Official F56 Wheel Fitment Thread
#1176
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
A 215 tire on a 8.5” wide wheel will be a stretch for the tire. Depends on the look you are going for. Probably not the best for handling or tire wear.
I would just buy a pair of each, the 5 and 10 mm spacers and see which is best. You can aways sell (here on NAM) the set you don’t use. Or return it if you don’t mess it up.
You will need to buy longer wheel bolts to go with any spacer you use. Do not use the stock bolts with a spacer as it won’t have enough thread engagement to be safe.
#1177
From my experience it is the inside of the rear wheel wells where you will get rubbing with a wide tire/wheel. I tried a 225-45x17 on a 7.5” wide wheel with 40 ET and it was rubbing back there just backing out of the driveway. I don’t know what the rear camber was back there, but you may be able tuck the tire in enough with more camber within the available camber adjustment range to keep the rubbing to a minimum. Not sure.
A 215 tire on a 8.5” wide wheel will be a stretch for the tire. Depends on the look you are going for. Probably not the best for handling or tire wear.
I would just buy a pair of each, the 5 and 10 mm spacers and see which is best. You can aways sell (here on NAM) the set you don’t use. Or return it if you don’t mess it up.
You will need to buy longer wheel bolts to go with any spacer you use. Do not use the stock bolts with a spacer as it won’t have enough thread engagement to be safe.
A 215 tire on a 8.5” wide wheel will be a stretch for the tire. Depends on the look you are going for. Probably not the best for handling or tire wear.
I would just buy a pair of each, the 5 and 10 mm spacers and see which is best. You can aways sell (here on NAM) the set you don’t use. Or return it if you don’t mess it up.
You will need to buy longer wheel bolts to go with any spacer you use. Do not use the stock bolts with a spacer as it won’t have enough thread engagement to be safe.
Good idea on getting both size spacers. I’ll have to see if I can find a seller that has a good return policy if I can. Maybe Amazon it.
I’m planning to get a stud conversion kit on ECS too so I don’t have to worry about the longer bolts
The following users liked this post:
ECSTuning (12-26-2023)
#1178
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
For the stud conversion, you still need to make sure they are long enough for proper nut to thread engagement. I have some that just fit a wheel with no spacer. I could have gotten longer. This is a consideration if you get bull nose studs where the treads start further down the shank, which facilitates putting the nut on (really nice for not cross threading), but the down side is that it shortens the thread engagement length. So when looking at studs and considering bull nose stud take this into account and buy them longer.
I have bought studs from Turner Motorsports as I trust them. I have seen a lot of broken studs when I go to the track. Studs (and wheel bolts for that matter), at least in track use are considered to be wear items and need to be replaced before they start breaking. I trust the Turners to not be breaking “out of the box” and to last a reasonable length of time. For the street, not sure what the life will be. Turner also has spacers. Turner and ECS seem to work together (same company?) and I think have good return policies.
Another thought…. If you have a piece of 5mm or 1/4” (~6mm) plywood, cut a “test” spacer out of that. Use a hole saw and cut 5 - 2” dia disks. If using wheel bolts just make the center hole a touch small so you can pass the bolt through the wheel and thread it into the disk to hold it in place while mounting the wheel. That should be enough to test for clearance.
I have bought studs from Turner Motorsports as I trust them. I have seen a lot of broken studs when I go to the track. Studs (and wheel bolts for that matter), at least in track use are considered to be wear items and need to be replaced before they start breaking. I trust the Turners to not be breaking “out of the box” and to last a reasonable length of time. For the street, not sure what the life will be. Turner also has spacers. Turner and ECS seem to work together (same company?) and I think have good return policies.
Another thought…. If you have a piece of 5mm or 1/4” (~6mm) plywood, cut a “test” spacer out of that. Use a hole saw and cut 5 - 2” dia disks. If using wheel bolts just make the center hole a touch small so you can pass the bolt through the wheel and thread it into the disk to hold it in place while mounting the wheel. That should be enough to test for clearance.
#1179
The following 2 users liked this post by nodrog321:
dpcompt (08-27-2023),
Mini-Titan (09-06-2023)
#1180
Nice!
