Hi.

I'm doing the rear pads on my '03 MCS this weekend.

Thought I might get a MightyVac one-man bleed tool and do the brake fluid replacement while I'm there.

Is there any special procedure for doing this on the MCS?

Mike.

 

recommended sequence is

rt rear
lft rear
rt front
lft front

 

Thanks.
The rear pad swap out went well.

My Bentely book confirms your bleed order.

The book also talks about plugging in the code scanner and going into the ABS menu to switch it to service mode. Any clue on why this is there?

I went ahead and tried using a MightyVac one-man bleed device. Tried the right rear (furthest from the master cylinder). Got a good vacuum on the tool, then opened the bleed valve just little. Started loosing vacuum but no brake fluid came out. Opened valve a tad more...still no fluid. Going even further the vacuum was just about gone so started pumping the tool to get more. Eventually I got a very little bit of brake fluid out after opening nearly 1/2 turn on the valve. Since I couldn't keep the vacuum going more than a few seconds at this position had to quickly close the valve back.

I thought these things were suppsed to make this job a breeze. Am I doing something wrong?

I don't have a code scanner, could it have to do wit the abs menu mode?...am I outta luck?

Mike.

 

Sorry, I don't know why the MightyVAc is not working for you. If you don't have an assistant, just open the bleeder and let gravity drain the fluid, it takes more time but it does a good job, just don't let the fluid level in the reservoir drop too low. Here is another one-man method http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/foru...read.php?t=476

 

You did undo the cap for the brake fluid reservoir?

Alan

 

yep, that's my question too assuming you know you have good vac' with the MV. Mine pulls fluid like the devil.... Altho the cap is vented the vent is small so I loosen the cap - but I don't remove it completely as BF will absorb water too....

 

Yes, I did loosen the brake reservoir cap prior to opening the valve.

I'm thinking my MityVac connector to the valve was not a tight enough fit. Perhaps the fittings supplied were for bigger sized valves. There was just too much vacuum leakage to put much suction on the brake fluid...might also need to openth te valve further...but the leakage only got much faster as I went a little past 1/4 turn.

Mike.

 

I have had a lot of luck using a pressure bleeder. Motive Products makes a very nice system that sells for around $50.00 on-line. Vacuum systems will tend to draw air around the loosened bleeder screw seat, which shows up as air bubbles in the drain line. With the pressure units, you fill the bleeder reservoir with 1 qt. of brake fluid, pump up the unit to 15 psi with the hand pump, then loosen the bleeder screws in the order mentioned above. You can flush the whole system in very short order. Since the system is under pressure, the chance of drawing air back into the lines is negligable.

I have used this system on two different cars, my '04 MCS and my wife's '97 Mercury Villager. The Villager had a mushy brake pedal for a long time until I flushed the system with the power bleeder. Now pedal feel is much better.

 

Thanks...I've heard of these systems and even seen a write-up somewhere on this board about a home-made pressure bleeder.
I'll look into it.

Mike.

 

+1 for the Motive Bleeder... love mine.

 

All I've ever used. And for about $20.

 

You could conceivably create one with a garden variety tank sprayer, that is assuming the brake fluid doesn't react with the plastic, which given the nature of what is usually in those probably wouldn't be a problem.

I would just as soon be patient (and cheap) and do a gravity bleed.