that you at least drive aggressively. Have you ever track either of setups? Your experience if you have...?
I talked to my SA about doing this on my car with the Wilwoods. He said that he would need to check. I'll post what he comes up with.
If I had to guess, I would say that you at least drive aggressively. Have you ever track either of setups? Your experience if you have...?
I talked to my SA about doing this on my car with the Wilwoods. He said that he would need to check. I'll post what he comes up with.
Well, to be expect, my SA says that because the DSC upgrade was designed for the JCW brakes and may be incompatable with the Wilwoods, they can't/won't do the up grade.
FWIW - everything except the eLSD seems to work fine with the Wilwood. The ABS, traction control and stability control all seem to work as well as they should - "tested" them on the track. The eLSD doesn't seem to get enough "bit" with these brakes. It is almost like an open differential.
FWIW - everything except the eLSD seems to work fine with the Wilwood. The ABS, traction control and stability control all seem to work as well as they should - "tested" them on the track. The eLSD doesn't seem to get enough "bit" with these brakes. It is almost like an open differential.
--Matt