I've read a number of threads on how to jack all 4 wheels using a 38" long 2x4. There seems to be some confusion (even with some really helpful photos posted) for us guys with the JCW aero kits. The instruction is to position the 2x4 board "between the front and rear jacking points" and jack the board up. My question is, do you place the board on the plastic sill itself, or about 2" inboard on the plastic covered weld seam? Trying it first on the sill, as I was jacking, it looked like the aero kit was going to crack. Moving the board inboard on the covered weld seam, the board kept turning out as the jack lifted up, as the weld seam is only about 1/8" thick and you're trying to balance it on the board. Any recommendations here? Also, I'm using some basic Sears jack stands. Should I position one end of the "u" of the stand inside the jack point (and if so, facing which way?), or have the jack point pad rest in the "U"?
I'm doing this to paint the calipers. Am I better off just doing one wheel at a time (requiring me to divide the paint into four dixie cups, adding the hardener to each as I'm ready for the next wheel), just using a basic jack one at a time?

 

I wouldn't recommend the 2x4 method for the aero kit... you ARE likely to break it... you can jack on the front jack points, and place one stand under the rear jack point and another stand under the unibody about a foot inside the front jack point - or vice-versa.

You *can* use the 2x4 method, but put the board under the main unibody channel running down the length of the car, to the inside of the weld seam you mention. I personally wouldn't try to jack it on the seam, even though I've heard that some folks do.


I put the jack point "inside" the "U" on the jackstand - works fine, even if it doesn't sit flat.

I would definitely paint all four at once if using the G2 kit as it sounds like you are... just be sure to wait overnight before re-installing the caliper springs and wheels.

 

yah, definitely dont jackup on the sidesill it will crack.

i use the verticle railing about 5-6 inches towards
the middle of the car from the sidesills. you can
raise the car on the plastic if you have a flat platform
hydraulic or use that wood to sandwich.

btw, my car is a R53.

 

See post #10 in this thread
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ck-stands.html

This method may take a couple of minutes longer but I am jacking only on the jacking points. It is a very secure method.
Steve

 

I saw Randy Webb lift so many Minis by the vertical welded joint between the jack points that I am convinced it is OK. I have been doing it myself for 3+ years without any problems at all. I only use a small 6" piece of maple over the jack head these days. If that vertical joint cannot take half the weight of the car, then we are all facing much more serious problems than dirty wheels and ugly brake calipers, trust me.
The 4x4x48 method sounds like a PITA to me...

 

DrPhilGandini
I am not sure if you know what the underside of a GP looks like! I have nothing but plastic between my jacking points with the underbody paneling covering the vertical welded joint. I am not sure if the aero kits do the same or not. I am sure if I used your method on my car it would end in disaster. To me it is well worth a few extra minutes to jack the car up from where it was designed.
Steve

 

I'm sure you're right, The Itch! With regular Minis outnumbering GPs by about 100 to 1, there might emerge a "customary method" that works for the vast majority. After trying many different methods, I found jacking by the jack points created problems when it came time to locate the jack stands. I never lift my car and work under it without it being on either 2 (front or rear) or 4 jack stands--even to change wheelsets.
But, my intention is not to argue with you. Lift the car any way you want. I was simply sharing my experience, including what I know of Randy Webb's experience.

 

mine has all the underbody plastic... i used the 2X4 method a few times now... no cracking or anything...

I just put it under the sill, up against the little (im guessing pinch weld) thing that sticks down another inch or so

something like this ( sorry the comp im on has no CAD or PS lol ) Green is the big underbody panels, and blue is the sill plastic and door...Red's the 2X4..

the plastic does bow up and touch the door a bit, because it turns down sorta like that, but its nothing bad...