Brake Pad/Rotor install woes
#1
Brake Pad/Rotor install woes
So my Mini was in need of new brakes (46K miles currently) and I bought new pads and rotors as well to install (and of course the sensors). I didn't have all the needed tools at my house yet (just moved a couple months back) and had an offer from a board member to help me, and a friend of mine as well. After reading the write-ups, I figured it wouldn't be too hard. I made arrangements to get the tools I needed, and last night I put the Mini on jack stands and began.
1st Problem, the wheels were a major PITA to remove! Jeez they were really stuck on there, but I eventually got them loose.
I removed the 17MM bolts, and the first part of the brakes came loose, and I called it a night.
Today, first thing, I hit my first snag.
I CAN'T GET THE DARN TORX bolt out! It completely rounded off on one, the others won't budge (and I'm afraid of rounding them off as well). They've soaked in PB and WD-40...to no avail. I guess the one I'm going to have to drill out (any tips on that? It looks like the bolt is tapered so much fun, geez). There has got to be an easier way! I've changed the complete brake system on my two previous cars and never had any of these troubles (a mustang GT and a mustang Cobra).
Anyhow, anymore tips?
Oh, and wish me luck! I'm going to try this all again tomorrow night, sheesh. This is too much like work haha
1st Problem, the wheels were a major PITA to remove! Jeez they were really stuck on there, but I eventually got them loose.
I removed the 17MM bolts, and the first part of the brakes came loose, and I called it a night.
Today, first thing, I hit my first snag.
I CAN'T GET THE DARN TORX bolt out! It completely rounded off on one, the others won't budge (and I'm afraid of rounding them off as well). They've soaked in PB and WD-40...to no avail. I guess the one I'm going to have to drill out (any tips on that? It looks like the bolt is tapered so much fun, geez). There has got to be an easier way! I've changed the complete brake system on my two previous cars and never had any of these troubles (a mustang GT and a mustang Cobra).
Anyhow, anymore tips?
Oh, and wish me luck! I'm going to try this all again tomorrow night, sheesh. This is too much like work haha
Last edited by Liquid; 04-30-2009 at 05:34 PM.
#2
#3
No, I think he means the single Torx screw that accomplishes nothing other than holds the rotor flat against the hub; superfluous once the caliper bracket is in place and the wheel lugs are secured. They are notoriously difficult to remove if they have not been disturbed for a few years. Thats why you should get in the habit of removing them occasionally, even if no work on your brakes is indicated at the time.
#4
#5
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The torx convention is pretty annoying. Seems somewhat intentional to make you take the car to the dealer. The issue with those things is they arent a high torque but they happen to be bolting cast iron which loves to rust them in place. What you need is an impact driver. Here is one from Sears, just the first link that came up. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P
That stupid screw is getting to be a convention on all cars in one form or another (phillips is more common) so its not a bad idea to just buy one if you plan to do car maintence for a while longer. The major issue here is you are supposed to use higher than average quality tool steel, and I havent looked around but the torx may by annoying to find in that. Lower quality and you risk just breaking the bit.
This method doesnt make it easy, you will have to wail on it with a hammer, but its the way to deal with that stupid thing.
That stupid screw is getting to be a convention on all cars in one form or another (phillips is more common) so its not a bad idea to just buy one if you plan to do car maintence for a while longer. The major issue here is you are supposed to use higher than average quality tool steel, and I havent looked around but the torx may by annoying to find in that. Lower quality and you risk just breaking the bit.
This method doesnt make it easy, you will have to wail on it with a hammer, but its the way to deal with that stupid thing.
#6
#7
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#9
No, I think he means the single Torx screw that accomplishes nothing other than holds the rotor flat against the hub; superfluous once the caliper bracket is in place and the wheel lugs are secured. They are notoriously difficult to remove if they have not been disturbed for a few years. Thats why you should get in the habit of removing them occasionally, even if no work on your brakes is indicated at the time.
#10
#12
Thanks for all the info guys, wish I had known about the impact driver sooner, might of saved me a lot of trouble! Still though, thanks for ALL your help, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!
#14
Thanks again to all those who commented. I had to drill out the bolts on both front wheels, which wasn't fun but with a drill and a little pressure, they both came off. Got the new rotors and pads all put on this morning and she's doing great! Stopping power feels MUCH better!
Thanks again everyone!
Thanks again everyone!
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