So in my search for a BBK that fits both my summer and winter set up, I've found none. :P So how hard is it to switch out the BBK to stock and back again seasonally? I'm going from 15" winter set up to 17" summer set. Do I have to switch out the rotors as well? Anyone able to post a summary of steps and estimate of installation time would be much appreciated(basically something like remove wheels, bleed brakes, remove calipers, remove rotors, etc.).

The way I see it, I'll be raising the Mini up for the winter and lowering for the summer, not to mention removing the carbon fiber splitter for the winter, so why not switch out BBK's/rotors when switching out wheels. I actually installed the splitter a few weeks ago and I've "plowed" some snow here in WI on a few occasions, and the Mini isn't even lowered much(heck there's still wheel gap!)

 

I've not done a full brake replacement, but I can tell you that you'll definitely have to swap out the rotors. It'd probably be worth your while to just go ahead and get a second set of 17's for the winter as well. Maybe just some el cheapo S Lites from the marketplace with a decent set of tires. It's not like you'd have to get them right away at this point.

 

TSW BDM BBK fits under 15" wheels
http://www.txwerks.com/servlet/Detail?no=132

 

I accept that you probably don't want to change to 16" setup for winter but I've been successfully running TCE Wildwood 11.75" setup under stock 16" wheels with Dunlop M3 Snow Tires. Worth a thought and to me less grief than having to swap calipers and rotors twice a year. This setup will also barely fit under some 15" wheels. I run them under my Kosei 15" K1 track wheels.

 

To answer your question...and regarding the other work you plan on doing seasonally. Yes. The BBK would be as simple as removing the caliper/rotor, then bleeding the system. Honestly I'd say it would only add an extra hour or so to your normal seasonal switch.

A lot of the time when you do your first install is spent grinding the stock caliper attachment and figuring out how much you need in shims. Once that is done, its a piece of cake.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.

MZero: When you say add an hour, is that for both front and rear?

Tder: I believe Todd at TCE informed me that the stock 15" wheels will not clear the 11.75" setup. However, if I can find cheap 15" wheels that do fit that set up, that might be an easier option. What specs must the 15" wheel be to clear?

 

Email TSW and ask them what 15" wheel they run

 

Given the desire to bounce between both 15s and 17s this one's going to be full of compromises. Not sure which way is which but here are some random thoughts:

When running the 15s you'll be pretty much limited to the couple of 11.75" kit options or one of my caliper kits for an oe rotor. There's simply not enough room in those to put larger diameter kits. This can lead to track day use issues with regard to the rotors thermal capacity due to lack of mass. Yes, both myself and others produce a beefier version of such small kits but they will both require additional wheel clearance that may not be there now or a need for spacers to clear. If you're running the 15s in the winter time then the stock parts will fit just fine.

For the larger 17s you'll clearly want to move to at least a 12.2" or better kit to maximize the value of rotor torque, mass, pad size and compound options. Some of these things are strained a bit in the smaller kits so if you have the opportunity for on a few bucks more it's probably money well spent. Here however you'll need to be ready to do the entire winter time swap as none of that will clear a 15 in any way. Not a real big deal but it will include everything from calipers and rotors to hoses as well. With bleeding you best figure on a couple of hours of work.

Keep in mind that tires aside there is really nothing preventing you from running these kits year round. There are some who feel on the dust booted caliper is ideal for such use so in that case the DP caliper is your best option for a smaller kit. And if desired a dust booted BSL4 could be fit to a 13" kit. But in reality I don't think you'd find the money well spent on that- the FSL caliper (or ss piston DP or other brands non booted products) don't fall apart in foul weather. While they may not be as long term stable for 5-10yrs of service without attention the replacement costs are very low and repair parts inexpensive too. I do occasoinally get a call for a replacement from a kit sold in 1997 or such and the two new calipers are cheaper than the hassles of repaing them...so don't fret off season use of any of these.

For clearance of a 11.75 the pdf will help:
http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/ds492.pdf

 

Hour for the front, I typically assume people don't get BBKs on the rear.

Its just two bolts holding the caliper bracket on. Then you may or may not have to swap the lines...but either way though you still only have to disconnect the line in one place. It may also make it easier to pull the pads out of the BBK which takes 2 min per side, if even that long.

Figure undo one bolt and pull the pads out, undo two more bolts and the caliper is free. If you are going back to stock lines, make sure the line is connected to your stock caliper. Undo the brake line and then quickly reattach the stock line (that is attached to caliper) to keep from making a mess. Now pull the rotor off...which will have already fallen off if you don't have wheel studs. Then put your stock rotor on and start bolting up the stock caliper. 4 bolts, two for the caliper bracket, two for the caliper.

Bleeding would take the longest...and it will take you longer than an hour the first time. But once you've done it once, I'm sure you can do it fairly quickly after that. Reading your first post you say you raise and lower the car between seasons, I assume that means with lowering springs or a set of coilovers. With the work involved in doing that, the brakes are a piece of cake.