stuck rotor screw issue
#1
03-22-2010 | 09:15 PM
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From: NW of Chicago
stuck rotor screw issue
First time post. Have a 06 standard mini. I am doing a front brake job and the torx screw that holds the rotor is stuck.
I have searched the forum and found good advice on doing the break job so far
I found this thread but no one has had a real tight one. no pun intended
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-removal.html
Car has 38k on the odometer, and it is its first brake job
So far I have:
1, used penetrating oil.
2, Used a impact driver with the proper torx drive T50 & used 5 pound hammer
I have not broken out the torches YET
I assume they are RIGHT hand threads
Open to suggestions
Thanks in advance for your help
Mike G
Fox Lake IL
I have searched the forum and found good advice on doing the break job so far
I found this thread but no one has had a real tight one. no pun intended
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-removal.html
Car has 38k on the odometer, and it is its first brake job
So far I have:
1, used penetrating oil.
2, Used a impact driver with the proper torx drive T50 & used 5 pound hammer
I have not broken out the torches YET
I assume they are RIGHT hand threads
Open to suggestions
Thanks in advance for your help
Mike G
Fox Lake IL
#3
03-22-2010 | 09:27 PM
, and will not screw out past the bad spot. Unless you dress the bad spot from behind ,you will need to drill it out. They don't drill hard. I bought SS replacements at Ace Hardware.
#4
03-23-2010 | 06:17 AM
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: NW of Chicago
fixes
Today is a new day. Going to get that PB power blaster from the autozone by my house.
I did after I posted found a bunch of other threads on the matter.
I like the idea of dremeling the head. that will relieve the pressure to some extent and allow a path for the penetrating oil.
Silly part is this is not my first brake job nor my first stuck screw. I just was figuring it would be a 1 hour job at a leisurely pace.
On my 79 Ford Fiesta, it had the shortest lasting brakes known to man. I got so good at changing them I could do it in 20 min both sides!
Thanks I will report the out come.
Cheers have a great day
Mike G
Fox Lake
I did after I posted found a bunch of other threads on the matter.
I like the idea of dremeling the head. that will relieve the pressure to some extent and allow a path for the penetrating oil.
Silly part is this is not my first brake job nor my first stuck screw. I just was figuring it would be a 1 hour job at a leisurely pace.
On my 79 Ford Fiesta, it had the shortest lasting brakes known to man. I got so good at changing them I could do it in 20 min both sides!
Thanks I will report the out come.
Cheers have a great day
Mike G
Fox Lake
#5
03-23-2010 | 08:21 AM
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 16
From: Under your car
Dremeling the head will not make extraction easier. Your only chance is to heat it with a torch, and then use a 1/2 inch impact gun on a really low setting. The problem is probably not that there's a burr on the back side of the threads, it's more likely that the bolt is just rusted to the hub. Not to worry: even if the head breaks off the bolt, you can either drill it out or do nothing: once the bolt head is broken off, the rotor will pop off without problem. You then can install your new rotor without a bolt. It will be harder to line up the lug bolts when attaching the wheel, but once the lug bolts are tightened, all is well. The small rotor bolt is only to hold the rotor in place to more easily line up the lug bolts. Once the lug bolts are attached and torqued, they are the fasteners that take the load of braking.
#7
03-23-2010 | 02:27 PM
6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,343
Likes: 3
From: South Bend Indiana
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#8
03-23-2010 | 02:35 PM
Drill the stupid thing out and never use it again. Problem solved. Chalk it up to a design BMW can't get right in all their years. The Bimmer guys have the same problem going back through the years.
If you decide you really want to keep using it, get the torch out. Get yourself some silver anti-seize grease and mildly coat the new set-screw. Anti-seize is your friend with that set-screw, otherwise plan on torching/cutting/swearing every time you change rotors.
If you decide you really want to keep using it, get the torch out. Get yourself some silver anti-seize grease and mildly coat the new set-screw. Anti-seize is your friend with that set-screw, otherwise plan on torching/cutting/swearing every time you change rotors.
#9
03-23-2010 | 02:46 PM
5th Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Hillsboro Oregon
#10
03-23-2010 | 08:27 PM
I had the same problem with one of my rear rotors... Posted this in the "Rotor T50!" thread in the Problems forum:
Welp... Didn't need the Harbor Frieght tool and didn't need a drill extractor set. I got home from work and soaked the damn set screw in PB Blaster for about 3 hours, anchored a prybar between two lugs and the floor so the rotor wouln't move AND set the parking brake, heated the little sod up with a torch, and it STILL wouldn't budge. Actually it stripped. Brilliant.
So then I just took my Dremel and a carbon cutting wheel and cut into the bolt to make a horizontal groove thinking I could use the chisel method or a flat head + vice grips release the screw. That wasn't working. So I took the Dremel again and cut a vertical groove perpendicular to the first.I ended up getting the groove through the head and all the way to the shaft ("Thats what she said"). Grabbed the chisel and a 3lb hammer and started beating the ever loving hell out of this thing. I got one of the "quarters" of the bolt head to wiggle back and forth, think of it like when you take a paper clip and wiggle it till it snaps. Did that with all four parts of the head and the rotor came right off.
Yes I left the shaft in the hole ("That's.... yeah I'm making way these too easy) being that the set screw is superfilous once you get the wheels mounted, and since that damn screw just got me so cross I'd rather leave it ashamed and half a screw that send it to a hell at the bottom of a scrap heap.
Ok that was harsh. But, jobs done, beers had, and the mini is happy with new pads, rotors, and sensors all around
So then I just took my Dremel and a carbon cutting wheel and cut into the bolt to make a horizontal groove thinking I could use the chisel method or a flat head + vice grips release the screw. That wasn't working. So I took the Dremel again and cut a vertical groove perpendicular to the first.I ended up getting the groove through the head and all the way to the shaft ("Thats what she said"). Grabbed the chisel and a 3lb hammer and started beating the ever loving hell out of this thing. I got one of the "quarters" of the bolt head to wiggle back and forth, think of it like when you take a paper clip and wiggle it till it snaps. Did that with all four parts of the head and the rotor came right off.
Yes I left the shaft in the hole ("That's.... yeah I'm making way these too easy) being that the set screw is superfilous once you get the wheels mounted, and since that damn screw just got me so cross I'd rather leave it ashamed and half a screw that send it to a hell at the bottom of a scrap heap.
Ok that was harsh. But, jobs done, beers had, and the mini is happy with new pads, rotors, and sensors all around
#12
03-24-2010 | 05:55 AM
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From: NW of Chicago
The PB Blaster, drilling the center out of the screw, and the impact driver got it out. It was tight the whole way out.
Sad reality check I bought the wrong rotors. need the smaller ones 10-7/8" not the 11-1/2" ones.
Got the new sensor wire in. New rotors tonight and I will be good to go.
going to check the rears to see how they look then.
Sad reality check I bought the wrong rotors. need the smaller ones 10-7/8" not the 11-1/2" ones.
Got the new sensor wire in. New rotors tonight and I will be good to go.
going to check the rears to see how they look then.
#14
11-05-2015 | 07:23 AM
This with a t50 torx head. And PB baster around the screw bolt seams.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/PCS2800/
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/PCS2800/
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