I want to change my own front brake pads. My dealer said they're needed in 2000 miles or so for the front, but not for the rear. My book of Upgrades for the Mini says not to replace front without replacing back. Do I have to do both? Also, how can I tell if I need new rotors? Thanks. dennis

 

New rotors are required when the old ones are too thin and/or rusty (inside where the vents are). A bit of rust is normal; heavy flaking means it's time for new ones).

You need a micrometer or decent machinist's calipers to accurately measure the rotor thickness. The minimum thickness rating is usually stamped on the rotor itself.

Every new set of pads MUST also have either new rotors or machined rotors. I would suggest removing the old rotors and taking them to a local mechanic and ask if they can be machined. They can measure them and tell you if they are too thin or rusty or if they can be machined. Just my opinion.

Do you need to change both? IMO no if the rears are ok and still have life in the pad dont bother.

 

I've run two sets of pads to a set of rotors on my MINIs since 2002 and have done the same for the other folks whose MINIs I support

don't "machine" MINI rotors ... they are thin to begin with and you loose too much by skimming them. Unless you have abnormal grooving, and if you are just street driving as you say, you should be fine with 2 sets of pads to one set of rotors.

Just change what's needed. I usually get about 1 1/2 sets of fronts to a set of rears . . .

You can search my posts for several pictorial examples of what to look for on a visual pad inspection.

Tell us where you are

I just taught a new MINI owner how to do pads and rotors a few weeks ago. He bought the parts after we had discussions, he did the work in my garage with my tools and coaching. Cost? He bought lunch.

 

IMO if the are within the specs of the rotor there is no reason you can not machine your rotors. That is why the specs are ususally on the rotors edge. Also you can get away with not doing this if the rotors are not warped or have any hot spots. But you should still check the thickness either way IMO.

This is awesome Captbj. My hat is off to you.

 

Brake pads are good till they are "worn out", as a general rule, when the pad material is the same thickness as the backer plate, it is time.
On most cars..the front pads wear ABOUT 2X as fast as the front....so every other front brake job, the rears should be due, or close enough to do them at the same time!!
rotors are replaced based upon condition, with the Thickness being the MAIN LIMITING factor.....the minimum is thickness is usually cast into the side of the rotor.... typically, the rotor is machined, then measured...if thinker than the MIN, then reused...BUT on modern cars, rotors are starting pretty thin...so (especially with "soft" OEM MINI rotors)there is USUALLY not enough material to machine off, so often they are just tossed....With SOME rotor friendly pads, you can get 2 sets of pads if the rotors are smooth, round and true.....
But if you are a bit of a performance driver, get the brakes hot, drive on lots of hills, tow stuff or do track work, the thinner rotors MIGHT result in a warped rotor (pulsation) or less braking capacity due to less material.....end result..you throw out a partially worn set of $$ pads cause the re-used rotor went bad...
That is why MOST shops will ALWAYS replace the PADS AND THE ROTORS.....less likely return of a customer with an issue.

And I THINK the book is REFERRING to UPGRADE as in changing to a MUCH more AGGRESSIVE PAD compound than the ones you currently have.... more aggressive street pad is OK for an upgrade IMO at one end, but DO NOT go to a dual use track pad for the front, and leave the rears OEM....the track pad can take the heat, and the rears will simply turn to ash.....

Basically, if you have OEM pads on OEM rotors, it is VERY likely they are BOTH due for replacement....
and PLEASE keep in mind, the computer does not "know" when the brakes are worn out...it is a best guess...there is a sensor that can be tripped, and the computer then warns you, and then will keep prompting you..they are due...they can be looked at and be ok for a LONG time or be DUE BEFORE the computer says so.

 

Well Dennis, you have now been schooled in Brakes 101. I hope you payed attention and learned something.

 

Dennis: Check out the cost of replacement rotors on Amazon.com. Once you learn how cheap they are, it really isn't worth having them machined. Regardless of getting a few more miles out of your old rotors, I believe you are always better off with new rotors with full thickness. Brake parts really isn't a place to scrimp on costs IMHO. You will save more than enough $ doing the work yourself to easily pay for new parts.

 

Ok since you guys are on the subject.... I changed my front pads myself, bought the pads from Way and the are OEM, this is the first time that I've done this ever and it went very well thanks to the DYI posted here but I did not changed the rotors they looked fine to me and they feel excellent with the new brake pads. Should I have them checked? Or should I change them after the fact? Or just wait for the next brake change.
So far they feel great and the rotor looks healthy but like I said.. To me the do but I'm no expert. I'll appreciate you input guys. Thanks

 

This will be up for debate. I believe and IMO you should check the rotor thickness. If they are within specs, leave them on and you should be fine. If they are not within specs, then obviously change them. Thats my 2 cents.

 

Thanks Bram... Say they are not within specs and it turns out that I need to change them can I re use the same pads since they are only a few weeks old or do I need to get new pads? Thanks again

 

You should be able to use the same pads IMO.

 

Thanks a million! I really appreciate all of the expertise and experience. New rotors it is!

 

Thanks a lot ill have them measured thanks again

 

It's completely unecessary to replace the rear everytime you do the front. Replace if needed, not "just because".

If you use the same pad as before, there's nothing wrong with putting new pads in on used rotors. Just be aware that you'll need to bed in the pads a bit before they work at 100%. Doesn't take long.

Unless you live in an area with crazy rust/road salt problems, rotor wear is the main factor in whether you replace or not. (They are not thick enough to resurface, replaceement is the only option.)

Don't use factory parts. They cost too much. I highly recommend Centric Powerslot rotors (non cryo treated). You can easily fine them for 80 to 90 bucks online. Pads are your choice. I use Hawk HPS. Others like EBC.