We love you anyhow. Despite your techs question. I'll make the assumption he means a proportioning valve. I don't know of any 'pressure regulator' in a BBK...The answer is 'no' and there is no need for one. The components of the kits are properly matched to the cars requirments. Hoses come with it (hopefully the right ones, but that's another thread) but no fluid. Nothing special required here, just some good old DOT3 or 4 is fine. Pick your fave.

 

hey tod! i've also been wearin' U out w/questions on the phone, glad to hear that this kit is totaly manned by the stock Mini system w/out proportioning valves...i've had mad nightmares w/a system that did on a chevy application and it was far from fun!!

 

Just installed my 11.75 race kit today!!!!

After a few installation headaches i finally got them on and working great so far. Just went through some bedding and the car is cooling off (ahhh the smell of brakes in the afternoon).

So now i can confirm that the 11.75 kit will fit on 16x7 Rota Grids with a 40mm offset. I'll also be testing my Rota Slipstreams tomorrow but i don't think it'll be any problem as they seem to have even more clearance than the Grids.

I'll take pictures as soon as i can

Ohh another quick question, did everybody take off their dust shield? Decided to keep it on to protect the rotor from debris and it fit fine with only a little bit of bending.

 

Okok...just 1 more quick question, I know, I lied. If there is no need for a pressure regulator in the BBK, and if it uses the same amount of pressure as the stock 1 piston brakes, would the pressure of the 4 piston BBK be split equally between the 4 pistons? If so, then how does it stop faster/shorter, besides the fact that it has a bigger contact patch with the rotor. Because technically, wouldn't it be using the same amount of force to clamp on the rotor as the stock 1 piston brakes?

 

I know the question is for Todd but I'll share my thoughts

If you have enough braking force to activate the ABS, then new brakes won't make you stop any faster or shorter than before. The advantages of a BBK are heat dissipation and less or no fade due to repeated hard stopping as at a track day. On the track, better heat management allows later braking w/o fade for faster track times.

If you want to stop in a shorter distance, you must increase the friction between the car and the road with better gripping tires.

If all you ever do is drive on the street, then a BBK is just bling. (which is perfectly OK by me because with many aftermarket wheels, the stock rotors look sooooo tiny)

 

That's pretty much the sum of it.

I'll expand a bit more;

The single piston puts out X pounds of clamp load via the one piston pushing and the bracket in turn pulling on the two pads. Under high load the pad deflects like a banana. Clamp and release of the rotor are marginal given the mechanical nature of the design.

A twin pot caliper does the same thing only spreads the load more evenly on the back of the inboard pad. A step in the right direction for pad control but still not the most efficient.

A multi piston, four pot, fixed caliper provided direct pressure to both sides of the rotor via the pistons (two per side) thus spreads the load AND offers quicker clamping and release characteristics.

The number of pistons can be from 1 to a 12 actually and if properly sized it will not change the total clamp force applied. Total piston area is far more critical than the qty. Yet some would have you believe just because there are more it must be better. Ok, to the point that you continue to spread the loads a bit better perhaps.

Pad size really has very little to do with it. A tall, skinny pad (when viewing) is far more effective at providing brake torque than a short, square one. One has a greater effective radius, the other a greater swept area. There are pros and cons to each. Most upper end race parts use the greater ER method.

 

Anybody?? :smile:

 

Took mine off, didn't even look to see if they would still work.

 

Fit with 3 mm wheel spacers. Without the spacers the caliper just barely skimmed the wheel spoke. The spacers were needed anyway however to make room for the 225/45 bfg's

 

Which kit is that? Looks like the 11.75 i'm guessing.... ?

 

yes it is

 

Here's my MCS wearing my autocross setup:

16x7 RotaSlipstreams 40mm offset Falken Azenis 215-45-16 in Full Royal Sports Bronze (custom ordered)







Clears with no problems:



I'll try to post Pics of the Grids also.

 

Anyone have the 11.75 Race kit on with 18s?

 

Is that 11.75" kit? Do they offer the slotted rotors for this size now?

 

Yup thats the 11.75 and they came slotted.

 

15x7.5, +43 SSR's fit the 11.75" Willwoods, with no spacer. They had apx. 1/4" clear to the spokes and < 3/16" to the outside. 16x8, +42 ce28n's had TON's of clearance.

 

Anyone done the 16x7 Rota Slipstreams ET40 or ET45 on a lowered car with Wilwoods? I have M7 springs now so sitting about 1.5" lower. I know a 16x7 ET45 running 205/45/16 works on stock rotors but wanting to get new AX Rota SS and 215/45/16 Azenis plus the Wilwood 11.75 fronts. I can go ET 40 if it will fit better without plates. My street wheels are currently 17" S-lites but will eventually be replaced with TD Pro Race 1.2 wheels. Suggestions??

 

I'm still searching for someone that will order a set of 16x7, +40 with the 56.1 centerbore... Grrrr...

 

Anyone know if OEM 15" Hollies will work?
or Volk ce28n 15x7 et42
pics?

 

i just added the TCE/Willwood BBK this week. total overkill for the street. stop at a yellow light in so. fla. and get rearended. that said, they look awesome and i'm headed to the track next weekend. they fit fine with the HRE's pictured (5mm spacer required to clear springs in front). even more clearance w/ my SSR type C-RS track wheels (17 X 7.5). they stop so well w/ my street tires that i can't wait to put on the r-comps.