Yep that's the one. So you pushed the screwdriver through the bushing?? And the slotted part of the screwdriver pushed it through?

I'm going to take another crack at it in the morning. Thanks.

Richard

 

Not much. What's snow with you?











Hey, somebody had to say it.

 

but cold enough for a fire in the fireplace!

Richard, I just grabbed the rubber guides with a pair of vicegrips and pulled them through. A bit brutal but they survived.....


Matt

 

Thanks Matt,

I'll give it another shot tomorrow!

Richard

 

Yup, not very much force required at all...It seems kind of snug because it is formed to fit around the hole....so you just gently bend one side with the screwdriver and then you can push it right through.

 

Ok I did the mod today. I just grabbed the edge of the rubber sleeve and pulled hard and slightly to the side and it popped out. I

If you can change your pads, you can do this mod. I took lots of pictures and will have my own version of the writeup soon.

I haven't had a chance to test it yet cause the dealer stripped 2 lug bolts and I'm off to get new ones. I don't get them, why do they just power them off if there is resistance? My impact wrench that does 250 ft lbs couldn't loosen them.

Richard

Richard

 

I just ran a series of hard stops from 40 to 0. Strange I couldn't get my ABS to activate. Actually first several stops were a bit mushy, but after about 10 stops, I could smell my brake pads, and there were becoming grippy again.

I got Mintex Red Box pads. Thing I noticed was that they were kinda rounded on the top edge on the outside (wheel side). Is that due to uneven wear? The back side pad on other side of rotor is fine and edges are squared.

Looking forward to testing it out some more!

 

For anyone interested in how to install this mod, I created a writeup here

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...126#post633126

 

Would anyone know if this mod will fit the JCW brake kit? Thanks

 

Can anyone share this pdf with me? I plan to do this mod within the next 2-3 weeks and would love some reading material to help out. I clicked on the link, but it's no longer valid.

Thanks in advance,
Gary

 

Take off the caliper. This is done by using an allen wrench to remove the caliper slides. You can pull the caliper off now. If there's a ridge on the edge of the disk, you may have to fight a bit.
Get some pliers, grab the rubber gides and pull them off. They pop off pretty easily.
Put a bushing in. I put mine in from the disk side. That way if the spring clip fails, the bushing can't fall out... It will bump into the disk (no one's reported this, but what they hay...)
Use some spring clip pliers (can get them for cheap at Sears or Harbor Freight or the like) to put the clip on. You may want to put a film of lube on the inside of the bushing now... But the guide pin may push a bunch out...
Replace the caliper. If you had a big ridge, it helps to compress the pad with a BIG C-clamp. On the rears, you may need a special tool. They're referenced in the thread... The rear has the parking break, and the piston won't just compress.
Now you can put some lube on the guide pins. Thread 'em in and torque 'em down.
You're done. Go drive and enjoy!
Check every couple of months to see if they're lubed.

Matt

 

Did you read POST #108--two posts below yours? It has all the pictures and descriptions of the PDF and more.

Richard

 

Guess there's more than one lazy reader out there!

Matt

 

It's no longer valid because I left that company...

I can email it to you if you'd like...

 

nope, different type of sliding mechanism.

 

the stock one is somewhat insufficient!

Matt

 

Doh...I can't believe I didn't see that great write up!!!! Yep, I'm definitely a lazy reader

Thanks for your help guys!!!!!!!!!

Gary

 

I went to the reviews section today, to use the link for the review on these suckers that I put there, and despite all the good info on them in the threads, there's only one review there, mine. So get off your duffs, and write up your impressions there! Without input, the reveiws section will be a total waste of space. And if we all put our reviews there, people will be able to find information, without having to ask the same questions, or do the search and sift through all the posts!

It will make our space a better, more usefull one, so just do it!

Matt

 

I did the front and rear bushings, SS lines and ATE fluid this weekend.
Already had the EBC disc and green pads.

This DOES make a big difference !!!
Now I am inspired to do cooling ducts

 

Too cool is not cool all the time...brakes need heat to work. Just a friendly reminder.

 

Heads up. Don't get bumped on a technicality. Racing in a stock class? The brass bushings sound like a great idea for some. For those who plan to race in S.C.C.A "STOCK" classes, I think this mod would be illegal. Check your "STOCK CATEGORY" rules which stipulate "alternate components....must be essentially identical to standard parts (e.g. have the same type, size,hardness,weight,material etc.) " yada yada. Please correct me if I am mistaken. I'd love to use these darnd things.
JD

 

True - but, I give my lowbuck brake ducts credit for allowing me to run stock brakes (with Cobalt GTS pads and Ate fluid) and never experience fade at track days... And, for the pads lasting what seems like eons on the track and autocross versus some other buds that have lasted 2-3 track days or are dead after 1 season of autocrossing and daily driving...

 

Just got my bushings - front and rear. Are they the same? Mine are identical.

 

They are all the same...

 

Amen to the value of this brake upgrade!
I'm without a Bentley or Haynes Manual-what is the recommended torque number for the 7MM allen head guide pins?
thank you for your time.
MOTORRR