does anyone know where to get the rear brake tool???
#1
does anyone know where to get the rear brake tool???
My local dealership says they buy from Snap On and Snap On says they have no reference for the rear brake pistion tool.
My pads have zero material left and my first DE event this year is Saturday. 3 mechanics in the area do not own the correct tool to perform the brake job
My pads have zero material left and my first DE event this year is Saturday. 3 mechanics in the area do not own the correct tool to perform the brake job
#3
There are lots of ways to do it....
The key is that the piston needs to turn and compress to go into the caliper. I've seen two kinds at the local kragen. One is a cubical thinggy with lots of pins on each side to engage the many different hole patterns on all the pistons out there. The other has a dummy pad plate, with a threaded gizmo that presses while the pins on it's face turn. Any parts store should carry them. In a pinch, I've also used the tips of needle nosed pliers to get the piston to turn.
Sorry my descriptions are so crappy. When you see them, I think it will make sense....
Matt
Sorry my descriptions are so crappy. When you see them, I think it will make sense....
Matt
#4
#5
Whereas I've almost always resorted to using a C-clamp. It's not elegant, but it's much faster than using pliers, and can overcome a stuck caliper any day.
In most cases, I've found that the C-clamp actually works better than a generic brake tool (that's not to say it works better than the MINI/BMW specific tool).
In most cases, I've found that the C-clamp actually works better than a generic brake tool (that's not to say it works better than the MINI/BMW specific tool).
#6
#7
Long story kept short; I began this project two weeks ago and here I am. I tried using needle nose while also pushing the piston in - with the bleeder open, no luck. I did not use a clamp as I've used on every other car in production because this thing needs to spin and compress.
Matt, we've tried every tool possible, sounds quite funny really. I've had these apart twice and two mechanics have had them apart. All of us hit a wall at the piston.
Mini of Darien, Ct. is going to do the install on Friday. I simply have to sign a waiver for the non-stock parts being used - slotted rear rotors - all else is stock.
This is a simple 15 minute job. Makes me want to sell the car and never buy a BMW product again. I have to pay 2.5 hours of labor for a job that should take 30 minutes It's the frustration really, not the money.
Thanks for the very quick responses !
Matt, we've tried every tool possible, sounds quite funny really. I've had these apart twice and two mechanics have had them apart. All of us hit a wall at the piston.
Mini of Darien, Ct. is going to do the install on Friday. I simply have to sign a waiver for the non-stock parts being used - slotted rear rotors - all else is stock.
This is a simple 15 minute job. Makes me want to sell the car and never buy a BMW product again. I have to pay 2.5 hours of labor for a job that should take 30 minutes It's the frustration really, not the money.
Thanks for the very quick responses !
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#9
Originally Posted by PARTSMAN109
I just use a C clamp and have had no problems. As long as the little round thing on the end of the threads doesn't spin, you'll be fine. I never had to loosen the bleeder screw either.
Hope you're able to get it meb
#10
Originally Posted by meb
I did not use a clamp as I've used on every other car in production because this thing needs to spin and compress.
Just make sure the metal disc on the end of the threads spins with the threads. I just duct taped that thing to the threaded part of the clamp.
#11
#12
#13
You were the first one I called I can't get thru to your phone lately? Says "User unavailable" How's it going?
Okay, I've got a bunch of clamps for wood working and all have at least one part that spins. I'll try Matt's appraoch tonight; apply presure with the clamp while turning the piston.
I sometimes get a little analysis paralysis when a simple job goes ugly.
Originally Posted by onasled
call me...
Okay, I've got a bunch of clamps for wood working and all have at least one part that spins. I'll try Matt's appraoch tonight; apply presure with the clamp while turning the piston.
I sometimes get a little analysis paralysis when a simple job goes ugly.
#14
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Don't mean to sound sarcastic, but you could have saved yourself a whole lot of time and effort if you had just bought the tool from Harbor Freight. It has worked like a charm on the last three pad changes:
Harbor Freight: CALIPER TOOL SET FOR DISC BRAKES $39.99
Why do people want to spend the big dollars on rims but refuse to purchase a tool to properly work on a safety system that is used every time you drive the car?
