I bought a 2012 classic mini 6 mths ago. I drive 100 miles/mth. I just got my first alert that one tire was low. I filled it up, went back in the car, and 4 tires were low. It took me three times trying to fill them out to what the gauge indicated as being almost the same pressure (33-34 more or less - it's hard to tell) to finally get the alert to go away. Am I doing something wrong? Please advise. Thanks. Mari

 

Did you reset the tire presssur monitoring system on you car's computer after you re-inflated? You should do this process every time you adjust inflation or change tires/wheels.

 

I did not know I had to do this. Pardon my ignorance, but can you tell me how? I'd be most grateful. Mari

 

Look in your manual. It's outlined in there.

I would type it here, but i don't remember it off the top of my head.

 

Thank you!!!

 

Resetting the system

Using the button in the turn signal lever



1. Start the engine, but do not start driving.

2. Briefly press the button in the turn signal lever repeatedly until "SET/INFO" is displayed.

3. Press and hold the button until the display changes.

4. Briefly press the button repeatedly until the symbol for Tire Pressure Monitor and "ACTIVE" are displayed. he Tire Pressure Monitor can be reset by selecting "RESET".

5. Press and hold the button until "RESETTING" is displayed.
6. Start driving. After driving a few minutes, the set inflation pressures in the tires are accepted as the target values to be monitored. The system reset is completed during your drive, and can be interrupted at any time. When driving resumes, the reset is continued automatically. The indicator lamp goes out after the system reset is completed.

 

Thank you again. That was very nice of you. I will check my manual also, but this certainly helps (i wonder why all the font stuff came out - you must have pasted it from somewhere and it carried it all - funny - I got it all, though). My ex used to do all this for me, but now I have to fend for myself. I'll learn. Thank you - this site is awesome. Mari

 

I just edited the post to remove the formatting

 

JHull, I believe you are correct on that one, my 08 acts the same way so Mari should be good to go after a reset. BTW I keep mine at 42 front, 37 rear, handles well and wears evenly. Higher in front reduces understeer.

 

Thank you, Turbo. However, my manual says that if I drive 100 m/p/hr (which I do), I have to fill all tires at 33. I never take highways. Should I fill them differently? Please advise. Thanks, Mari

 

Hi Mari, is that 100 MpH or 100KpH? Im not being funny, that's really 62 MpH, and 33 would be fine although I would recommend more a bit more, at 36 or more. If you are doing 100 on a regular basis, I would go 38 or more. See, the funny thing is, a tire doesn't hold up the weight of your car, the air inside does, and the less of it there is, the more rolling resistance and heat are built up, which is why cars with stupid-fast capabilities (think Bugatti Veyron, top = 256MPH, Cadillac CTS-V Hennesey, top = 202MPH+, etc) inflate their tires over 40 to 50PSI and use specially constructed tire carcasses as well.

 

Hi Turbo, Thank you for your so very clear explanation. I get it now. Actually, I never go over 60 miles per hour, but I will follow your advise and fill them up at 36-38 just in case. Shall I fill all four tires the same, or fill the front tires at let's say 38 and the back tires at 36; the way you fill yours? Please advise. Mari

 

Hi Mari, just remember you opened this can, okay ? LOL.
Okay, so that depends on how you like your handling. If you are used to a car that understeers (slow, but safe) and dont have a lot of performance or racing experience, run them about 36 all the way around. Higher in the fronts (say 42) will tend to balance the car some more where at the edge of handling, the car will tend to drift sideways with all 4 tires evenly (my SCCA road-course racing Camaro would do perfect 4 wheel drifts at 70 to 90 MPH, but I spent years building and tuning that beast. It was awesome.) Rear engined cars like a Porsche 911 and the much-declaimed Chevrolet Corvair run best with higher pressures in the rear, which is counter to everyone elses. I would prob start with 36 all the way around and see how you like it, then fiddle with the fronts from there. Hope that helps.

