torque or not to torque...that is da question
#1
Hey all,
I finally got my new black lug bolts for my new rims.
They cost $2 /each...(which was reasonable as I had quotes as high as $6/each)
Well here's my question.....
I'm a bit lazy...as those who know me well already know...but I'm energetic enough today to swap in all my new black lug bolts...
I looked up the torque numbers for the wheels and it's 90 ft lbs. (120 +/-10 NM for those who are into this stuff :smile
Here's my delima ...
I don't own a torque wrench... (my best guess searchin the net is that they are about $150 for a decent one)
Do I really need to torque these new wheels ?????
I'm listen'n
Peace,
D
I finally got my new black lug bolts for my new rims.
They cost $2 /each...(which was reasonable as I had quotes as high as $6/each)
Well here's my question.....
I'm a bit lazy...as those who know me well already know...but I'm energetic enough today to swap in all my new black lug bolts...
I looked up the torque numbers for the wheels and it's 90 ft lbs. (120 +/-10 NM for those who are into this stuff :smile
Here's my delima ...
I don't own a torque wrench... (my best guess searchin the net is that they are about $150 for a decent one)
Do I really need to torque these new wheels ?????
I'm listen'n
Peace,
D
#2
YES!!!! ... Having even torque on the lugs ensures your wheels stay on the car.... you don't need a fancy torque wrench... an old fashoned needle style one from sears will work fine... also note most tire shops do not properly torque wheels so one should check them after a shop messes with your car... unless you have alot of trust with your tire place...
#3
#4
>>Well, even torque is not what's keeping the wheel on the car, it's the bolt. I've never torque wheels down, most likely never will. Just go until it's solid, but not gorilla'd.
>>
>>R
However uneven torque values WILL contribute to warping rotors, so use a torque wrench!!!
Also, it's standard practice in the industry to advise that the lugs on aluminum wheels are to be re-torqued after 500 miles (but obviously, few do it, cause they don't bring it back to the shop 500 miles after a service).
>>
>>R
However uneven torque values WILL contribute to warping rotors, so use a torque wrench!!!
Also, it's standard practice in the industry to advise that the lugs on aluminum wheels are to be re-torqued after 500 miles (but obviously, few do it, cause they don't bring it back to the shop 500 miles after a service).
#7
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#8
I just don't understand the 90 ft lbs....I regularly autocross on Hoosiers, so I'm constantly switching wheels/tires out. I torque with my wrench to 75 ft lbs. I've NEVER had a problem at anytime with loose lugs.
Before that I torqued to 80 ft lbs and had hell with the elbows loosening the lugs and also saw lots of accelerated wear on the lug nut shoulders.
Not sure what anyone else does, but 75 has worked great for me.
NutandBoltsAugs
Before that I torqued to 80 ft lbs and had hell with the elbows loosening the lugs and also saw lots of accelerated wear on the lug nut shoulders.
Not sure what anyone else does, but 75 has worked great for me.
NutandBoltsAugs
#10
>>D,
>>
>>You MUST torque. Failure to do so could result in warped rotors, lost wheels, etc. Go to Sears and get a good torque wrench, with at least 100 lb/ft capacity.
>>
Agreed with all especially getting GOOD torque wrench from Sears. As opposed to the BAD torque wrench that I got from them that almost caused me to lose a wheel on the track one day.
>>
>>You MUST torque. Failure to do so could result in warped rotors, lost wheels, etc. Go to Sears and get a good torque wrench, with at least 100 lb/ft capacity.
>>
Agreed with all especially getting GOOD torque wrench from Sears. As opposed to the BAD torque wrench that I got from them that almost caused me to lose a wheel on the track one day.
#11
>> $29.95 Plus $5 in shipping. I picked one up rather than pay $85 to recalibrate my Snap-On.
Alex,
You "beat me to the punch" on this one. I saw the first post in the thread and remembered about the one I saw on you web-store. On my next purchase, I'm going to get one from you guys.
Dominic
Alex,
You "beat me to the punch" on this one. I saw the first post in the thread and remembered about the one I saw on you web-store. On my next purchase, I'm going to get one from you guys.
Dominic
#12
sears also has a 75ft/lb one for about $20 dollars.
i also think 90ft/lbs is too much, i think 75-80 is about right and that's what I torque mine too.
after using a torque wrench a few times you'll get an idea of how much is "enough" and you'll be able to do it without one. but it's nice to double check with a torque wrench.
i also think 90ft/lbs is too much, i think 75-80 is about right and that's what I torque mine too.
after using a torque wrench a few times you'll get an idea of how much is "enough" and you'll be able to do it without one. but it's nice to double check with a torque wrench.
#20
#22
Hey D,
Plenty of good advice above regarding torque wrenches, and you should get one. But in a pinch, it is worth noting that auto manufacturers by necessity have to design the lug wrench that is included in the jack kit with their cars to remove a properly torqued wheel. That means the wrench is usually just long enough for the average size/strength driver to apply 125-150% of rated lug torque (in order to break a lug loose). So if you are stranded, without a torque wrench handy, a good approximation is to use the factory lug wrench and apply a good amount of force on it, but not "everything you got". Obviously this isn't going to reliably get you to within a couple lb-ft of rated torque, but it's better than cranking on them with that four-foot X lug wrench from the autoparts store or relying on the tire monkey at the local rubber house; and it will get you home without losing a wheel or distorting brake rotors. Oh, and don't put that three-foot piece of water pipe on the end of that factory lug wrench, that just defeats the purpose.
Cheers,
James
Plenty of good advice above regarding torque wrenches, and you should get one. But in a pinch, it is worth noting that auto manufacturers by necessity have to design the lug wrench that is included in the jack kit with their cars to remove a properly torqued wheel. That means the wrench is usually just long enough for the average size/strength driver to apply 125-150% of rated lug torque (in order to break a lug loose). So if you are stranded, without a torque wrench handy, a good approximation is to use the factory lug wrench and apply a good amount of force on it, but not "everything you got". Obviously this isn't going to reliably get you to within a couple lb-ft of rated torque, but it's better than cranking on them with that four-foot X lug wrench from the autoparts store or relying on the tire monkey at the local rubber house; and it will get you home without losing a wheel or distorting brake rotors. Oh, and don't put that three-foot piece of water pipe on the end of that factory lug wrench, that just defeats the purpose.
Cheers,
James
#23
#24
Well thanks all !!!!!!
I appreciate all the input :smile:
I bought the torque wrench from Alex @tirerack...
(I got it in a day...terrific.)
I researched the exact torque setting and it's..... 120 +/- 10 nm
120 x .7376=88.512 ft lbs :smile:
I torqued my wheels to 90 ft lbs.
Peace,
D
_________________
I own a 2002 MCS w/ alot of stuff on it.
I appreciate all the input :smile:
I bought the torque wrench from Alex @tirerack...
(I got it in a day...terrific.)
I researched the exact torque setting and it's..... 120 +/- 10 nm
120 x .7376=88.512 ft lbs :smile:
I torqued my wheels to 90 ft lbs.
Peace,
D
_________________
I own a 2002 MCS w/ alot of stuff on it.