Well ---- I have a 2007 Mini R56 hatchback...... I was checking the service indicators yesterday and it said I have 1000 miles left on the front brake pads (service indicator has not gone off yet).
I called the Mini dealer ---- they siad they could replace the pads, etc. --- Total would be $250 plus tax for the 2 front wheels!! Yikes!

So I was thinking --- Could I change the pads myself??
Now --- by no means an I a mechaninc, but I just finished changing the oil & filter on my mini + reset the computer..... I did alright with this job....

What ya think? ---- My questions are ----
1.)What are a good set of front brake pads to replace my OEM? --- My driving style is just "normal" day-to-day intersate commuting.... Nothing aggressive.

2.)Where to get best deal on pads?

3.)Do I need to replace the sensor wire, even though the warning didn't go off yet? ----- If so .... where to get one?

Any other "helpful" advice would be much appreciated --- like what anti-seize to use ---- INSTRUCTIONS --- etc??
Thanks for the help guys....
tj

 

Here is a link to Gen 2 How to change front brake pads that may help you decide if you wish to do it yourself.

http://www.motoringalliance.com/libr...ement-gen2-66/

I would call Texas Speed Works or Way Motor Works and discuss pads with a pro, both have good values on pads.

No need to replace sensors if they are still working.

 

It's really stupid they won't just be nice and replace them. It all comes down to money if ya know what I mean. I'm in the same boat as you right now.

I'm not waiting around am am probably going to upgrade my rotors and get real nice pads.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...073-post1.html

Here is a great post on changing the front pads, comes with pictures.
It is not a hard job but it is a dirty job. Just follow the directions step by step an you will be alright.
No need to change the sensor just detach and reattach to the new pad. You didn't say how many miles you put on those brakes (and rotors) but you should also think about changing the rotors also - or you might be able to get them resurfaced (cut).
When I last did my brakes I put on Hawk pads that I got from Tire Rack. Here is a link - http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...eet+brake+pads

The type of pads depends on what is important to you, how you drive, and what kind of stopping power you want. I was VERY happy with these.

 

first link appears to require 'alliance' membership

second link is to a good DIY for GEN1 pads. There are minor differences in the GEN2 so don't get hung up thinking something is wrong.

a) The GEN1 used an allen type bolt on the caliber bracket. The GEN2 is just a plain old metric bolt as I recall.

b) The GEN1 inner front pad had a spring clip that went into the caliber piston. GEN2 does not have this.

those are the two biggies I remember from changing my front pads as soon as I found EBC greens that fit; can't tell about any differences on the rears as I have not done them yet. The basics of the DIY are right on and actually will apply to just about any set of disk brakes.

You may also just want to get prices from some regular brake places. MINI isn't as unique as it once was and prices around $120 or so per axle for plain jane pads can be found . . . I've gone 2 sets of pads to a set of rotors my self and for others with no problems (street use only)

Are you out of pre-pay maintenance? I've a 7 and have a couple of months to go. I guess they won't replace for free cuz the sensor hasn't gone off? I'd eyeball the pads to see how worn they actually are. At 23,000 miles it looks like I have 50% of my fronts remaining (but true they are EBC)

 

After viewing the tutorials --- changing the front pads doesn't look too hard... 2 questions:

1.) Called my local O'Riley's (like an autozone) part store in town... They have front brake pads starting at $35 and going well over $100!! What do I look for in choosing?

2.) Where do you put the anti-seize when putting the new pads on? What surfaces get coated & will any brand of anti-seize work??

thanks
tj

 

I would not recommend the pads that o'Rileys or Autozone or pep boys etc carry.

Try the street version of Carbotech CT 1521, Hawks HPS, Ferrado, EBC green. You can get these mail order at tirerack.com or autoxcooper.com and many others. Perhaps some local stores around your area may have it. They will be a little more expensive but they will be lower dust and will stop the car well. Don't skimp on brake pads.

Generally, any brand of antiseize will work... Use it on the bolts, things that you have to remove later.