 

Hi Turbo, I am not sorry at all that I found you to give me advise. You definitely know what you are talking about and I trust your advise. I will do what you say and try out filling then evenly first to see how it works. Thank you so much! If you are not too busy, could you also help me with the oil situation. I understood from your site that Mini oil should be changed once a year? that seems to be a long time. And... that the oil should is high enough when it is between the bulges of the stick. Is that right? Please advise. Mari

 

Hi Mari, can opened, round 2. This one will prob bring out some comments. There are some on here that believe that the rash of N14/N18 timing chain drive failures is due to "owner abuse" in that the timing chain tensioner is run partially by oil pressure. Disregarding that, here’s the scoop and this maybe should be a new thread. Anyhoo.
The turbos require synthetic oil, a mixture which is made from original oil (usually) that has been torn apart and rebuilt by chemists to have greater longevity, better heat tolerance and slower molecular breakdown under heat and shear. Back in the day, when cars had carburetors and would often wash down their cylinder walls with excess fuel (carbs are not great at maintaining fuel/air ratios), the less advanced motor oils of the day would get gasoline contamination and break down from heat and shear, especially with solid lifter camshafts that stressed the oil even more at the metal-to-metal contact points. Hence the 3K oil change. In the 1980s cars started switching en-masse to fuel injection, which is more reliable and holds the fuel/air ratio better. At the same time, engine parts machining in production plants became more sophisticated (1/10,000 of an inch repeatable precision) and spinoffs from the Air Force And NASA produced mass-market synthetic lubricants worlds better than std motor oils. (benefits of our space program) Hence Mobil1, Castrol Syntec, RedLine, etc. Given that, I would still change your oil every 6500 to 7500 miles or 6 months, whichever arrives first and ignore the readings on your in-dash oil computer. The proper level should be between the little ***** on the stick and closest to the top is better, when it starts to drop pressure fluctuations may appear in the hydraulic timing chain tensioner system. That’s my 2 x $0.01 worth.

 

Mari,

Have you ever seen that commercial about anything posted on the Internet must be true? Keep that in mind.

 

Wow, Turbo. You're good. I wish I knew more about cars to give you more of a challenge. However, I really appreciate the time you have taken to answer my small questions. I will know how to keep the oil in my car at the correct level and change the oil after 6 months (I drive approximately 100 miles per month), sooo... my six months are up and I have 600 miles on my odometer. Too soon, maybe? pls advise. Mari

 

Mari, appreciate the props < bow >. So 600 miles eh? wow. Okay, is the car new, IE are these break-in miles, or is it used? If they are break-in miles, I would change it. Also, is it an S (turbo) or base model/(Justa) ? Based solely on time, it would seem the answer would be yes, but if its a non-turbo and you don't drive it hard, that would prob be a bit of overkill on wasting good oil. If its a turbo I would prob stick w/ the 6 month routine anyhow. Hope that helps.

 

Hi Turbo. Yes, only 600 miles and change. I don't drive much. Yes, the car is brand new and these are break-in miles, I suppose. However, no, it's not a turbo. It's basic and automatic. Thank you - I will wait a little, then. mari

 

I would like to suggest you to check tire pressur sensor.... Did you reset the tire presssur monitoring system on you car's computer after you re-inflated?i guess a problem can be there too... Just try to reset it.. I am providing you few steps to follow...
*Start the engine, but do not start driving.
*Briefly press the button in the turn signal lever repeatedly until "SET/INFO" is displayed.
*Press and hold the button until the display changes.
*Briefly press the button repeatedly until the symbol for Tire Pressure Monitor and "ACTIVE" are displayed. he Tire Pressure Monitor can be reset by selecting "RESET".
*Press and hold the button until "RESETTING" is displayed.
*Start driving. After driving a few minutes, the set inflation pressures in the tires are accepted as the target values to be monitored. The system reset is completed during your drive, and can be interrupted at any time. When driving resumes, the reset is continued automatically. The indicator lamp goes out after the system reset is completed.

Even i had a issue with this Tyre pressure in my car Barina.... most of time i find the air pressure is less.. i have changed the Tyre but still same issue.. anybody with any idea??
And if i change the tyre tube then one going to be best for me??????

2002 barina