I bought a 2003 MCS with 29.5k miles on it. Before I bought it it had the Brake Fluid Flush service and Inspection I at 26,239 miles.

My question is when should I replace the pads and can I get away with only replacing the pads? If I can just replace the pads I will do it my self. If not then I will need to either have the dealer do it or take it to a local job that works on BMW's, which I think they do mini's as well.

I have read about a sensor. Will that need replacing as well?

Thanks,
K

 

You can replace just the pads yourself if the rotors have enough thickness left. The rotors only seem to last through two sets of pads, so if you are still under the service agreement, get the pads and rotors changed under that.

Even if you don't like the dusty factory pads, the dealer will install new rotors each time and compress the rear calipers too, making it easier for you to change the pads again. The rear calipers need a special tool, but if they're almost fully compressed already, you can get away with using a big C-clamp.

If the wear sensor has not tripped by wearing through, it can be reused. Not all the 03s even have them.

 

If not all 2003 have them then is it necessary to even put it back on? If just replacing the pads should the rotors be turned?

 

The OEM rotors don't last long anyway, so if they are scored or warped enough to need turning, it's best to just replace them.

Not all aftermarket pads have a provision for the sensors either, in which case they should be tied back out of the way. If you drive until one sensor wears through, you will need to buy another one even if you're only going to tie it aside, since the dash light will stay illuminated until you do (unplugging it won't help).

 

You can 'eyeball' the pad wear on the rears by looking down through the wheel spokes. When the pad thickness approaches the backing plate thickness, it's time to order new pads. The dealership has a nice little tool that they can stick in there to measure the pad thickness and a report should come back to you during your inspections (if you are still in the free service period).

If you have the skills to replace the pads, I don't think that replacing the rotors is that much more involved. I did both pads and rotors on my old Nissan Altima with no problem... It's possible that the MINIs rotors are much more difficult to replace, but I wouldn't think so.

I don't bother turning rotors on newer cars... especially on ones driven hard. You usually only get another 20,000 miles or so of light street driving out of 'em and then you have to replace 'em (and get new pads too). For the cost of the labor and the 2nd set of pads, it's better (IMHO) to just buckle down and buy the new rotors the first time rather than turning 'em.

Like mentioned above, you can re-use the wear sensor as long as the brake wear light hasn't come on. Once that is tripped, you have to replace the sensor & wire ($25-30 at the dealer, I think).

I noticed a huge difference when I switched from the stock pads to Hawk HPS and a good brake fluid. I'm thinking about stainless brake lines and maybe the Tyrolsport bushings, but that's a bit far off right now.

 

According to the service manager at Mini Peabody in MA, Mini USA will replace the pads and rotors under warranty when the pads get down to 2mm of thickness left. Idfyou have not hit 36000 mi or gone beyond 3yrs since date of original purchase of the car, you can buy the extended warranty for around $599. This will give you another year of warranty. The cost of a brake job including rotor repair by Mini is around $1100 so it is well worth the cost. They will also give you another oil change and any other service ,i.e., transmision,clutch, etc. So I highly recommend it. DAZ

 

$1100! Wow! I bet you can get top of the line pads and rotors for $500 (or less). I'd do it yourself. Or ask a friend to help you that has experience doing it. The biggest problem with doing brakes, it not having tools with enough leverage to free the stuck bolts. An impact gun or at least some wrenches with long handles help a lot. I'd recommend a penatrating lubricant, but I don't think you're bolts need it after only 29,000 miles.

 

$1100? Wow! You can do Wilwoods on all 4 wheels (2 new calipers,4 lines,4 pads and 4 rotors) for $1425... Easily worth the extra $325 (not including the labor)!

 

At www.raceshopper.com I got 2 front rotors (cheapies $3X/ea) and pads: Hawk blue fronts and Ferrado 2500 rears for a total of ~$300. As I have not had to replace my street pad setup yet I can only assume that it will be even cheaper.
Get a basic torx set (plus T50 size for rotors),6' C-clamp & large pliers, and some ATE Super (get blue and gold, to alternate and save on shipping), and a Motive Power Bleeder. It may be a pain to learn how to do your first mini barke job, but ~$1100 for a brake job on a mini is like paying $200 for a 4 qrt non-synthetic oil change on a Chevy.

 

I just changed my pads and rotors on my 03 Mini S. The dealer wanted ~$750 (they said this included only 100 dollars labor per axle!). I bought all parts from ecartoys, $235 total.

I used OctaneGuy's great write-up to get me started,
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...345#post550345

Here's a few things I thought might me helpful:

I did not buy the special tool to retract the rear calipers. I used one of these: and a Quick Grip clamp to retract the rotor. I had a buddy help with the first one but did the second one by myself - wasn't too difficult and I saved a few bucks.

I also learned something about rotors: When I first put the new ones on (held on by the torx bolt only) the rotors seemed warped when rotated and actually hit the calipers as it spun around. I put the old rotor back on and it rotated true. So I made sure the back of the new rotor and the hub were clean and they seemd to mate up clean, but the rotor still warbled when rotated. Then, I put the four lug bolts in (without the tire) and tightened them snug, and Ta Da! the rotor seated to the hub and the rotor then turned true.

btw - my mini did not have the brake wear sensor. when my wife originally called the dealer to ask about the horrible noise the brakes were making, they told her it must be dirt because a light will come on when the pads need replacing. I thought that was kinda lame advice. Then again, I haven't been thrilled with any aspect of Mini's service.

 

When doing an entire brake job (pads and rotors), is it necessary to replace the brake fluid also? Is it tough to bleed the brakes? I have done it with my dad a couple times on other cars and it always seemed like a two person tedious job...

K

 

Well, I did not replace my brake fluid and I did not bleed my brakes. You should not have to bleed your brakes unless you open the brake line and introduce air into the system. If you follow the procedure for replacing brake pads (the link to OctaneGuy's write-up in my first post), at no point is the brake system opened to allow air into the lines and thus require brakes to be bled.

I've heard/read many opinions on brake fluid, from "it makes all the difference in the world" to "it makes no difference at all which brand you use." I've had a jiffy lube dude tell me my brake fluid was dirty and i'm lucky the car is stopping at all (of course he also told me my radiator fluid was in dire need of replacement, and at the time the entire radiator and fluid was two months old!)

 

I meant to include this in my post. ECarToys sent me this link:

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

 

Necessary no. A good idea yes, you will smile when/if you see little air bubbles from the old fluid. Thats air is bad and less conducive to a firm pedal feel. Second doing so will help prolong master cylinder life. A Motive power bleeder makes it a one man job.
I bled my brakes at 2.2k it was filled with air bubbles at all four corners.