How do you know if you need new brake pads?
#1
#2
Originally Posted by samawil
Like the title says, how do you know when you need new brake pads?
Also, on oem setting, is it really recommended that you change the pads and rotors?
Thanks,
Louay
Also, on oem setting, is it really recommended that you change the pads and rotors?
Thanks,
Louay
Just kidding, you will know it when it's time. Depending on what year your car is (mine is a July 02 build and does not have the sensor) you might have the "brake sensor" on the left front and right rear pad. Which I assume will light up the P-brake light when pad wear reaches its limit. Or you'll get the normal indication that the pads are toast, a loud squeal when braking.
Mini puts the minimum pad thickness at 3mm or 1/8th inch, you should be checking this when/if you rotate your tires. There is no need to remove the caliper, just look at inner and outer pads and eye ball it.
There is no need to replace the rotors when you replace the pads. Replace the rotors when they reach their wear limit of 19mm (front) and 7mm (rear) or they are damaged i.e. gouged, warped etc.
Remember to always replace the pads in axle sets and to machine or replace the rotors in pairs. MINI also recommends that new pads go onto new rotors.
BTW the pic is of my inner rear pad and its replacement, the outer pad was replaced also but still had 2/3 of its life left. Point being, make sure you look at both pads, inner and outer.
Hope this helped.
#4
Originally Posted by samawil
Like the title says, how do you know when you need new brake pads?
Also, on oem setting, is it really recommended that you change the pads and rotors?
Thanks,
Louay
Also, on oem setting, is it really recommended that you change the pads and rotors?
Thanks,
Louay
You can check regularly for wear especially uneven wear. Most times the front will wear out faster than the rear but not always. Hard braking on the track and at autocross will result in more heat and more wear on your pads.
From http://www.tirerack.com/a.jsp?a=EZ3&...e_warning.html
"Brake pads should typically be replaced when approximately 1/8" to 3/16" of friction material remains on the steel backing plate."
Also check brake rotors for wear-
"Brake rotors should be replaced before their thickness has reached the prescribed "Worn Rotor Minimum Thickness" limit (expressed in millimeters) engraved on the edge of the brake disc.
Plain brake rotors may be turned on a brake lathe to remove scoring and to true the disc surfaces until this minimum thickness has been reached. Drilled and slotted rotors may not be able to be turned and should be replaced if they become scored."
Drilled rotors are especially prone to micro cracks with heavy use.
Last edited by Alex@tirerack; 12-07-2004 at 12:32 PM. Reason: added tracking inforation, giving NAM more click thru credit!
#5
I changed to my snow today and noticed the front rotors developing a nice lip. I am assuming the pad thickness is the same as my BMW so I would figure I'm a little below 1/2 original thickness.
How many miles can I expect to get on the original pads and rotors?
It's my wife's car and I don't exactly know how brisk she drives.
I don't want to know.
I'm figuring it will need pads and rotors when it is due for the next inspection. I have around 22K now and due for inspection at around 26K.
I guess it is time for me to read what is covered under warranty.
How many miles can I expect to get on the original pads and rotors?
It's my wife's car and I don't exactly know how brisk she drives.
I don't want to know.
I'm figuring it will need pads and rotors when it is due for the next inspection. I have around 22K now and due for inspection at around 26K.
I guess it is time for me to read what is covered under warranty.
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#12
Originally Posted by RallyMINI
I have a question. My rear brakes are obviously done. The rotors are pretty worn and so are the calipers. When does the brake light come on? I figure they must be past time to need changing? I have it scheduled to go in but wonder why the light isnt on?
Randy
#13
Originally Posted by early_apex
sounds like you have a defective caliper
I thought it was the self centering bolt/slide part that failed, and wasn't allowing the caliper to re-center. The MINI tech thought it was the e-brake mechanism that failed, and wasn't allowing the piston to retrack all the way.
Regardless, both rear calipers were replaced under warranty and I was reimbursed for the cost of the pads that I had purchased. The calipers were sent off for inspection, still waiting on the results.
#14
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