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Brake Pads – What Do You Like and Why

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  #1  
Old 09-01-2005 | 01:27 PM
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sndwave
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Brake Pads – What Do You Like and Why

Like everything else everyone will have their own opinion and that’s good. I’m getting ready to do a brake job and would like to know what people think are great pads for the MCS and what they use them for.

I know there are many different brands out there and have a couple in mind, but would like to see what others say without knowing what I had in mind.

I do track days, Auto-x, very spirited daily driving and 3 or more Dragon trips a year. This last thing is why I’m changing. My trip in July to the Dragon seemed fine until the second day driving. My right front brake froze solid at a very critical turn and I almost drove straight in to the cliff ahead. After a minute or two as it cooled down it became unstuck and I could move again, but I took it very easy for the trip back to Fontana. I’m planning another trip there just over a month from now and will have changed pads before I go.

I’ll be switching to slotted rotors if this will make a difference in pads.
 
  #2  
Old 09-01-2005 | 01:51 PM
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From: St. Louis
I use Hawk HPS fronts and stock rears. The HPS pads are very low dust and hold up well on the street. For the track, I use Pagid blue race pads which work great with the stock rotors. Once my rotors are toast, I will get cryo-slotted rotors, but my stocks work great for now. The HP+ pad from Hawk is supposed to be a great all-in-one pad for street and track. I prefer to use full race pads at the track; the Pagids are unbeatable on stock rotors! Be sure to change your brake fluid (with race fluid-I use super blue and typ 200 from raceshopper.com) after every track day.

Aaron
 
  #3  
Old 09-01-2005 | 03:51 PM
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D_Nyholm
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From: Sayville, NY
I love the HPS pads that I have on my other car. I haven't seen the HPS pads for an '05 MCS though. Tirerack only had them for one axle (can't remember if it was front or back). Any idea where I can get them and still use the brake sensors?
 
  #4  
Old 09-01-2005 | 03:56 PM
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kyriian
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From: Toronto, ON
Ferodo DS2500, they held up for about 5 track days this year, although they do fade near the end of a session, but then i do go pretty hard....

on the street they do squeal just a bit, but for me its almost music in my ears
 
  #5  
Old 09-01-2005 | 04:00 PM
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DrPhilGandini
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
I have Hawk HPS Ceramics on the front of my 05 MCS (I could only get fronts.) The wear sensor fitted back just fine as the pads are identical in appearance and fit to the OEM ones. They stop very well, are low dust and no squeel on stock rotors. Pricey at around $100 to the door step, but worth it I think.


cheers,
 
  #6  
Old 09-01-2005 | 05:00 PM
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I will say I have an 02 MCS so I can get most if not all the pads made for MINIs, this is not an 05 I'm driving.
 
  #7  
Old 09-01-2005 | 05:05 PM
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Bullfrog
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Does anyone have a technical explanation why BMW/MINI brake pads produce so much brake dust? Are soft pads easier on the rotors or something? Or are they just cheaper? You all seem very knowledgeable on the subject so I thought I'd horn in here. If you put on greens or some others, does MINI void the warranty ?

Thanks
 
  #8  
Old 09-01-2005 | 05:41 PM
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Redbird73
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From: St. Louis
I ordered my HPS pads from raceshopper.com, they have slots for the wear sensor.

Originally Posted by D_Nyholm
I love the HPS pads that I have on my other car. I haven't seen the HPS pads for an '05 MCS though. Tirerack only had them for one axle (can't remember if it was front or back). Any idea where I can get them and still use the brake sensors?
 
  #9  
Old 09-01-2005 | 05:47 PM
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Alex@tirerack
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From: South Bend Indiana
Originally Posted by Redbird73
I ordered my HPS pads from raceshopper.com, they have slots for the wear sensor.
The rears are the issue,and hawk hasn't released them yet!

PS I run HPS too! I love the modulation / feel

Alex
 
  #10  
Old 09-01-2005 | 06:05 PM
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Alan
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From: New Braunfels, Tx
Mintex 1144 street/track pads front and rear. I have slotted rotors and use super blue brake fluid. I do a track day a month during the non-winter months. Thats March through November here.

Alan
 
  #11  
Old 09-01-2005 | 06:05 PM
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Right now, I have Mintex M1144 up front and EBC RedStuff and it's definitely the wrong combination for a daily driven Mini. The brakes squeal like a banshee just driving around town. I got Hawk HPS for the front and Mintex Redbox for the rear, along with new cryo-frozen Powerslots for the rear. I just have to find time to do it.
 
  #12  
Old 09-02-2005 | 05:25 AM
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snid
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From: Burlington, VT
Originally Posted by Fracky
I got Hawk HPS for the front and Mintex Redbox for the rear, along with new cryo-frozen Powerslots for the rear. I just have to find time to do it.
That's the pad combo I'm running. But I've still got the stock rotors. No noise issues 99% of the time. A little squealing at very low speeds every now and then. Not quite enough pad for the track, but much better than stock.
 
  #13  
Old 05-11-2011 | 11:09 PM
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princecasanova
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There are some cool Brake pads & shoes that is nicely fit for minis. They stop very well, are low dust and no squeel on stock rotors.
 
  #14  
Old 05-13-2011 | 01:42 PM
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MotorMouth
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From: Mililani,Hawaii
I think this is one of the oldest threads I've seen revived. Almost 6 years.

JC Whitney motorcycle pads? lol At least the price is cheap!
 
  #15  
Old 05-14-2011 | 01:26 PM
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martinb
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From: Silicon Valley
Originally Posted by sndwave
My trip in July to the Dragon seemed fine until the second day driving. My right front brake froze solid at a very critical turn and I almost drove straight in to the cliff ahead.
I know it's an old thread, but I'm surprised no one addressed possible reasons for the caliper freezing up. Often, it's a result of moisture in the brake fluid. The caliper gets so hot that the water boils which expands and then applies more pressure to the pads, even if you're not pressing on the brake pedal. And, more pressure means more heat which boils more moisture and very quickly, the caliper can lock up. The fact that it returned to normal after it had a chance to cool down is also a strong indicator of this. The cure is simple: A thorough flushing and bleeding of the entire brake system with quality fluid.
 
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