Harbor Freight: CALIPER TOOL SET FOR DISC BRAKES $39.99
Why do people want to spend the big dollars on rims but refuse to purchase a tool to properly work on a safety system that is used every time you drive the car?
#15
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
and have never needed it, other than for my 75 FIAT. But I just made a part to do it (and that was when I had machine shop access). But you're probably right, at $40, and it comes with a a case...
Matt
Matt
The funny thing is, the second reply answers the question "does anyone know where to get the rear brake tool???" and it is ignored.
Get what you pay for?
Anyway, here is a great writeup buy OctaneGuy on how to do the work:
Detailed Writeup on Changing REAR Brake Pads-Beginners!
Hope you have better luck soon and get your MINI back on the road!
#17
#19
There are four such kits in the shop I occasionally use. Only one of the donuts fits, no problem there. But the flange that backs up to the other side of the caliper in all four is so large it will not insert into the 3/8" drvie perpendicular to the donut.
And, I left my tools at the office last night; I couldn't try Matt's technique. I'm just gonna take it to Mini tomorrow and get it done. I will order that kit today, however. BUT, ARE WE AURE THIS KIT WILL WORK WITH THE MINI?. i'M NOT BEING A WISE GUY, JUST DOUBLE CHECKING. Thanks for all the help gentlemen...I hope I can return the favor some day.
And, I left my tools at the office last night; I couldn't try Matt's technique. I'm just gonna take it to Mini tomorrow and get it done. I will order that kit today, however. BUT, ARE WE AURE THIS KIT WILL WORK WITH THE MINI?. i'M NOT BEING A WISE GUY, JUST DOUBLE CHECKING. Thanks for all the help gentlemen...I hope I can return the favor some day.
Originally Posted by SumWon
Don't mean to sound sarcastic, but you could have saved yourself a whole lot of time and effort if you had just bought the tool from Harbor Freight. It has worked like a charm on the last three pad changes:
Harbor Freight: CALIPER TOOL SET FOR DISC BRAKES $39.99
Why do people want to spend the big dollars on rims but refuse to purchase a tool to properly work on a safety system that is used every time you drive the car?
Harbor Freight: CALIPER TOOL SET FOR DISC BRAKES $39.99
Why do people want to spend the big dollars on rims but refuse to purchase a tool to properly work on a safety system that is used every time you drive the car?
#20
That particular kit is said to work without using any of the round plates; the end of the tool itself is already a perfect fit for the MINI rear calipers: http://www.mini2.com/forum/maintenan...what-pain.html
#21
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Originally Posted by meb
BUT, ARE WE AURE THIS KIT WILL WORK WITH THE MINI?. i'M NOT BEING A WISE GUY, JUST DOUBLE CHECKING.
If anyone can confirm that the kit works with an '05 MCS, please chime in.
Thanks.
#22
Originally Posted by BFG9000
That particular kit is said to work without using any of the round plates; the end of the tool itself is already a perfect fit for the MINI rear calipers: http://www.mini2.com/forum/maintenan...what-pain.html
The key is to make sure that the plate that provides "backpressure" to the threaded tool is seated correctly in the outboard pad carrier. If it's not perfectly squared up to the piston when you try to turn the compressor it will run into resistance and go nowhere.
Hope this helps...
#23
- and thanks to all again!
Originally Posted by markbradford
That is correct. I used it last weekend. You don't need any of the adapter plates. The "pad" at the end of the tool is the perfect size for the Mini real caliper. This is good because it reduces the amount of clearance required to get the tool in there in the first place. (Yay - you can run your pads right down to the backing plates! )
The key is to make sure that the plate that provides "backpressure" to the threaded tool is seated correctly in the outboard pad carrier. If it's not perfectly squared up to the piston when you try to turn the compressor it will run into resistance and go nowhere.
Hope this helps...
The key is to make sure that the plate that provides "backpressure" to the threaded tool is seated correctly in the outboard pad carrier. If it's not perfectly squared up to the piston when you try to turn the compressor it will run into resistance and go nowhere.
Hope this helps...
#25