What is up with Hawk HPS pads on the MINI?
#51
My comment was targeted to the poster using them as street pads in his Stoptechs. The comment not a track pad, I agreed with, and you can upgrade to a race formula for track days.
I am sorry the pads didn't work out well for you,
#52
#54
#55
#57
Got a call back. Checked the lines, checked the pads, checked the ABS module, did hard stops, ABS chattered, the system is fine, there is nothing wrong with it.
The pads are continuing to suck, especially in the morning when they are stone cold. Putting pressure on the pedal, all that seems to accomplish is get the pads to slide on the rotors, minimal grip.
The pads are continuing to suck, especially in the morning when they are stone cold. Putting pressure on the pedal, all that seems to accomplish is get the pads to slide on the rotors, minimal grip.
#58
Additional information. Now that I reflect back on all of this, I seem to be looking at this:
http://www.mini2.com/forum/wheels-ty...al-travel.html
I do not recall having had this problem before. Or rather, even if the pedal was down, the car still bit and would stop on a dime. The Hawks just drag.
This is what I meant when I said I can get the pedal to sink.
LE:
Who was this one guy on these forums? Come on, speak up :D
http://www.mini2.com/forum/wheels-ty...al-travel.html
[...] if you keep applying pressure to the pedal it keeps going down to the stop. If the engine is not running the pedal is high and rock solid
This is what I meant when I said I can get the pedal to sink.
LE:
One guy actually put his old OEM pads back in after his pedal travel increased when he fitted some 'performance' pads and his travel returned to normal!! i wonder if its a brake pad thing??
Last edited by fishbone; 06-20-2011 at 12:50 PM.
#60
#61
#62
#63
+ 1 On ATE TYP200
What I always use on any Euro car with a DOT 4 spec. Both wet and dry boiling points well above many other well known brands.
I use the Gold (normal light color) rather than the Blue, since the Blue is both a give away it's non-stock, plus apparently not DOT legal because of that blue color.
I use the Gold (normal light color) rather than the Blue, since the Blue is both a give away it's non-stock, plus apparently not DOT legal because of that blue color.
#64
As for the OP stating that the pedal went to the floor, that indicates a lot of air in the lines. The car should not be driven until that's addressed. Even with the worst biting pads out there, the pedal should not go to the floor. Not even close.
#65
I had HPS pads installed in my JCW. At the same time I had brand new JCW drilled rotors installed and the place that did the install bedded them in properly. (BR Racing in Los Gatos, CA) Bottom line is that they do NOT have the same "bite" as the stock pads. Period. What they do get you, though, is supreior hot performance.
As for the OP stating that the pedal went to the floor, that indicates a lot of air in the lines. The car should not be driven until that's addressed. Even with the worst biting pads out there, the pedal should not go to the floor. Not even close.
As for the OP stating that the pedal went to the floor, that indicates a lot of air in the lines. The car should not be driven until that's addressed. Even with the worst biting pads out there, the pedal should not go to the floor. Not even close.
Yes, the bite is different from OEM. I think the op is talking about no bite not less bite than OEM.
#67
Picked the car up yesterday, pedal feel improved somewhat but nothing groundbreaking. Not sure if it's due to valvoline being better than whatever they used at Meineke, or me having borderline boiled the brake fluid when hitting the brakes like a jackass, either way they will never feel as good as I expected them to be. The tech did comment he was expecting better from the set himself, he is a fan of Hawk, he wasn't sure why I'm not having that much luck on the Mini, he did make sure they were mounted right and all, must be that the compound simply isn't working as good with the OEM rotors? But he did say the car seems to be stopping as he would expect, so ...
Since the car does stop, just not as good, I'll leave it up to the wife to decide what she wants me to do. Needless to say it will be the last set I will buy.
Oh, and when cold, so at first start-up in the morning, I can still squeeze the pedal all the way and bottom out the brake booster. After driving a while, this goes away or at least it is nowhere near as easy to do it. If the brake pedal is slammed, it is impossible to get it to bottom out.
Can someone clarify how a set of pads can change the characteristics of the brake pedal travel?
Since the car does stop, just not as good, I'll leave it up to the wife to decide what she wants me to do. Needless to say it will be the last set I will buy.
Oh, and when cold, so at first start-up in the morning, I can still squeeze the pedal all the way and bottom out the brake booster. After driving a while, this goes away or at least it is nowhere near as easy to do it. If the brake pedal is slammed, it is impossible to get it to bottom out.
Can someone clarify how a set of pads can change the characteristics of the brake pedal travel?
#70
Not that I think this is the OP's issue, but a pad can effect pedal travel / feel.
The material of the pad itself can have a higher compressibility factor, giving a softer feel to the brake pedal.
Insufficient backing plates can flex, giving poor / uneven contact area with the rotor and also a softer pedal.
And a non-pad issue:
If your rotor or hub is out of whack, you could have high runout, which backs the pads further away from the rotor when the brakes are released. This would also cause a soft pedal.
And back on topic:
I'm going to try a fresh set of rotors on the car before I give up completely on these pads. Having them fade by the end of an autocross run is completely unacceptable.
The material of the pad itself can have a higher compressibility factor, giving a softer feel to the brake pedal.
Insufficient backing plates can flex, giving poor / uneven contact area with the rotor and also a softer pedal.
And a non-pad issue:
If your rotor or hub is out of whack, you could have high runout, which backs the pads further away from the rotor when the brakes are released. This would also cause a soft pedal.
And back on topic:
I'm going to try a fresh set of rotors on the car before I give up completely on these pads. Having them fade by the end of an autocross run is completely unacceptable.
#72
#73
Drove the car this AM to work. I still don't like them very much. I am going back to stock. I need to find a vendor here that sells the OEMs for cheap and without the sensors.
I don't think I will have to mess with compressing pistons a whole lot since these pads only have around 1K miles on them right?
I don't think I will have to mess with compressing pistons a whole lot since these pads only have around 1K miles on them right?
#74
More info needed to be sure/clear...
Replacing fronts? Which model? Are rotors new or worn (with a lip basically)?
Post is now long to try to pull this info out and I didn't see it on quick glance.
Post is now long to try to pull this info out and I didn't see it on quick glance.
#75
Drove the car this AM to work. I still don't like them very much. I am going back to stock. I need to find a vendor here that sells the OEMs for cheap and without the sensors.
I don't think I will have to mess with compressing pistons a whole lot since these pads only have around 1K miles on them right?
I don't think I will have to mess with compressing pistons a whole lot since these pads only have around 1K miles on them right?