I'm interested in geeting some feedback from users that have done this mod. Pros and cons needed. For info on the product look here.

 

While I can't speak for the vendor or manufacture directly, the product as a whole is one used on many of the BBKs on the market. If and when you fit larger brakes to the car you may well need at least some wheel spacer, this in turn requires you change to studs from the current lug bolt. The stock lug bolts will NOT fit ANY wheel spacer. I speak from experience on this one as my Street Sport kit still uses a spacer of .065" and needs this mod.

A nice touch on one brand is the socket head or allen drive of the stud to turn it in with rather than the old 'double nut' it to install method.

Red loctite the studs in place and do you best to torque it or at least snug it up well prior to fitting the nuts.

 

Studs make it easier to change wheels - a lot easier. They also makes it possible to use an impact wrench to spin the nuts off and on. (They should be cracked loose before removal and tightened with a torque wrench when putting them back on. I was told to use loctite blue byu the vendor. The allen heads serve the purpose of not allowing too much torque when you turn the studes into the hub. Be careful with this.

 

I replaced my lug bolts with studs out of long habit. All it takes is on opportunity to be changing a wheel in the dark to convince you that having studs to hang the wheel on while you fumble around for the nuts is A Good Thing.

The set I have has the allen sockets on the studs for installation and that makes it a breeze to do. Do use locktite on the studs when you install them and not on the lug nuts or you'll just create the same situation that the lug bolts cause: no place to hang the wheel.

 

Has anyone done this conversion themselves? How difficult/involved is it?

I autocross, so I'm changing tires quite often - standard lugs would make life MUCH easier.

 

To convert this to studs?
If you can't do it all in an hour you shouldn't be allowed to work on your car.

 

I am in total agreement with you Tod. It is a mod well worth doing if you change your wheels and tires for different events etc. It is a very easy mod to perform at home. Just remember the lock tight

Randy
www.m7tuning.com

 

I did it with nuts from Pilo, very happy. Easy to install, you don't even have to jack up your car if you do one stud at a time.

 

I Love the idea of having studs. I doubt the leglity for certain SCCA classes though. Still being abe to hang a wheel/tire on the car sure beats out having to hold the wheel/tire and thread a bolt into the rotor.

 

I was told by an America's Tire Company mechanic that these studs are extremely dangerous because there are not enough threads to go into the hub. He refused to install them for me and sold me a crappy set of longer chrome bolts that have already began peeling. I feel like returning them and installing the studs myself.

 

Not enough threads on the studs?

The ones I put in here were fully engaged in the hub. Just as the stock bolts are. About 2 thread lands was needed for the .065" wheel spacer by my look.

The studs only need to be fully engaged in the hub; having them protrude beyond serves no value. If someone is selling studs that don't full engage the hub I'd keep looking however. The ones I used were from BMPdesign. With the alum lug nuts.

As for SCCA, I doubt they'd be smart enogh to know the difference. Don't get me started on SCCA tech....

 

There is the same amount of thread in contact with the hub as with the stock bolts. Not sure why they would say that. I have been running studs, Racing with studs, and have many miles on the conversion kit that I sell. I defiantly recommend putting them in with Lock-Tite for that extra bit of hold, but a properly torqued lug, will NOT come loose.

 

Studs allow for the following-

-Easier installation of wheel when doing changes at autocross/track or for a flat tire.
-Adjustment of length of stud to accommodate wheel spacers of various sizes- choose carefully since once the stud is locktite installed it might be tough to remove.
-Comparable or slightly lower weight vs lug bolts depending on the length and weight of the studs (longer studs = more weight)
-Various lightweight and colored nuts (can be expensive)
-Easy to do it yourself-jack up all four wheels on stands and do them all at one time. Let dry and set with locktite for one hour before installing wheels.
-Can use wheel locks but MUST use locks with standard steel set of nuts to balance out the heavier weight of the lock with each nut- do not use the light nuts with a wheel lock- It will be misbalanced.

A comment on weight- I weighed a set of stock lug bolts and it's about 9.5 ounces for a set of 4. I got a set of studs 58mm long (accepts up to 5 mm spacer) and set of steel nuts and it was about 10.5 ounces for a set of four.
I got the same set of studs and a set of 7075 aluminum 40mm tall nuts and it was 9.5 ounces for a set of four. Longer studs of about 80mm will allow for a larger wheel spacer but the added weight would be a minus as the studs are quite heavy.

