Mintex RedBox Shrieking like crazy!
#1
I just had some Mintex RedBox pads installed and they are screeching so bad it's making me not want to drive. This is a big, big problem. I love to drive. Has anybody else had this problem?
Also the right rear seems to be dragging so that it screeches even when the brake is not being applied. And no, my e-brake is not on. The shop I took it to said that this is either their fault (I don't pay for the fix) or it's a parts problem (in which case I do pay). All I wanted was good braking performance and this has turned into a nightmare.
PEOPLE WITH MINTEX RED BOX PADS, tell me everything is going to be alright.
Also the right rear seems to be dragging so that it screeches even when the brake is not being applied. And no, my e-brake is not on. The shop I took it to said that this is either their fault (I don't pay for the fix) or it's a parts problem (in which case I do pay). All I wanted was good braking performance and this has turned into a nightmare.
PEOPLE WITH MINTEX RED BOX PADS, tell me everything is going to be alright.
#4
See here's the thing:
I got the Mintex pads on all four corners, stainless lines I won on MINI2 on the front, and uprated brake fluid put in. I oredered them all through Helix and got them installed at a local speed shop that appears reputable. The guy at the shop told me that if they messed something up they would fix it, but if the problem was with the "customer supplied" parts then I would have to pay for everything. Now what's stopping him from telling me it's my problem one way or the other? Nothing but strenght of character - and I don't really know this guy - though, as I said, the shop appears to be reputable. I am bringing it in at 2:00 EST today.
They are all shreiking, but the right rear is dragging horribly. I could actually smell it when I got close to it yesterday after driving home from work.
I'm just freaking out over this.
I got the Mintex pads on all four corners, stainless lines I won on MINI2 on the front, and uprated brake fluid put in. I oredered them all through Helix and got them installed at a local speed shop that appears reputable. The guy at the shop told me that if they messed something up they would fix it, but if the problem was with the "customer supplied" parts then I would have to pay for everything. Now what's stopping him from telling me it's my problem one way or the other? Nothing but strenght of character - and I don't really know this guy - though, as I said, the shop appears to be reputable. I am bringing it in at 2:00 EST today.
They are all shreiking, but the right rear is dragging horribly. I could actually smell it when I got close to it yesterday after driving home from work.
I'm just freaking out over this.
#5
I know someone who installed the Mintex pad backwards on one of the rear wheels. Needless to say, it was making a strange noise.
If you have noise coming from all four wheels, I would think it's the installation and not the pads. But it's really hard to say. Are the wire retainers (holding the pad in place) fitted properly?
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If you have noise coming from all four wheels, I would think it's the installation and not the pads. But it's really hard to say. Are the wire retainers (holding the pad in place) fitted properly?
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#6
Yeah, the retainers are ok.
I went back to the place today and took a tech guy for a ride. All four corners screech a little under braking but the right rear was doing it while I was driving. The tech told me my rotor was probably warped at little bit or had a buildup from the OEM pads on it. I replaced the pads with almost 30,000 miles on the car and didn't get new rotors so he thinks the rotor is the real problem. I drive my car pretty hard when I'm not commuting so I can see how that would be a possibility.
I had no idea how long the OEM rotors were supposed to last, especially with a couple autocrosses and owners' group "runs" on them so it looks like I'm in the market for a new set of rotors I guess, huh?
I went back to the place today and took a tech guy for a ride. All four corners screech a little under braking but the right rear was doing it while I was driving. The tech told me my rotor was probably warped at little bit or had a buildup from the OEM pads on it. I replaced the pads with almost 30,000 miles on the car and didn't get new rotors so he thinks the rotor is the real problem. I drive my car pretty hard when I'm not commuting so I can see how that would be a possibility.
I had no idea how long the OEM rotors were supposed to last, especially with a couple autocrosses and owners' group "runs" on them so it looks like I'm in the market for a new set of rotors I guess, huh?
