My OEM rotors for my 2007 Mini Copper S are indeed in need of replacement, yesterday I purchased the JCW Drilled & Slotted front rotors to be used with my OEM calipers. I'm on the fence as for what high quality pads to purchase, I could go for the OEM pads, but I'm left wanting more! I understand that BMW/Mini cars tend to have a little more brake dust that average but want to know whether or not there is a higher quality performance set of brake pads that offer better or equal stopping power without all that extra brake dust and that don't squeak because there harder pads.

I have heard from some that sell brakes and other's about how the EBC Red Stuff produces just as much brake dust as any other pad, is there a better quality than the Red Stuff with low dust? I'm trying to cut through all the untrue of perhaps false information do to some other explanation do to improper assembly and/or rotors that aren't up to specs. I'm also told that I can reuse my brake pad sensors as long as there intact, my pads are 50% gone so my sensors look new still.

I would appreciated any feedback!

 

Go with the EBC redstuff they are much lower dust, and no comparison in to the OEM as they are much better. The redstuff are by far our best sellers.

 

I hope you shopped around for those rotors.

 

The JCW rotors were $169.99 each v.s $185 at other places were charging, I was not charged for any shipping costs.

 

Cool. Good luck

 

RedStuff EBC make are awesome, I am putting mine on today. I have run hawk hps hp+ yellow stuff and red stuff. Redstuff is by far my favorite for low dust better bite than OEM and they do not fade!

-B

 

Brake pads aren't going to add stopping power. They may change the feel of the brake pedal (which many people equate with more "stopping power", but it isn't), but that's it. You need to match the pad to your application and rotor. You can put a full on aggressive track pad on your daily driver, and your "stopping power" will actually decrease, because those pads are designed to work at higher temperatures. You'll never get them hot enough. Conversely, a daily driver pad won't work on the track--it'll overheat.

If you want better stopping power, upgrade your tires first, then think about pads. What you need is more grip, not pads that bite more.

 

tires are a must! pads/rotors are always a nice upgrade for spirited driving or for me Auto x

-B

 

I'm running high performance wheels and tires, 205/45/17" Pirelli run flat tires. Handles like my sisters BMW esspecially around tight corners, one thing I like about the OEM pads is the bite at high to low speeds. The thing that really bothers me is the dust build up so quickly on my wheels! I purchased these JCW sport rotors to get a higher quality performance braking system. Will the Red Stuff feel similar or will I need more braking pressure?

I really appreciate all the feedback.

 

You'll probably need less, which is why they'll FEEL like they're stopping you faster, but the end result will the same, but without the dust, so that's a good way to go, you'll be happy with it.

If you go to an ultra performance non-runflat tire, you'll notice a significant improvement in braking/accelerating, but that may not be an option for you. You have more than enough brake for those tires.

 

More braking and accelerating, how and why? I'll admit I'm not to knowledgeable when it comes to braking and how different types of tires improve braking and accelerating. Are there any articles that I can read up on explaining how and why?

 

It's simple--grip. Harder tire compounds don't grip as well, so they don't stop as fast, or accelrate as fast.

Softer tires are exactly the opposite, they stick like glue, so they slow you down (or speed you up as they can hook up to the ground better). The tradeoff is softer tires wear out much faster ( the higher the tread rating, the longer the tire will last, but the less sticky it will be). That's why the tires that come stock aren't the higher performance tires--they'd have to be changed too quickly (For example some track tires are worth a couple of DAYS driving on the track, or even just one day--not good for a daily driver obviously, but oh my, do they make a difference while they last).

So you try to find something that fits your driving pattern, and part of that depends on how frequently you want to pay for new tires.

The new Hankook ultra performance would be my first pick (I have Falken Azeni's, and I really like them, but the Hankooks are getting rave reviews). But one thing about the ultra performance tires, they don't do well in the cold, so it's something to keep in mind. For the track I use something much stickier, but it's not appropriate for the street.

 

Once you bed them in, they should have decent initial bite. Follow the bed-in instructions from EBC and thy will mate to the discs and you'll be good to go. They are very rotor friendly. You probably won't find much difference in pedal pressure unless you are changing your lines. Even then, it may not be very different.

Also, if you are looking to upgrade your braking system, I would stay away from cross-drilled rotors. Unless they are larger than the rotors you are replacing, you are effectively decreasing your braking performance because you have taken away from the overall surface area that the pad has to grab. They may be slightly better in the wet though.

 

Remember, you don't want drilled rotors if you're going to track the car. I bought a set of JCW drilled and slotted rotors a while back, primarily for the looks. But now I want to do a track day and I've got some Centric/Stoptech Powerslot rotors on order. 79 bucks each and they're top notch quality.

 

Drilled rotors are prone to cracking at track temps. On the other hand, I don't think you'll notice any difference on drilled rotors on a street driven car with regard to stopping distance on street tires, like I said earlier, you have more than enough brake for the tires you'ew on a the holes will make no difference; the surface area difference won't matter in this application, it's negligible. The holes are mainly cosmetic in this situation, they aren't going to change things one way or the other.