What to order-
12x1.5 stud comes in 58mm (works fine, can use 5mm spacer) also 80mm
12x1.5 steel nuts with open or closed ends )open is lighter and works with any length stud)
12x1.5 alloy nut 40mm 7075 aluminum various colors-will scratch with wheel changes
12x1.5 Hex Lock nut set for four wheels and key ($19.95)

Installing studs. Remove wheel. Get each stud, short treaded end fits into MINI hub using red locktite, long treaded end gets two open ended nuts tightened together using wrenches. Now screw in the stud to the wheel with enough locktite and use the outer nut to tighten down. After letting it dry and set you can unlock the two nuts on the stud to reuse on another stud to install. If you use a single aluminum closed end nut to install and tighten the stud down you can damage the nut end when you torque it.

Have fun

 

An easier way to install (if not using spacers), is to remove 1-2 (opposite side) bolts at a time, then replace with the stud (coated with tome Lock Tite) and put in all the way (on the short threaded side) Then install the lug, and torque down. Ther repeat until all studs ar installed, no need to even get a jack :-)

 

Dan, I love the color of those nuts and the pricing seems excellent. I'm considering going to studs just cause I'm rotating my tires every 3,000 miles which is about once a month and I think studs would make the job a little faster. While I think I'd want to leave the great looking nuts exposed , is there any problem with using them behind the hubcap of a stock 5 star 16 alloy wheel??

 

A full covered lug will not fit behind the standard cap, you would have to use an Open stype that we have listed on the site.

 

How do you tighten the stud down before tightening with the nut? Use a pliers? The wheel is in the way with some aftermarket designs. I think the key problem is getting the stud to seat firmly and completely into the MINI hub and not get locktite on places where you don't want it- like on the wheel.
If the stud screws into the hub easily then no problem but if it is tight it could be harder to do.

 

Great thread...

I've been thinking about installing the Promini studs with the aluminum nuts
Studs: http://www.promini.com/product-exec/...category_id/38
Nuts: http://www.promini.com/product-exec/...category_id/38

I've got a couple of questions:
1) When installing the studs, I'll use red loctitie. Do I need to torque in the studs and if so, to what ft/lb? (I'm assuming that it would be the 90 ft/lb that I use for the current bolts and the loctite would prevent them from backing out on subsequent nut changes.)
2) If torquing in the studs, how is the best way to do it? Would I use the double nut method and torque using the outer nut?
3) Has anyone used the aluminum nuts on the 17" S-Lites? Do they fit?

__________________________
lexbomb

 

The studs I sell are tightened with an alen wrench, no need for pliers, and easy install with wheel inplace, and no chance of wreching the studs thread. There is an alen hole on the top of the stud to allow this.

The stud is inserted, and put in pretty tight by hand. You DO NOT want to torque it to 90 ft lbs because you can strip it. You do want the torque the lug down on the wheel to that setting though.

 

If you are looking for better performance, there is not much to be had by swapping the bolts to lugs, save the money on the aluminums, and get lighter rims.. those s-lites are a beast.

 

If enough people want the stud conversion kits, I can do a group buy on the Pilo Racing Kit. say, 25% off?

http://www.piloracing.com/shop/prodd...gNutKit&cat=18

 

Yeah... I know they are a beast. I'm hoping I can get a set of better wheels next spring before the race season starts.

I could go for the discount. I did look at the Pilo set, they look good, I do like the blue nuts. If you do set up a group buy, count me in. I'll take a set.
_______________________
lexbomb

 

Dan has the hot ticket for this and installing them. Double nutting them works and that type may be less expensive but there's a reason for paying the extra couple of bucks some times.

* I figure if you all get stud kits that you can fit small wheel spacers....then of course you'll want brakes to go with them! lol

 

ill take a kit as well. thanks

 

I want some clarification that this conversion will not bump me out of G-Stock in SCCA. If it does not, put me down for a set! I'll have to think about the lug nuts - I would like a locking nut, and something durable for frequent wheel changes. Does this loctite stuff come with the kit? As you can tell, I haven't looked into this very much, other than this thread.