#7
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#8
I have Mintex on all 4 corners. Had some squeek but cured it with two things. First , use 220 grit garnet sandpaper and spin the rotors and take the glaze off themwith light finger pressure. . I also took the pad face and rubbed in on the sandpaper laying on the work bench.
Part two was some anti squeal spray to back of the pads. Red sticky stuff you let set for 10 minutes then reinstall.
Remember to take is easy at first to see how your stopping power is.
Note This process also quieted down Ferodo 2500's on the fronts. Brake pads are so easy to do yourself.
Jeff
Part two was some anti squeal spray to back of the pads. Red sticky stuff you let set for 10 minutes then reinstall.
Remember to take is easy at first to see how your stopping power is.
Note This process also quieted down Ferodo 2500's on the fronts. Brake pads are so easy to do yourself.
Jeff
#10
If your rotors are warped you can get them replaced under warranty even if they are only 30,000 miles old.
You'd need to put the stock brake pads back on and if those are worn they can get replaced under warranty too. Others have done it.
There is nothing wrong with Mintex redbox. I have them on all wheels and replaced them with aftermarket rotors and there was no noise at all from the start.
See if you can get the noise out and if not then put the stock pads on and have the dealer check for warping and wear on the pads.
You'd need to put the stock brake pads back on and if those are worn they can get replaced under warranty too. Others have done it.
There is nothing wrong with Mintex redbox. I have them on all wheels and replaced them with aftermarket rotors and there was no noise at all from the start.
See if you can get the noise out and if not then put the stock pads on and have the dealer check for warping and wear on the pads.
#11
If you have 30,000 miles on the rotors and did not turn them or at least de-glaze them this is probably a big part of the problem. another thing you can do is get some good pad lube (GOES ON THE BACK SIDE / METAL BACKING TO PISTON). Permatex makes a good product that is available in most auto parts stores. It is packaged like a little packet of Ketchup from McDonalds.
#12
The shop that originally did this for me put the anit-squeel stuff on the backs of the pads already so that's all set. One more question since I've never worked on my brakes before: Will I be able to get the pads out of the calipers with that gunk on the back of them or are they like, glued on there?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#13
I put a set of Mintex on the rear about 10 ago. Followed the directions I found at http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm and have put almost 900 miles on them. No shrierking, just great stopping. Waiting on the front until the slotted & dimpled rotors arrive.
CTMINI, I like you have never changed the brake pads. I followed the great instructions from Randy Webb's web site. Since I had never done this before, it took 75 minutes for the right side and 15 minutes for the left, very steep learning curve. When it comes time to change the front rotors & pads, I believe that it should only take about 60 minutes to change both the rotors & pads.
For those of you that have changed to the Mintex Red Box pads, how would you compare them to the OEM pads, from the brake dust point of view????
CTMINI, I like you have never changed the brake pads. I followed the great instructions from Randy Webb's web site. Since I had never done this before, it took 75 minutes for the right side and 15 minutes for the left, very steep learning curve. When it comes time to change the front rotors & pads, I believe that it should only take about 60 minutes to change both the rotors & pads.
For those of you that have changed to the Mintex Red Box pads, how would you compare them to the OEM pads, from the brake dust point of view????
#14
CTMINI,
The pads might stick somewhat due to the rubber sticky stuff, but they'll come off. You might need to do a little cleanup, but it's all pretty obvious and easy.
paddy,
I've done basically the same break-in as is on that site, but not quite as extreme. These are street pads after all, and they'll get plenty hot after mild warming to temps and then maybe three or four 60-10 mph hard braking tries. I just came to a stop and then let them cool off for about ten minutes (yes, I know that driving would cool them faster, but I'd rather not chance an "accidental" brake). I got a nice glaze on the fronts, but the backs needed a little more work. I'll probably do another session this week that will be more handbrake intensive.
All,
My rotors have an obvious warp to them, especially noticeable on the rears. The "inside" quarter inch of rotor just doesn't get hit by the pads on the rears. I'm sure that this is due to track time or poor bedding in the future. I'm just wondering if it's really that big of a deal. I probably have less than a year left on these rotors, and it really is just the rears that are the problem. Should I be concerned about some slight warping or uneven wear? Will they eventually even out?