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#1182
Wheels: Enkei - TS9 - 17x8 (ET45)
Tires: Continental - Extreme Contact Sport - 215/45R17
Hub Centric Rings: Wheel Connect (from Amazon) 72.56 to 66.56
TPMS: BHSens with Black Metal Valve Stems
Spacers: 2MM Dinan Spacers (for front)
WEIGHT:
OEM Style 501 17" with HANKOOK- OPTIMO H426B HRS [Run Flats]: 46.6lbs
Enkei TS9 17" with CONTINENTAL- EXTREME CONTACT SPORT: 38.6lbs
I installed these wheels on my 2022 F56 JCW. As stated by other F56 owners with this same wheel, at stock height and with 215/45 tires, it'll clear the strut and front JCW calipers without spacers. However, it is REAL CLOSE to the JCW front caliper, about 1mm. I went with 2mm spacers to give a bit more space between the caliper and spoke as I plan to track the car.
POKE:
Rears: Are 5mm inwards from the fender (however, be warned that adding a 5mm spacer or more would reduce the hub lip contact to the hub centric ring by quite a bit, so that could lead to vibration)
Fronts: WITHOUT SPACERS, it looks pretty darn flushed to the naked eye (especially with the tire curving inwards), but upon measuring from the wheel's rim, it does poke 1mm out. Adding 2mm spacers will poke out 3mm and you will see it if you look dead straight, but honestly, at any other angle looks flushed
Absolutely love the look and noticeable improvement in ride quality and steering feel.
Tires: Continental - Extreme Contact Sport - 215/45R17
Hub Centric Rings: Wheel Connect (from Amazon) 72.56 to 66.56
TPMS: BHSens with Black Metal Valve Stems
Spacers: 2MM Dinan Spacers (for front)
WEIGHT:
OEM Style 501 17" with HANKOOK- OPTIMO H426B HRS [Run Flats]: 46.6lbs
Enkei TS9 17" with CONTINENTAL- EXTREME CONTACT SPORT: 38.6lbs
I installed these wheels on my 2022 F56 JCW. As stated by other F56 owners with this same wheel, at stock height and with 215/45 tires, it'll clear the strut and front JCW calipers without spacers. However, it is REAL CLOSE to the JCW front caliper, about 1mm. I went with 2mm spacers to give a bit more space between the caliper and spoke as I plan to track the car.
POKE:
Rears: Are 5mm inwards from the fender (however, be warned that adding a 5mm spacer or more would reduce the hub lip contact to the hub centric ring by quite a bit, so that could lead to vibration)
Fronts: WITHOUT SPACERS, it looks pretty darn flushed to the naked eye (especially with the tire curving inwards), but upon measuring from the wheel's rim, it does poke 1mm out. Adding 2mm spacers will poke out 3mm and you will see it if you look dead straight, but honestly, at any other angle looks flushed
Absolutely love the look and noticeable improvement in ride quality and steering feel.
For all you track junkies out there, what is the consensus for a good 17" track wheel (and best offset to get) and do you run 215 or 225?
#1183
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
How did this work out at the track for you? I am looking for some wheels for the track (2016 F56 JCW) and would like to run 225's so prefer a 8" wheel.
For all you track junkies out there, what is the consensus for a good 17" track wheel (and best offset to get) and do you run 215 or 225?
For all you track junkies out there, what is the consensus for a good 17" track wheel (and best offset to get) and do you run 215 or 225?
Welcome to NAM!
What track experience do you currently have?
As for what tire size to run on the track…
Here is my experience. I run 215-45x17s on my 2019 JCW and my 2012 R56S. Why? Because that is what fits within the wheel wells without a lot of damage. The rear wheel wells are tight and with the lateral suspension flex I get rubbing with that size on the rear wheel well liner at the wheel well arch. A wider tire will just rub more. Will it hit the metal? Don’t know, as I have not wanted to risk tire damage and possibly failure.
On my F56 JCW I am running the tires on 7.5” wide ET45 Sparco wheels (also need 2mm spacers up front). The 215 tires seem to really like that width as compared to the same tire on my R56 MINI with 7” wide wheels. I would think the 215 tire would be just fine on an 8” wide wheel.
If you go with the 225 wide tire, just watch the inside of the wheel well arch for tire wear through the liner and on the metal. You don’t want the tire being sliced by the wheel well lip.
FWIW - My JCW is basically stock. The only change I have made is the addition of the JCW Pro suspension (coilovers). It has minimal factory camber up front. This limits the effectiveness of a wider tire and you maybe just as well off with the 215 tire as a 225 tire. Just a thought.
#1184
As for what tire size to run on the track…
Here is my experience. I run 215-45x17s on my 2019 JCW and my 2012 R56S. Why? Because that is what fits within the wheel wells without a lot of damage. The rear wheel wells are tight and with the lateral suspension flex I get rubbing with that size on the rear wheel well liner at the wheel well arch. A wider tire will just rub more. Will it hit the metal? Don’t know, as I have not wanted to risk tire damage and possibly failure.
