Inexpensive, Simple Brake Feel Mod
#26
#28
SumWon,
I checked your link, they stated the kit fits both front and rear calipers. The picture of the kit shows 4 bushings and pins. Since each caliper would use 2 bushings and 2 pins this kit only covers one end on the Mini. Two kits are required if you want it at both ends. It's still a good price.
Dan
I checked your link, they stated the kit fits both front and rear calipers. The picture of the kit shows 4 bushings and pins. Since each caliper would use 2 bushings and 2 pins this kit only covers one end on the Mini. Two kits are required if you want it at both ends. It's still a good price.
Dan
#32
Wow, now i have to rethink getting the Willwood kit for 16in wheels (wasn't going to happen very soon anyways). Not sure, i'm still VERY spoiler from having amazing stock brakes in my SVT Focus and i want that stand on its nose feel back.
I basically lost last years local STX championship in the last corner of my last run of the day because the brakes just couldn't get the car down for the last corner.....
Thanx for the great thread Andy, i might just have to try these UNTIL i get the Willwood kit.
I basically lost last years local STX championship in the last corner of my last run of the day because the brakes just couldn't get the car down for the last corner.....
Thanx for the great thread Andy, i might just have to try these UNTIL i get the Willwood kit.
#33
I've had them on for a couple of months.
Well worth it. I had a bit of squeal when I first put them on (we had a lot of rain) but none in quite a while. This weekend will be the first track day. I have EBC green and I had fade at the last open track I did. I'll see if the better allignement works better this weekend. I too don't know if I'll spring for a brake upgrade. I also have PowerSlot front rotors, and SS lines in front, but not back (long story there, but what do you want for free?). So I'm hoping for some improvement.
For about $130 including shipping, an excellent mod and overperforms expectations.
Matt
For about $130 including shipping, an excellent mod and overperforms expectations.
Matt
#34
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: a canyon, south Bay Area
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First, thank you Andy for starting this thread! And Mat, thanks for telling me about it
Since I didn't see any photos of this "kit" installed, I thought I would provide one here...
I did a pad install at the same time, so I can't accurately attribute what did what, but I like the feeling! I'll be doing some rear braided stainless steel brake lines next, and my braking mods will be complete...
Oh, for those who want a tool for compressing caliper pistons, the one at Harbor Freight is 50% off, and I got it for 21 dollars and change
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732
Since I didn't see any photos of this "kit" installed, I thought I would provide one here...
I did a pad install at the same time, so I can't accurately attribute what did what, but I like the feeling! I'll be doing some rear braided stainless steel brake lines next, and my braking mods will be complete...
Oh, for those who want a tool for compressing caliper pistons, the one at Harbor Freight is 50% off, and I got it for 21 dollars and change
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732
#35
I just installed my kit this past weekend. Fairly simple job although I did have to file the rear upper boss so that the "C" clip would fit into the slot of the bushing. Also blead the brakes (ATE Blue) while I was at it. Is there a difference? The answer is . Not huge... but well worth the cost and effort:smile:
#36
rear bushing loose fit
Ok. I just got done with doing the tyrolsport bushings, and hawk hps pads. Actually, I'm slightly more than half way done.
The front brass bushings went in nice and tight on sunday. I did that along with hawk hps pads up front, and the car definitely stops a lot quicker.
I just did a rear caliper, and the brass bushings were very loose. I'd say there was 1/8 inch play in them from end to end, after putting on the snap rings.. I was pretty nervous with this, and put the old rubber busings back in (along with some more hawk hps pads for the rear).
I still have all the old bushings. The front and rear rubber, and original pins appear to be identical front to back. What gives? Should there be that much slop? I haven't contacted Tyrolsport yet, since it's 8:30 pm. I'll call them tomorrow. I have an '05 MCSC. Could they have changed the rear caliper for '05? Would you have kept it that way, or put the rubber back in?
