OEM to Carbotech Pads: Rotors Need Resurfacing?
#1
OEM to Carbotech Pads: Rotors Need Resurfacing?
I am seriously considering a change to Carbotech Bobcat pads to alleviate the relentless dust given off by the OEM pads on my 07 MCS. I read somewhere in the Carbotech literature that the manufacturer strongly recommends that the rotors be resurfaced prior to bedding in the Carbotech pads.
Is this really necessary? If so, it makes a simple pad change into much more of a project.
Have others successfully changed to Carbotech pads without having to turn rotors?
Is this really necessary? If so, it makes a simple pad change into much more of a project.
Have others successfully changed to Carbotech pads without having to turn rotors?
#2
You can really do as you please but the general consensus is any time pads are replaced, rotors should be either cut or in a perfect world, replaced. Getting rotors cut doesn't take more than the time to remove them and 20 minutes for a NAPA or machine shop to turn them on a lathe. It'll probably cost $20/piece. Just an FYI, I know a lot of European OEM's don't cut rotors, they replace only. I'm not sure how MINI is at the dealer.
#3
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Carbotech dealer here to address the question.
Due the Bobcat compound it's harder for it to break thru the corrupted layer that the OEM pad leaves behind. It's also a matter of miles. If the rotors have less then 10K of normal driving you may be OK.
Like Hemi says, it's easy to get them cut at local NAPA just to have the best setup. But do not take too much off, just a very thin layer.
Most MINI dealers replace rotors with pads, that's how MINI designed it to work.
Due the Bobcat compound it's harder for it to break thru the corrupted layer that the OEM pad leaves behind. It's also a matter of miles. If the rotors have less then 10K of normal driving you may be OK.
Like Hemi says, it's easy to get them cut at local NAPA just to have the best setup. But do not take too much off, just a very thin layer.
Most MINI dealers replace rotors with pads, that's how MINI designed it to work.
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Great question, The XP pads are much tougher then the other CT pads and will break the bad layer in just a few laps. Most XP drivers run the AX or Bobcats off track to prolong rotor life and overall pad life of the XP's too. Some NON-daily drive MINI's run XP pads 100% of the time. The fav combo is XP10 front and XP8 in the rears. The rears are left in all the time.
#7
MORE CT INFO
I concur with autox, my experience with the Bobcat, get them turned or replace the rotors all together. The Bobcat isn't aggressive enough of a compound to work its way through the old pad material on the rotor. The braking was actually worse until I replaced the rotors. (The below mentioned process did not work.) The AX6 and Xp8 are much more aggressive and will eventually get through the old material. Suggestion, take a sander and 80 grit sandpaper and go over the rotors before putting on the AX6 or XP8's, this will help remove a lot of the old pad material and get you closer to having the rotors "clean", spray off with brake clean after sanding. Bed in the pads and enjoy!
FYI, I have discovered recently that the XP8 on a '07 MCS works better as a daily driver than the AX6, not as much cold bite, but less noise and dust than the AX6. I save the AX6 for auto X. Use anti-squeal gel on the back of the pads on installation and it all but eliminates any squealing.
FYI, I have discovered recently that the XP8 on a '07 MCS works better as a daily driver than the AX6, not as much cold bite, but less noise and dust than the AX6. I save the AX6 for auto X. Use anti-squeal gel on the back of the pads on installation and it all but eliminates any squealing.
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#9
Can you have slotted rotors turned/re-surfaced?
Can you re-surface the rotor with a RO sander and some fine grit sandpaper?
Any form of sanding will not acuratly true the rotor - for instance if you have that 33 style record grooving.
The advanage of a turning on a lathe is that a completely flat and true surface can be achieved, witch a orbital can't .
#10
Rotor resurface
Alex is right. Only turning will make the rotor true again. The sander will only remove some of the pad material. I would not recommend turning cross drilled rotors. You could have slotted rotors done. You don't need much of a turn either. A "skimming" with a fine turn is best. If your garage says they cant do a fine turn their lying, they just don't want to slow the machine down because it takes longer to do it. If that is the case I would find a new garage or parts place. The fine turn makes it like new again. A rough cut actually creates small holes that can get filled with pad material that can lead to other problems. It also wears out your expensive pads faster. Thats always bad.
#12
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