 

The link I referred to in my post will also tell you where you should put the lube on the brakes. Just be careful to NOT get any lube on the pads or rotor faces. You can pretty much pick any lube you want to, it's pretty cheap.

I think the Hawk brakes are great. I liked them so much on my fronts that I put the on the back when it came time to do that job. Just do your research once you understand your demands.

 

always good to get different opinions. for everyday driving I've found a mid range pad from AutoZone to be just fine.

Do not confuse anti-seize with brake lube

anti-seize is used on bolt threads to keep them from becomming frozen and its use is sometimes of concern when discussing torque values. Some feel the use of anti-seize where not specifically called for means you'll torque wrong. I'm not expressing an opinion on thet one.

brake Lubricant is a very high temperature grease and SHOULD be used on any brake pad replacement. Some pads even include the item in the box. Ask at any parts store and they probably have 'single dose' packets near the cash register. I can do an axle with a $1 packet usually. It goes anywhere you'l have metal to metal contact between the brake parts: pad tabs to the caliber housing, caliber piston to the pad back, caliber teeth to the pad back and sliding portion of the caliper bolts or sleeves. Maybe some use regular anti-seize for this, I don't. You can also buy it by the tube but I'd end up misplacing it so just grab a couple of packets with the pads.

 

There are 2 things you don't want to cheap out on for a car - tires and brakes. But you also need to buy the ones that fit your situation. Don't buy racing pads for the street. If you are not an agressive driver, stick with the factory stuff. I found that the Mini dealer price for rotors and pads resonable; not cheap but reasonable and you know they will work for a wide range of driving applications. If you are looking to upgrade, the sky seems to be the limit and you will need to do some research for what you need. As for the Hawk HPS on an R56, they were not as touchy as the stock pad which made them nice for daily driving (spirited) and autocross, easy to modulate and almost no dust compared to the stock pad. But, they did not work well for the track. While they didn't seem to fade out and wore really well, they took too much effort which made it difficult to drive smoothly. Changing rear pads is just like the front except that you will need a tool to screw in the piston; they don't compress with a C-clamp like the fronts. A really big screw driver works or the ends of pliers if you are careful. Lastly, DON'T PUT ANY GREASE OR ANYTHING ELSE ON THE FRICTION PART OF THE PADS OR THE ROTORS....that will cost you all of the parts you just bought. There is no fix for that except starting over with new parts. The grease goes on the back of the pad where it contacts the caliper or piston.

 

To answer your primary question, if you have the tools, you can change the pads. Its easy.

Mini rotors are soft and often the rotors will have a lip on them that is caused by wear. Run your finger across the surface from the center to the outside edge. if you feel a pronounced lip when you get to the edge, you will likely need new rotors. They come off with a couple of screws -- easy to pop them off and pop new ones back on.

 

Just FYI, my dealer (Albuquerque) quoted $600.

 

All rotors wear and develop a lip. By itself, that is not a reason to replace them.
You need to measure the remaining thickness of the rotor (usually stamped on the rotor itself). If it's within spec, you don't need to replace them (front 294X22 rotors are OK until 19mm, rear 259X10 rotors OK until 7mm, IIRC - check yours!). That is, unless you are prepping for a club race, in which case you already know all this.

There is no need to worry about the lip - it's the area that wasn't used by the old pad and likely wont be used by the new. Or the new pad will wear into the lip w/out undue excitement. "Machining" or "turning" the rotors is also unnecessary, and usually does more harm than good.

Lastly, if you haven't replaced your brake fluid in over 2-3 years (or you are planning to take the car to track this season), flush it as well. If you know how. If not, we can start another thread on that DIY project as well.

YMMV,
alex f

 

+1

Are you sure that there isn't a DIY thread already?

 

There are and here they are (front, rear, and bleeding) in the "how to" subforum:

The concept is similar for gen 1, gen 2 and jcw calipers although there may be some slight differences.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...beginners.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...beginners.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ed-how-to.html

and pelicanparts has a how-two that applies to R50/R52/R53//R55/R56/R57 models.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

 

Nice