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Brake wear sensors

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Old 10-18-2006, 07:40 PM
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Brake wear sensors

I just replaced my original pads with Hawk Ceramics. My sensor light came on about three days ago. I really don't care about having the sensors on there so I'm not really inclined to go get new ones and disassemble all of the work I've just done to put them in. Does anyone know how to turn the light off so the dash warning isn't on anymore? I've been told that only a dealer can do it, and I've been told that there is a way to reset the light without installing a new sensor. Which is it?
 
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Old 10-18-2006, 07:49 PM
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The sensors either complete the circut or open the circut.
(I am fairly sure that they OPEN the circut)
Try to follow the wire to the connector about 2 feet.
Left front and riglt rear.
It the light goes out ... GOOD
If not plug it back in strit the wires and connect


ONE of these must work

I have replaced both and after install of new units no reset was necessary.
 
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Old 10-18-2006, 11:01 PM
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I have aftermarket brakes/pads and I can not use the sensor. My front was fine but the rear I used a "Scotchlock" (Weatherproof phone wire connector) that completed the circuit. For some reason it took about a week to reset.

The stock repacement wire is only about $12 or $14 and is easy to replace. Good luck.
 
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Old 10-19-2006, 03:27 AM
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is it necessary to replace the sensor wire with each new set of pads? I am going to install the Hawk ceramics in a bit, too.

Also, (slight thread jack) what is the biggest benefit of the coated rotors: no rust? thx
 
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Old 10-19-2006, 04:03 AM
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Thanks for the help guys.
 
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Old 10-19-2006, 04:47 AM
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When I change pads in mine I will disable the sensors. Thanks for the info here.

An interesting thing I observed on a friends 2002 build 2003. No pad sensors.
 
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Old 10-19-2006, 04:51 AM
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Zakdog (you wouldn't happen to be a WIREDAWG are you?)

Do your pads have the notch for the sensor wire?

You only need to replace the sensor that is worn. If you have a good code reader it should tell you which one needs replaced. If not you will need to look at the pads. There is one on the front drivers side and one on the rear passenger side.

You can also do a search on coatings, sensors etc.

Good luck!

BTW Todd at TCE is great to work with when doing a brake upgrade!
 
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Old 10-19-2006, 07:26 AM
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Once you have replaced the sensor or closed the circuit somehow you need to leave the key in position #2 for about 30 seconds for the sensor light to go out.
 
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Old 10-19-2006, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Frodo
Zakdog (you wouldn't happen to be a WIREDAWG are you?)

Do your pads have the notch for the sensor wire?

You only need to replace the sensor that is worn. If you have a good code reader it should tell you which one needs replaced. If not you will need to look at the pads. There is one on the front drivers side and one on the rear passenger side.

You can also do a search on coatings, sensors etc.

Good luck!

BTW Todd at TCE is great to work with when doing a brake upgrade!
Nope...not WIREDAWG...

where is TCE? in Orlando?
 
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Old 10-19-2006, 11:38 AM
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When I put my Hawk Pad on the rears did not have a slot for the sensor so I just left it hanging out. No problems so far!
 
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Old 10-19-2006, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Darkness
When I put my Hawk Pad on the rears did not have a slot for the sensor so I just left it hanging out. No problems so far!
Rather than just leaving them hang I'd suggest using a tiewrap to keep it out of harms way.
 
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Old 10-19-2006, 06:47 PM
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It seems to me that the wear on the sensor has opened the circuit. So, am I thinking right that if I simply connect the two sides back together and close the circuit the light should go off?
 
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Old 10-20-2006, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Crashton
Rather than just leaving them hang I'd suggest using a tiewrap to keep it out of harms way.
They are tiewrapped out of the way of the caliper and rotor. Still hanging out there a bit though. Next time I have the wheels off I might try to disconnect them all together and see what happens . Too lazy last time.
 
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Old 10-20-2006, 11:56 AM
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It seems to me that the wear on the sensor has opened the circuit. So, am I thinking right that if I simply connect the two sides back together and close the circuit the light should go off?
I was told that this would do the trick if you didn't want to buy a new sensor Cigarguy.
 
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Old 10-20-2006, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ProfessorDave
I was told that this would do the trick if you didn't want to buy a new sensor Cigarguy.
Thanks, Professor. I appreciate the help. I was thinking that this would work, but my luck, I would do it and fry the ECU.
 
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Old 10-22-2006, 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by CIGARGUY
It seems to me that the wear on the sensor has opened the circuit. So, am I thinking right that if I simply connect the two sides back together and close the circuit the light should go off?
That is what I did. I used a connector that seals itself.

And...ProfessorDaveOnce you have replaced the sensor or closed the circuit somehow you need to leave the key in position #2 for about 30 seconds for the sensor light to go out.
 
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