need new brake pads
#1
need new brake pads
looking at the Hawk HPS...Car has 35k and rotors look ok, have not checked rear pads...should I:
1. turn front rotors and replace front pads, change to type 200
2. turn front/rear rotors replace front and rear pads, change to type 200
3. ATE Premium One slotted rotors front/rear/ Hawk HPS Pads, type 200
also think about the brass bushings to add to whatever route I go.
Any help would on what I should do would be great. I guess I am not very sure on the impact of rear brakes.
1. turn front rotors and replace front pads, change to type 200
2. turn front/rear rotors replace front and rear pads, change to type 200
3. ATE Premium One slotted rotors front/rear/ Hawk HPS Pads, type 200
also think about the brass bushings to add to whatever route I go.
Any help would on what I should do would be great. I guess I am not very sure on the impact of rear brakes.
#2
looking at the Hawk HPS...Car has 35k and rotors look ok, have not checked rear pads...should I:
1. turn front rotors and replace front pads, change to type 200
2. turn front/rear rotors replace front and rear pads, change to type 200
3. ATE Premium One slotted rotors front/rear/ Hawk HPS Pads, type 200
also think about the brass bushings to add to whatever route I go.
Any help would on what I should do would be great. I guess I am not very sure on the impact of rear brakes.
1. turn front rotors and replace front pads, change to type 200
2. turn front/rear rotors replace front and rear pads, change to type 200
3. ATE Premium One slotted rotors front/rear/ Hawk HPS Pads, type 200
also think about the brass bushings to add to whatever route I go.
Any help would on what I should do would be great. I guess I am not very sure on the impact of rear brakes.
Stock rotors (zinc plated) front and back and Hawk HPS street pads front and rear. ATE brake fluid.
ATE Slotted rotors are more cosmetic as would be Brembo Slotted rotors.
Drilled rotors aren't good except for looks, micro cracks can happen even with street use or any heat.
Don't turn the rotors, it's not worth it and rotors are fairly cheap to replace at about 40,000 miles or so.
Brass bushings or SS brake lines are totally optional, you'll probably be fine.
#3
#4
![](http://www.mazda6tech.com/images/brake/crackedrotor.jpg)
1. Less than 100%, nothing is certain but it is a common problem with any drilled rotors. I'd suggest slotted over drilled if you don't want plain rotors which are functional and less expensive.
2. Normal street driving. Worse if you have long or steep hills, do any performance driving or driving school, track or autocross. Doesn't even need heavy use though it would be worse with towing. Weather is not a factor. Anything that generates severe heat would be a problem.
3. Length of time? About 1 to 2 years, mostly in the front. Faster if you track your car.
4. How do I know? I've had drilled rotors with cracks in many holes on both front rotors with basically street driving less than one year. Not failure but not something I was willing to keep for doing track lapping sessions (2 sessions of 15 minutes each per event). Rear drilled rotors did fine. I bought the drilled rotors for looks. I was told they came cast that way and were not drilled out.
5. I put on cryo treated Powerslot rotors that are supposed to be tougher due to cryo treatment and they have been OK. There are also cryo treated plain rotors, a better value and functional.
If you really like the appearance and do only basic street driving or car shows then slotted and drilled or drilled rotors can be dressy. A big brake kit can also serve that role. Big brakes aren't really needed for street driving.
Read more about brakes-
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?...d=19&Itemid=50
Last edited by minihune; 03-17-2008 at 02:30 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
molala
MINIs & Minis for Sale
1
10-02-2015 01:53 PM
Tinklespout
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
16
09-06-2015 11:39 AM
PelicanParts.com
Tires, Wheels & Brakes
0
09-03-2015 03:22 PM