Thumbs up to the guy that gave the harbor freight tip. I got that kit for $20, and it does make compressing the pistons really easy. Two thumbs up for scobib who wrote the pdf instructions. Tyrolsport doesn't send any, just a zip lock baggie of parts.
Thanks,
-Andy
The front brass bushings went in nice and tight on sunday. I did that along with hawk hps pads up front, and the car definitely stops a lot quicker.
I just did a rear caliper, and the brass bushings were very loose. I'd say there was 1/8 inch play in them from end to end, after putting on the snap rings.. I was pretty nervous with this, and put the old rubber busings back in (along with some more hawk hps pads for the rear).
I still have all the old bushings. The front and rear rubber, and original pins appear to be identical front to back. What gives? Should there be that much slop? I haven't contacted Tyrolsport yet, since it's 8:30 pm. I'll call them tomorrow. I have an '05 MCSC. Could they have changed the rear caliper for '05? Would you have kept it that way, or put the rubber back in?
Thumbs up to the guy that gave the harbor freight tip. I got that kit for $20, and it does make compressing the pistons really easy. Two thumbs up for scobib who wrote the pdf instructions. Tyrolsport doesn't send any, just a zip lock baggie of parts.
Thanks,
-Andy
#37
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: a canyon, south Bay Area
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Hi Andy, I'm the guy who mentioned the 20 buck deal; and I'm glad a few of us got in on it!
I included a thumbnail photo above... Does that look like what you have? It did appear odd to me as well at the time, but then I recall the terminology of a floating caliper, and I was more at ease...
I included a thumbnail photo above... Does that look like what you have? It did appear odd to me as well at the time, but then I recall the terminology of a floating caliper, and I was more at ease...
#38
Originally Posted by Tonyb
I included a thumbnail photo above... Does that look like what you have? It did appear odd to me as well at the time, but then I recall the terminology of a floating caliper, and I was more at ease...
The fronts were a really tight fit, and with the rears so loose, I figured something was wrong. If the collar gets slammed hard, I was worried the snap ring could break. I was also worried about vibration. When you think about it though, the force would be on the collar side, not the snap ring side. I guess it couldn't come apart. I just think it shouldn't have any play.
#40
Called Tyrolsport
I called tyrolsport, and he said that end to end play should not be a problem, and that I would not get any bad vibrations. Or good vibrations for that matter... He said that tolerance on the mini brake casting is pretty high, and that they get some people that say the busings are too small for their rear calipers.
In any case, he seemed to be pretty confident that it was ok, and told me to call if I had the slightest issue or question with the fit. I got the impression that they are the kind of company that will go out of their way to support a customer.
I agree that there's no way the busing could come out with the caliper assembled, and the force on the collar should be on the sholder side, not the snap ring side, so I guess I'll put them back in. Not this weekend though...
-Andy
In any case, he seemed to be pretty confident that it was ok, and told me to call if I had the slightest issue or question with the fit. I got the impression that they are the kind of company that will go out of their way to support a customer.
I agree that there's no way the busing could come out with the caliper assembled, and the force on the collar should be on the sholder side, not the snap ring side, so I guess I'll put them back in. Not this weekend though...
-Andy
#41
Originally Posted by andy@ross-tech.com
Prior to a track event at Pocono, I got a pair of Brake Caliper Stiffening Kits from Tyrolsport:
http://www.tyrolsport.com/Products.htm
It turns out the MINI has rubber bushings around the caliper guide pins both front and rear (VW/Audi tend to only have rubber bushings in the front). So, the MINI takes two sets, while VW/Audi use one.
The idea behind this mod is pretty simple - by replacing the rubber bushings with bronze ones, flex is reduced, allowing the pads to remain parallel to the rotors instead of flexing due to varying loads. The net result is improved pedal feel with more predictable stopping force for a given pedal movement.
I ran ~100 laps at Pocono with my Ferodo DS-2500's on stock rotors. On each lap, I braked hard from 110 mph down to ~70 mph coming off the banking, and each time the feel was solid and sure without a hint of fade.
