I took a right hand turn just a tad too hot the other night and clipped a raised cement center divider with both driver's side wheels (sort of a sideswipe). I managed to limp it home the 3 or 4 blocks but have not driven it since to see how it is reacting (mainly due to the heavy, heavy rain here in So Cal so therefore not being able to listen for noises, etc too well). The front left wheel is obviously way out of alignment as the top of the wheel protrudes out about 1 1/2 to 2 inches more than the bottom. The rear looks about normal and nothing looks amiss on the passenger side front or rear.
I have had the car up on jacks and visually inspected everything front and rear with my "layman's eyes". I can see nothing obviously bent, broken or otherwise unusual. Is it possible that I may only need an alignment? Could a wheel stick out at such a weird angle if it is only in need of an alignment? Is it safe to drive it for repair in this condition or will I snap something?

Thanks,

Ken

 

No, this doesn't sound good at all.

Have your suspension parts checked front and rear and do the alignment.
If the top of the wheel sticks out more then you have changed from negative to positive camber which suggests that something is bent or broken since camber in the front is not adjustable in the MINI. Only toe settings are adjustable when doing alignment.

Also have your wheels each checked for damage.

 

Oh believe me even I can see the damage!! Four new wheels on order won't arrive until 3/15 so it's back to my S-Lites in the meantime. Thanks for the other notes about camber.

Ken

 

Glad to hear you were not injured- sorry that your MINI was.

4 major points to check when direct impact to a wheel occurs:

lower control arm
steering tie rod
knuckle and wheel bearing assembly
strut assembly

Here are a few preliminary visual checks you can perform yourself, if you have the means at hand to safely raise the car. They won't catch everything, but are a good starting point:

I would expect that the lower control arm and/or strut is bent, based on the degree of positive camber you described. Measure and compare the length of the arm between the inner mounting point(s) and the attachment point (ball joint) at the knuckle on both sides of the car to check this. Any significant discrepancy between sides is indicative of a bent part. The same method can be used to check tie rods.

Knuckle assemblies generally are very tough, and not usually damaged in an impact that leaves the car still able to move under its own power. However, if everything else that is bent or damaged is replaced, and things still are out of kilter, then this part may be affected.

Struts may be checked for bends by slightly loosening the strut shaft retaining nut (the big one in the center) at the top of the upper strut mount (accessed from under the bonnet.) There is usually a recessed hex or torx opening in the top of the strut shaft. This allows the strut shaft to be held still in order to tighten the retaining nut. Use this to slowly rotate the shaft once the nut is loosened. If the camber of the wheel changes as the shaft is rotated, the strut is bent, and needs to be replaced. Be sure to re-tighten the nut to the proper torque when this check is completed.

Damage to the wheel bearing can sometimes be felt by placing the car in neutral and rotating the affected wheel. The high side loads placed on the bearing during a wheel impact can crush rollers or ***** (depending on bearing type) into the bearing races, creating irregularities in the contact faces of the race or distorting the shape of the roller/ball. This typically produces a rough or "notchy" feel as the wheel is spun. Alternately, the car may exhibit a rumbling or growling noise from the affected bearing when the car is driven.

After the damage is repaired, ask for a full alignment to be performed, including measurement of steering axis inclination (SAI), and ask for a printed copy of a pre and post adjustment report. Modern alignment equipment has the ability to provide this, and asking for it keeps the tech honest. The report should list "before" and "after" actual readings, as well as the OEM nominal spec ranges for each measurement.

SAI is an item not typically measured during the standard "set the toe and let it go" cheapie alignment specials, but it is important, since out-of-spec SAI indicates damaged or out-of-position parts. SAI measurement is a bit of a PITA to do, so many techs skip it. This may be OK on a normal maintenence alignment job, but not for collision repair work. If the suspension parts of the affected corner are not bent (such is often the case at this stage, as all the known bad bits have been replaced prior to putting the car on the alignment rack), bad SAI is a clue that the mounting points on the unibody structure of the car may have shifted, and the car could require unibody work to correct this. Without an SAI measurement, the damage is often masked by compensating through adjustment of camber. Be wary if the shop you choose wants to install a "camber kit" on your car to increase the adjustment range for camber, but has not verified that SAI is correct.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery for your MINI...

 

Ditto INDYGOMINI......and don't forget to check the axel for stress cracks!!

 

Thanks for all of that detailed info Indygomini. At least I know where to start and what to say and ask. Don't know if I needed that p.s. DD