On my F56 JCW I am running the tires on 7.5” wide ET45 Sparco wheels (also need 2mm spacers up front). The 215 tires seem to really like that width as compared to the same tire on my R56 MINI with 7” wide wheels. I would think the 215 tire would be just fine on an 8” wide wheel.
If you go with the 225 wide tire, just watch the inside of the wheel well arch for tire wear through the liner and on the metal. You don’t want the tire being sliced by the wheel well lip.
FWIW - My JCW is basically stock. The only change I have made is the addition of the JCW Pro suspension (coilovers). It has minimal factory camber up front. This limits the effectiveness of a wider tire and you maybe just as well off with the 215 tire as a 225 tire. Just a thought.
Here is my experience. I run 215-45x17s on my 2019 JCW and my 2012 R56S. Why? Because that is what fits within the wheel wells without a lot of damage. The rear wheel wells are tight and with the lateral suspension flex I get rubbing with that size on the rear wheel well liner at the wheel well arch. A wider tire will just rub more. Will it hit the metal? Don’t know, as I have not wanted to risk tire damage and possibly failure.
On my F56 JCW I am running the tires on 7.5” wide ET45 Sparco wheels (also need 2mm spacers up front). The 215 tires seem to really like that width as compared to the same tire on my R56 MINI with 7” wide wheels. I would think the 215 tire would be just fine on an 8” wide wheel.
If you go with the 225 wide tire, just watch the inside of the wheel well arch for tire wear through the liner and on the metal. You don’t want the tire being sliced by the wheel well lip.
FWIW - My JCW is basically stock. The only change I have made is the addition of the JCW Pro suspension (coilovers). It has minimal factory camber up front. This limits the effectiveness of a wider tire and you maybe just as well off with the 215 tire as a 225 tire. Just a thought.
My 'rule' is that I'm sticking with street tires (have some 215 RE71rs left over from the '12), at least for a year or two, never say nver. I will also be using the '16 JCW as a year round floater vehicle for myself and kids (will have 3 young drivers in the house starting early next year). That said, I'm hoping to keep the stock factory shocks (adjustable damping) and springs. I MAY go with a very slightly lowered springs, but will be relying on the sways and an aggressive alignment to keep my tire wear acceptable. Main goal is to have something fun, reliable, not too hard on tires for my eldest and myself to drive at the track (he's limited to 4 days). I will likely do about 10 track days in the car myself if it meets those 3 criteria. I hope it can play with some of the other fast-'slower' cars out there, which I already know it should. That said, I'm not going for ultimate track times.
Sorry for the long explanation... So, basically, I want to obviously maximize the rubber on the road. 215's seem pretty small compared to the 335's I'm running on the rear of the Z06!! haha Was hoping at least to end up with some 225's! But, hoping to learn from others that have been through all of this already!
P.S. I have been working through your 2019 'Albert' thread Eddie and have been taking notes! Thanks for all the details, I'm still catching up. haha
Last edited by RodGP; 12-26-2023 at 11:06 AM. Reason: wording update
#1185
Can you let me know how much camber these can do stock and how much lowered you are? I was able to get -1.6 on the front and better than -2.0 rear on the '12 JCW. I settled on -1.6f/-1.9r and it wasn't enough to keep the tire wear even in the front.
How is your tire wear with your alignment?
How is your tire wear with your alignment?
#1186
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Can you let me know how much camber these can do stock and how much lowered you are? I was able to get -1.6 on the front and better than -2.0 rear on the '12 JCW. I settled on -1.6f/-1.9r and it wasn't enough to keep the tire wear even in the front.
How is your tire wear with your alignment?
How is your tire wear with your alignment?
First - the eDLC is a killer of brake pads and it can not be turned off. It is tied into the ABS system and the only way to kill that is to pull the fuse. Personally, I am not a fan of turning off the nannies. I run with full (street) level of traction control. Driving right, and it almost never comes on.
Second - the EBC Reds are not a track pad and I have seen more than one case of those “disapearing” in a day on the track in MINIs. Nothing with “street” in the name should be used on the track in a MINI, especially with your experience. I run Carbotech XP12s front and rear on my F56 JCW and I am currently thinking of going to the next level up (XP16?). I’ll get 5 - 6 days from a set of pads. Hawk DTC 60 (I have used), and Pagid, PFC (have not used) are options.