The stock pads are pretty soft, at least they used to be (I haven't been on them in years); the EBC pads may or may not feel firmer to you, depending on how sensitive you are.

 

If you want a big informational brake write up I can help, and disperse the rumors commonly found on forums by weekend warriors (you should see the subaru forum world ><)


cct1, not necc true. If you did more research on high end track cars they run slotted rotors to clean the face of the pads, and drilled release the gasses caused by their track pads.

CHEAP drilled rotors crack.

if those rotors were always prone to crack, new ultra sports cars (ferrari, lambergini, porche, austin db's) would all be doing it wrong?

-B

 

I understand that; I've spent more time on brakes than you can imagine, I've done plenty of research, and I'm in contact periodically with the Brakeman folks, who's knowledge I'd put up against anyone's on brakes. I know the principal behind slotted and drilled rotors, it's really not that complicated; I have run slotted rotors in the past. In truth, they make little/no difference on a MINI, and I run plain rotors now--very high quality plain rotors. I run a high end brake kit on my car, specifically for the track (Brakeman, google it, it's worth the read). The holes are also there for cooling. Dispersing gasses on modern pads isn't as much of an issue as it was in the past. Although I have experienced knock back before and it's not pleasant.

These (The JCW) are not high end rotors. They are not meant for the track. They will crack with extended track use, with or without brake ducts. What I wrote applies in this situation. It does not apply to Porsche or Ferrari or any of the super cars brakes. It's apples to oranges, and high end rotors/brakes aren't what we're discussing here, that's a whole different discussion, and you may be confusing drilled versus cast rotors (both with holes). Big difference. The JCW's are drilled, not cast.

That being said, I know plenty of Porsche owners who will only run plain rotors.

I have run 5 different brake kits on the MINI. So I've had plenty of experience....

 

False! The main advantages of drilled and slotted discs are the same: increased brake "bite", and a continuous refreshing of the brake pad surface.

Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotor Facts
Drilled and Slotted rotors have more grip - Stock rotors not as much
Holes and slots help air ventilation and heat dissipation. Rotors will run cooler and cool off faster – Stock rotor will over heat sooner and stay hot.
Slots increase brake pad bite – Stock rotors do not.
Note: The misconception out there is that slotted rotor will heat up because of the added bite and the rotors will over heat. Yes this is true under repetitive use such as on a racetrack or slowing down a heavy load down a steep hill, and the rotors do not have sufficient time to dissipate the heat. You need heat for the brake pads to work. The trouble is when there is too much heat, the increased bite provided by the slots will raise the brake pad temperature slowing down the vehicle sooner, and thus you don’t need to be on the brakes as long.
Holes and slots Decrease Wear – Another misconception is that the slots and holes will wear out the pads quicker. Yes this can be true if you use cheap brake pads that have a low working temperature. The reason is that for every 100 degree increase over the brake pads operating temperature, the pad wear is doubled. So for example if the pads can only withstand 300 Degrees and your brakes are running at 400, then the pads will start to wear quickly. If you buy a set of Performance rotors you need to also purchase a set of good performance pads. This will insure longer life of both rotors and Pads
Holes and slots eject water and prevent Brake Pad hydroplaning – Stock rotor can hydroplane in bad weather.
Holes and slots vent gas during brake fade – Stock rotors will fade if the brake pads out-gas.
Drilled and Slotted rotors are lighter – No real advantage over a stock rotor on a road vehicle.
Drilled rotors are more prone to crack – Well Stock Rotor can crack too if exposed to excessive thermal shock (Fast Heating and Cooling).

 

I've gone back and forth with slotted/non-slotted rotors, they really don't make any difference on the MINI. For what it's worth, the only time I experienced knock back was on slotted rotors.

I cracked more rotors than I can count, but that's from the track, rotors are pretty much a disposable item if you're hitting the track.


We're getting into more serious areas, way beyond what the original poster was after, for example, for temperatures, I monitor those and choose a pad depending those, both front and rear, as each pad compound has a optimal operating temperature. The number you threw out there--300 degrees--I know it was just an arbitrary number, but man, if I was close to that life would be much easier...

 

Here is some good reading material from one of the largest manufacturers of brakes
https://www.buybrakes.com/brembo/faq.html#q19

 

I will agree with you on this. The stock MINI brakes with the right pads are excellent IMO.

 

The stock (at least stock R56 brakes, which are the old R53 JCW brakes) are good--but the setup I have at the moment is unbelivably good. Brakeman Tornado calipers, allows me to run a 12.1 diameter rotor underneath a 15' diameter wheelon the track--the calipers are such a low profile. They are so stiff, I get virtually no pad taper, which is very nice. The rotors are fantastic, and not that expensive. They are finicky though--the calipers have to be EXACTLY centered over the rotor, which takes a little work.

 

Have any pics of the brakes and with the rim on?

 

1st: 16 inch rotas, what I use on the street
2nd: without wheel
3rd: 3rd: 15 Team Dynamics, track setup

 

Slots and holes do not add "bite". It's the interaction between the surface of the pad and the surface of the rotor (which has a layer of pad material layed down on/in it) that gives you the bite.