The pads might stick somewhat due to the rubber sticky stuff, but they'll come off. You might need to do a little cleanup, but it's all pretty obvious and easy.
paddy,
I've done basically the same break-in as is on that site, but not quite as extreme. These are street pads after all, and they'll get plenty hot after mild warming to temps and then maybe three or four 60-10 mph hard braking tries. I just came to a stop and then let them cool off for about ten minutes (yes, I know that driving would cool them faster, but I'd rather not chance an "accidental" brake). I got a nice glaze on the fronts, but the backs needed a little more work. I'll probably do another session this week that will be more handbrake intensive.
All,
My rotors have an obvious warp to them, especially noticeable on the rears. The "inside" quarter inch of rotor just doesn't get hit by the pads on the rears. I'm sure that this is due to track time or poor bedding in the future. I'm just wondering if it's really that big of a deal. I probably have less than a year left on these rotors, and it really is just the rears that are the problem. Should I be concerned about some slight warping or uneven wear? Will they eventually even out?
#15
>>paddy,
>>I've done basically the same break-in as is on that site, but not quite as extreme. These are street pads after all, and they'll get plenty hot after mild warming to temps and then maybe three or four 60-10 mph hard braking tries. I just came to a stop and then let them cool off for about ten minutes (yes, I know that driving would cool them faster, but I'd rather not chance an "accidental" brake). I got a nice glaze on the fronts, but the backs needed a little more work. I'll probably do another session this week that will be more handbrake intensive.
>>
Chitown_COOP,
I heated them up with the 60-45 gentle braking, then 6-7 of the 60-10 and then let them cool down with a very slow drive for a good 15 minutes. No stops, this was done late on a Sunday afternoon. Then came back to the same road again and repeated 60-10 hard braking and another long slow drive to cool those puppies down. Everything seems to be just fine, brakes just as sure as ever.
When I replace the front rotors & pads, I also plan to flush the brake lines and replace the current fluid with ATE Super Blue. Hopefully, all the parts will arrive before the long weekend coming up. I don't like to be pressed for time when I start to do any woirk on the MINI. :smile:
>>I've done basically the same break-in as is on that site, but not quite as extreme. These are street pads after all, and they'll get plenty hot after mild warming to temps and then maybe three or four 60-10 mph hard braking tries. I just came to a stop and then let them cool off for about ten minutes (yes, I know that driving would cool them faster, but I'd rather not chance an "accidental" brake). I got a nice glaze on the fronts, but the backs needed a little more work. I'll probably do another session this week that will be more handbrake intensive.
>>
Chitown_COOP,
I heated them up with the 60-45 gentle braking, then 6-7 of the 60-10 and then let them cool down with a very slow drive for a good 15 minutes. No stops, this was done late on a Sunday afternoon. Then came back to the same road again and repeated 60-10 hard braking and another long slow drive to cool those puppies down. Everything seems to be just fine, brakes just as sure as ever.
When I replace the front rotors & pads, I also plan to flush the brake lines and replace the current fluid with ATE Super Blue. Hopefully, all the parts will arrive before the long weekend coming up. I don't like to be pressed for time when I start to do any woirk on the MINI. :smile:
#16
sorry not trying to hijack the thread but since we are talking about mintex and squeling.
i put on a set of mintex reds about 7k miles ago. no squelling until today
hehe
when i installed them i put the good ole red sticky stuff on the back of the pad so im thinking its warped rotors. there is no squeling when i apply the break just when the brake is off. stinks.
am i right in thinking its the rotor? shoudl i be looking at something else?
thanks for the help.
i put on a set of mintex reds about 7k miles ago. no squelling until today
hehe
when i installed them i put the good ole red sticky stuff on the back of the pad so im thinking its warped rotors. there is no squeling when i apply the break just when the brake is off. stinks.
am i right in thinking its the rotor? shoudl i be looking at something else?
thanks for the help.
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