About the eDLC - it does OK on a long track like Watkins Glen with the right pads. As for Camber up front, it is not adjustable on a stock MINI without camber plates. My JCW is at -0.6 deg. Again, OK for WGI, but totally a tire killer at a tight track like Lime Rock Park. -2 to -3 deg will be needed to cut down on tire wear there. For a tight track think about adding caster (Power Flex has caster bushings for the front lower control arms).
Mechanical LSD - Quaife (I have in my R56) and Wave Trac are popular for MINIs.
I really like your idea of bigger front and rear sway bars, which I have in my R56. However, with the F56, I am thrilled with the handling with the JCW Pro coilovers. They are as good for handling as the swaybar change and better ride. Something to think about. That said, my JCW started out with the conventional suspension, so maybe, the adjustable ride is better for the track? Don’t know. If you lower either MINI, stick with less than 1” drop so as to not get into roll center issues.
Say, this is getting pretty far off topic here. Feel free to post on my Albert thread if you want and we can discuss further…
PS - MINIs are a hoot, right?
#1187
#1188
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Welcome to NAM and the wonderful, wacky world of MINIs.
What size tires are you planning to put on those wheels?
I have not seen anyone put that large of wheels on the MINIs and there is not a lot of room in the MINI’s wheel wells for overly large tires/wheels. My experience with 7.5”x17 et 40 wheels with 225-45x17 tires is that they will will rub the inside of the rear wheel well arch. An ET 25, 9” wide wheel will worsen that issue. Not sure how to make them fit without major modification to the wheel wells and/or very aggressive camber.
In the front, my tire/wheel combination barely clears the strut. A 9” wide wheel will move the side of the tire further inboard by over an inch. The ET 25 will move the wheel 15mm (about 5/8”) outboard, which means there will be about about 1/2” or more of interference between the tire and strut. Spacers might help, but then you might run into interference issues between the tire and wheel well.
It will be interesting to see if you can make those wheels fit. Keep us posted.
#1189
I had run front camber plates and run my camber at -2.5*. I still get occasional minor rubbing at full compression in corners.
your wheels will poke out a fair amount beyond mine, so unless you are running a goofy looking amount of camber or do a set of wide fenders I wouldn’t expect those wheels to fit.
but since you already have try them out, maybe you’ll find a way to make it work and make it look good
#1190
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#1193
Mines an SE, so can't do many laps. I may try a time trial, though. I also want to keep it in SCCA solo street class, so limited mods. CR-S like to be hot. It's the main reason I chose them for the front over re71rs. Way more grip than RT660.
#1194
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Crazy that you have shoehorned that much rubber into those wheel wells. I get rubbing on the wheel well liner in the rear with 215/45x17 on my F56. The 225/45x17s I tried were even worse (not surprising).
How is braking with -4 deg camber in front? I have read that much beyond -3 deg and there is little contact patch to support braking and the fronts lock up easily.
What track is that?
#1195
fitment...
So... looking into getting some new wheels...
Got a couple of alternatives...
first of all... ive ordered lowering springs... from H&R... should lower 40mm front and 35mm in the back..
the wheel sizes im looking into are:
7,5x18 in ET38 or ET46
OR
8x19 ET40, ET44, ET45 or ET46
have no clue on tire size yet... Im looking for an aggressive stance.. without rubbing!
please advice and share you experiences!
Got a couple of alternatives...
first of all... ive ordered lowering springs... from H&R... should lower 40mm front and 35mm in the back..
the wheel sizes im looking into are:
7,5x18 in ET38 or ET46
OR
8x19 ET40, ET44, ET45 or ET46
have no clue on tire size yet... Im looking for an aggressive stance.. without rubbing!
please advice and share you experiences!
#1196
66.6. Not 66.5.
I figure it's time to get this started as people are taking deliveries and some will be shopping for wheels.
OEM the car has a 5x112 bolt patter with 66.5 center bore in the following sizes:
16x6.5 ET: 54
17x7 ET: 54
18x7 ET: 54
Tirerack recommends anything from ET40 to ET50 in a 7"-7.5"width
I want to know if anyone has tried a 17x8 +35 offset?
I want them to have an aggressive fitment but not like hellacool hellaflush kids.
OEM the car has a 5x112 bolt patter with 66.5 center bore in the following sizes:
16x6.5 ET: 54
17x7 ET: 54
18x7 ET: 54
Tirerack recommends anything from ET40 to ET50 in a 7"-7.5"width
I want to know if anyone has tried a 17x8 +35 offset?
I want them to have an aggressive fitment but not like hellacool hellaflush kids.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post