Stock size rotor options?
#1
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: a canyon, south Bay Area
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Stock size rotor options?
As some of you know, I'm contemplating a brake upgrade quite soon. If I find a BBK to be the way to go, I already have my choice - RL's B3 for 16's...
I however might want to keep the stock size, but go with something slotted though. After doing some searching and reading here, this is what I found for OEM replacements:
Power Slot
SP
Racing Brake
EBC
Did I miss any (I'm sure that I must have)? Any commentary would also be appreciated. Also, for a second question, has anyone gone with aftermkt calipers with such a rotor upgrade? I did not find anything on that front...
Thanks a bunch!
I however might want to keep the stock size, but go with something slotted though. After doing some searching and reading here, this is what I found for OEM replacements:
Power Slot
SP
Racing Brake
EBC
Did I miss any (I'm sure that I must have)? Any commentary would also be appreciated. Also, for a second question, has anyone gone with aftermkt calipers with such a rotor upgrade? I did not find anything on that front...
Thanks a bunch!
#5
I am pondering replacing my rotors with stock-size rotors as well. When I installed my Ferodo DS-2500's, I observed quite a bit of wear on the 20k stock rotors. Does anyone have any test data that supports the purported benefits of slotted rotors, specifically in terms of fade resistance and braking repeatability? I have seen such data for big brake kits, like the Stoptech. It seems to me there is a trade-off between gas venting (that slots of holes provide) versus the reduction in surface area and heatsink mass that comes from removing rotor material.
#6
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Alex, Power Slots were my original first choice for a stock replacement rotor, but mostly because I've been able to read more commentary about them. The dba's offer the Kangaroo paw design that looks pretty appealing:
http://www.dba.com.au/kanga_paw_design.asp
What is it exactly about the Power Slots that makes you prefer them?
Like Andy, I have reason to believe that since my stockers can stop my MCS very well when cool, the biggest issue is fade, which for me is seldom (I don't track her), but when it does happen, it's one time too many...
Maybe with slotted rotors, an ideal pad choice, better fluid and lines, I can get the consistency that I seek without any added rotational masses (BBK). I'm also very interested in changing-out the caliper as I do like the ability to easily replace pads, a nice feature of many after mkt calipers. Again, has anyone gone with after mkt calipers on stock or stock replacement rotors? They also can shave another pound or two over the stock ones...
I guess I see the possiblility of dramatically increasing my braking ability (consistency) without the further addition of rotational mass, and maybe decreasing overall weight and making future pad changes easier with an after mkt caliper...
http://www.dba.com.au/kanga_paw_design.asp
What is it exactly about the Power Slots that makes you prefer them?
Like Andy, I have reason to believe that since my stockers can stop my MCS very well when cool, the biggest issue is fade, which for me is seldom (I don't track her), but when it does happen, it's one time too many...
Maybe with slotted rotors, an ideal pad choice, better fluid and lines, I can get the consistency that I seek without any added rotational masses (BBK). I'm also very interested in changing-out the caliper as I do like the ability to easily replace pads, a nice feature of many after mkt calipers. Again, has anyone gone with after mkt calipers on stock or stock replacement rotors? They also can shave another pound or two over the stock ones...
I guess I see the possiblility of dramatically increasing my braking ability (consistency) without the further addition of rotational mass, and maybe decreasing overall weight and making future pad changes easier with an after mkt caliper...
#7
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I just heard back from Al at Man-a-fre (in Simi Valley, CA) who carries the dba's. I've dealt with this company before when I had an FJ-40 LandCruiser!
The price is very good for their slotted:
170 for the front pair (weight = 13 lbs)
150 for the rear... (weight = 8 lbs)
This PDF has their whole selection:
http://www.dba.com.au/dba_catalogue_...tion_Chart.pdf
From this PDF, it seems that the normal or long-life might not be the best for higher speeds...
The price is very good for their slotted:
170 for the front pair (weight = 13 lbs)
150 for the rear... (weight = 8 lbs)
This PDF has their whole selection:
http://www.dba.com.au/dba_catalogue_...tion_Chart.pdf
From this PDF, it seems that the normal or long-life might not be the best for higher speeds...
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#9
Originally Posted by andy@ross-tech.com
I am pondering replacing my rotors with stock-size rotors as well. When I installed my Ferodo DS-2500's, I observed quite a bit of wear on the 20k stock rotors. Does anyone have any test data that supports the purported benefits of slotted rotors, specifically in terms of fade resistance and braking repeatability? I have seen such data for big brake kits, like the Stoptech. It seems to me there is a trade-off between gas venting (that slots of holes provide) versus the reduction in surface area and heatsink mass that comes from removing rotor material.
#10
Well, the term "friction surface area" would be more appropriate than just "surface area" in this case. Slotting and drilling reduces the total area the brake pads sweep against, which will reduce braking power slightly. Once temperatures rise, however, slotting can expel gases that would otherwise form a boundary between pad and rotor. Cross-drilled rotors tend to have problems with cracking when used for track days, from what I've seen, chamfered or not. One reason I've heard for this is that cross-drilled rotors actually cool TOO quickly due to their larger surface area and reduced mass, which increases the stress placed on the rotor due to rapid heat cycling. Go take a really hot glass and drop it in some ice water and you'll see what I mean (I kid! Don't do it!).
Originally Posted by polmear
Wouldn't holes and slots improve surface area? It would certainly remove heat-sink mass. Core and fin geometry might have to be altered to put holes in, which would affect the SA. Being that fade is directly related to heat dissipation, I would venture a guess that slight improvements would be seen with slots.
#11
Originally Posted by polmear
Wouldn't holes and slots improve surface area? It would certainly remove heat-sink mass. Core and fin geometry might have to be altered to put holes in, which would affect the SA. Being that fade is directly related to heat dissipation, I would venture a guess that slight improvements would be seen with slots.
Compared to the stock rotor, when you use rotors with slots or cross drilled holes you will LOOSE surface area , up to about 30+% in some cases when you have both. You do have the lost weight-(small savings) and the release of boundary gases. You do get a little "bite" on the brake pads from the rough edge of the slots or holes but that doesn't have that much affect on stopping.
Mostly the goal is to use good pads that tolerate heat well and a good flat surface area to contact with the rotor. Reducing heat in all brake components is always helpful.
So in my book a simple powerslot rotor is better than the same rotor with dimples or any holes.
#12
Originally Posted by minihune
Polmear,
Compared to the stock rotor, when you use rotors with slots or cross drilled holes you will LOOSE surface area , up to about 30+% in some cases when you have both. You do have the lost weight-(small savings) and the release of boundary gases. You do get a little "bite" on the brake pads from the rough edge of the slots or holes but that doesn't have that much affect on stopping.
Mostly the goal is to use good pads that tolerate heat well and a good flat surface area to contact with the rotor. Reducing heat in all brake components is always helpful.
So in my book a simple powerslot rotor is better than the same rotor with dimples or any holes.
Compared to the stock rotor, when you use rotors with slots or cross drilled holes you will LOOSE surface area , up to about 30+% in some cases when you have both. You do have the lost weight-(small savings) and the release of boundary gases. You do get a little "bite" on the brake pads from the rough edge of the slots or holes but that doesn't have that much affect on stopping.
Mostly the goal is to use good pads that tolerate heat well and a good flat surface area to contact with the rotor. Reducing heat in all brake components is always helpful.
So in my book a simple powerslot rotor is better than the same rotor with dimples or any holes.
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