There is lots of test data on the Tyrolsport site and I am very happy with the product.
BTW, I brought new brake fluid with me to the track, in anticipation of needing to bleed it, but since fade didn't present itself, I didn't do any bleeding or fluid change. Unlike stainless brake lines, the "stiffies" were installed without removing or adding any fluid.
http://www.tyrolsport.com/Products.htm
It turns out the MINI has rubber bushings around the caliper guide pins both front and rear (VW/Audi tend to only have rubber bushings in the front). So, the MINI takes two sets, while VW/Audi use one.
The idea behind this mod is pretty simple - by replacing the rubber bushings with bronze ones, flex is reduced, allowing the pads to remain parallel to the rotors instead of flexing due to varying loads. The net result is improved pedal feel with more predictable stopping force for a given pedal movement.
I ran ~100 laps at Pocono with my Ferodo DS-2500's on stock rotors. On each lap, I braked hard from 110 mph down to ~70 mph coming off the banking, and each time the feel was solid and sure without a hint of fade.
There is lots of test data on the Tyrolsport site and I am very happy with the product.
BTW, I brought new brake fluid with me to the track, in anticipation of needing to bleed it, but since fade didn't present itself, I didn't do any bleeding or fluid change. Unlike stainless brake lines, the "stiffies" were installed without removing or adding any fluid.
Did you notice any difference in the I/D of bushing bores between calipers (front vs rear or other)? etickt noticed endplay, and I believe one of mine has an oversized bore. 3 went in fine - no slop. One feels loose in the bore.
Anyone else done this mod? Experiences...? If slop then which wheel(s)?
TIA
#42
I had to grind material off the calipers to get the bushing to fit deep enough to get the snap ring on. One of the four busings was a little loose. These have been on for 2 months and one track day without any problems or noise.
If the rubber can live, the bronze should have no problems with breaking. The peddle feel is better, firmer than before. With the ATE Blue fluid and Fedoro 2500 pads I had no sign's of fade during the five 20 min track sessions. Cheaper than going to a BBK even if lower on the bling scale.:smile:
Dan
If the rubber can live, the bronze should have no problems with breaking. The peddle feel is better, firmer than before. With the ATE Blue fluid and Fedoro 2500 pads I had no sign's of fade during the five 20 min track sessions. Cheaper than going to a BBK even if lower on the bling scale.:smile:
Dan
#43
Originally Posted by minimc
Andy,
Did you notice any difference in the I/D of bushing bores between calipers (front vs rear or other)? etickt noticed endplay, and I believe one of mine has an oversized bore. 3 went in fine - no slop. One feels loose in the bore.
Anyone else done this mod? Experiences...? If slop then which wheel(s)?
TIA
Did you notice any difference in the I/D of bushing bores between calipers (front vs rear or other)? etickt noticed endplay, and I believe one of mine has an oversized bore. 3 went in fine - no slop. One feels loose in the bore.
Anyone else done this mod? Experiences...? If slop then which wheel(s)?
TIA
#46
#47
#48
#49
OK, so what is the performance/braking difference between braided stainless steel lines and Brake Caliper Stiffening Kits. Both of these kits can be obtained for approx. $120. I understand that when the brake lines are installed, the brake fluid should be flushed/replaced and that with the stiffening kit you don't need to mess with the brake fluid.
Which is better bang for the buck ? ? ? ?
Which is better bang for the buck ? ? ? ?
#50
Join Date: Apr 2003
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Hi paddy! First, I did both at the same time, in the rear only, so I can't tell you which one is "better" per se. Since both are relatively cheap mods, and in the same area, that is why I did them together...
The installation of these stiffer bushes does not mandate a brake bleed of the fluid. However, if one chooses to replace lines, because the system is being opened, and exposed to air, bleeding is most certainly in order...
The installation of these stiffer bushes does not mandate a brake bleed of the fluid. However, if one chooses to replace lines, because the system is being opened, and exposed to air, bleeding is most certainly in order...