Tires, Wheels, & Brakes Discussion about wheels, tires, and brakes for the new MINI.

EBC Green Stuff brake pads are........

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  #51  
Old 06-16-2004, 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by apexer
I switched to performance brake fluid when I installed my EBC pads and Stainless Brake Lines. Always go with a H/P brake fluid, even for spirited street driving.
What fluid did you use??? Did you install the Stainlees Steel brake lines yourself???? If so, about how long did it take and what level of experience in doing this do you have??? I ask, because within the next week or so I will be doing the same. I have aalready installed slotted & dimpled EBC rotors on the front and new Green Stuff pads all the way around. I figured that the next logical step was up graded lines and with the lines comes h/p fluid.

How has the new braking setup worked out???? :smile:
 
  #52  
Old 06-16-2004, 01:47 PM
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paddy: I used Ate brake fluid because you can get it either an amber color or blue. This allows you to see the color change when you bleed the brakes. There are a number of good brake fluid, Motol seems popular. Castrol has probably the best (higher wet & dry boiling points) but, its costs a bunch... over $60.00 a can, whereas others about 15-18 a can. One can was enough to do the job. BTW, did I mention.. you'll bleed, bleed, bleed.

I had someone help with the brake lines, mostly to pump the brake when bleeding. All in all probably took a couple of hours to install the lines & bleed, bleed, bleed. I also blead the clutch as it uses the same resevoir as the brakes.

I got my lines (Stoptech) from Out Motoring, under $120.00.

You'll have a more firm peddle and so far, no fade problems although I haven't really worked them hard enough to get the pads "smoking".
 
  #53  
Old 06-16-2004, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jmoser
do I need to put new rotors on when I install the new pads now? EBC pads ok with stock rotors? (don't race, just drive spiritedly)..if not, whats recommended?
Nope -- just pop in the pads as a FRU (Field Replaceable Unit). I swapped my old OEM pads for Greens about 4K miles ago, just before the Dragon Daze. Zero problems. Great performance. No dust. No Complaints.

Tom
 
  #54  
Old 06-16-2004, 03:37 PM
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Tomslick,

I was able to do a little research today and here is the answer on how mositure gets into the brake system and why it is important to change it every two years. This is from the "How to" section of the advance Auto Parts Web site:
Fluid Facts

Although a properly functioning brake system is closed to outside corruption, brake fluid still degrades over time. Fluid must withstand heat that can exceed 650 degrees F at the wheel without boiling and also remain in a fluid state during the coldest winters. Furthermore, brake fluid lubricates and fights corrosion on internal parts.

Most brake fluid is hydroscopic: It absorbs water. On the positive side, any moisture that enters the system—through condensation, through rubber parts such as seals and hoses or through an unsealed bottle of brake fluid—is dispersed throughout the fluid. That way, chances of localized corrosion and fluid freezing are minimized. On the other hand, absorbed moisture lowers the fluid's boiling point, raises its freezing point and degrades its anti-corrosion additives. As little as 3% moisture can decrease fluid's performance by 30% and also negate its anti-corrosives. Additionally, standard DOT 3 brake fluid can only absorb up to 7% moisture, after which water droplets—and braking problems—begin to form. Anti-lock brake systems (ABS) are especially affected by moisture because they can cycle as many as 20 times per second. Spongy pedal feel is a sign of moisture in the brake fluid.

Depending on temperature fluctuations and humidity, a brake system can take on as much as 3% water in as little as eight months. It's usually recommended that the fluid be entirely flushed at least every two years or 24,000 miles.

Remember that brake systems are closed, so loss of fluid indicates a problem somewhere. When a master-cylinder reservoir is low, look for the cause instead of just topping it off with fluid. The system either has a leak somewhere or the brake pads are worn, causing the pistons to be more extended and retain more fluid.
:smile:
 
  #55  
Old 06-16-2004, 05:17 PM
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Thanks Paddy, that's interesting.
Wonder if anyone's had their brakes freeze?
Guess I oughta change the fluid in my other vehicles. They're all over ten years old and never had it changed!
 
  #56  
Old 06-16-2004, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Tomslick
Thanks Paddy, that's interesting.
Wonder if anyone's had their brakes freeze?
Guess I oughta change the fluid in my other vehicles. They're all over ten years old and never had it changed!
Tomslick,
I was oblivious about the changing of brake fluid for years and it has only been recently that I have been doing more for myself. I have had my other vehicles always serviced/worked on by the same one man shop and he has always did what ever was needed. Unless you always did the work yourself, the shop changed the fluid as part of a major brake job.

I have never heard of anyone having their brake line freeze, I live in moderate climate area and the winters just don't get that cold for an extended period of time. :smile:
 
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