Driving off the rims?
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#3
no, it's real. there are some great pics of cars on the track where the wheel is pulling on the sidewall almost to the point of the bead coming off. I did a few searches for that but came up empty. I'm sure someone will post a pic for you.
Suffice it to say, there's no issue with OEM tires...they'll lose grip before pulling off the rim. I have seen a flat on the auto-x course when a car spun...the bead became unseated and instant loss of pressure.
Suffice it to say, there's no issue with OEM tires...they'll lose grip before pulling off the rim. I have seen a flat on the auto-x course when a car spun...the bead became unseated and instant loss of pressure.
#4
I have seen this happen 10 feet from me at a autocross. The case was too much Hoosier tire squeezed into a stock 5" rim. Stock suspension and shock...novice driver.
The tire cam off the rim from the unbelievably bad corning technique resulting in the rim touching the ash fault and flipping the car.
The tire cam off the rim from the unbelievably bad corning technique resulting in the rim touching the ash fault and flipping the car.
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I can't find the picture online either. I know there's a good one in one of Carrol Smith's books where it shows the Lotus 72 in a corner. The tire is distorted like crazy. I'll try to post the pic later.
#12
If you use stock rims and stock sized tires you will be fine. Correct tire pressure and correct passenger load is required.
If you change tire size or rim size and do things that are over the limit of design and drive at speeds that are obviously excessive under track conditions then yes you can cause a poor fit to get worse resulting in loss of the tire rim connection.
In a small way this happens frequently and results in tire pressure loss, usually a drop of a few psi, not severe but possible. Sometimes this happens with newly mounted tires and some lubricant is left on the rim edge that helped to mount the tires. This usually is cleaned off or wears off pretty fast.
I have done a fair amount of performance driving under extreme conditions with many sized wheels and tires and have never had any problem at all. You must pay attention to tire pressures with each run or session.
I have attended about 70 autocross and track events over the last 5 years and have never seen any incident where a tire and rim separated.
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Rims are BBS R90 17x7
Tires- (from tsrennsport site)
Race tires are supplied by Dunlop and consist of a slick for dry conditions (Dunlop slick 864; size, 205/620 R17) and a rain tire (Dunlop CR9000; size,205/620 R17) for the wet. These race tires require a tube due to the extreme stress of cornering physics involved in racing conditions.
Which track?
How much HP in your MCS (with full JCW tuning kit) ?
You have two on your team? #2 and ?
Yet another MINI Challenge Club Sport MCS-
Last edited by minihune; 04-18-2008 at 10:44 AM.
#18
Nice picture.
Rims are BBS R90 17x7
Tires- (from tsrennsport site)
Race tires are supplied by Dunlop and consist of a slick for dry conditions (Dunlop slick 864; size, 205/620 R17) and a rain tire (Dunlop CR9000; size,205/620 R17) for the wet. These race tires require a tube due to the extreme stress of cornering physics involved in racing conditions.
Which track?
How much HP in your MCS (with full JCW tuning kit) ?
You have two on your team? #2 and ?
Rims are BBS R90 17x7
Tires- (from tsrennsport site)
Race tires are supplied by Dunlop and consist of a slick for dry conditions (Dunlop slick 864; size, 205/620 R17) and a rain tire (Dunlop CR9000; size,205/620 R17) for the wet. These race tires require a tube due to the extreme stress of cornering physics involved in racing conditions.
Which track?
How much HP in your MCS (with full JCW tuning kit) ?
You have two on your team? #2 and ?
I just have a few JCW bits on my MCS, mostly driver handicapped.
Only me, mine is actually #78.
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