BBK Installation - How Difficult?
#1
BBK Installation - How Difficult?
I'm looking to tackle the BBK install on my Mini today. For some reason, I'm a bit more worried about this job...than any other I've done before.
I do a brake job at least every 6 months on my other vehicles, but this one scares me. I bought the Wilwood 13" x .81" BBK, front only. I know there's some grinding involved, and I'm paranoid about screwing things up.
So for those of you who have done your own BBK installation, is there anything I should be worried about? Any tips, pointers or words of advice? I have another vehicle to drive, just in case I can't get it finished in time - so I'm not worried about rushing the project.
Thanks,
Gary
I do a brake job at least every 6 months on my other vehicles, but this one scares me. I bought the Wilwood 13" x .81" BBK, front only. I know there's some grinding involved, and I'm paranoid about screwing things up.
So for those of you who have done your own BBK installation, is there anything I should be worried about? Any tips, pointers or words of advice? I have another vehicle to drive, just in case I can't get it finished in time - so I'm not worried about rushing the project.
Thanks,
Gary
#4
It's covered in the instruction notes quite clearly Gary. You're arms would get seriously tired before you'd have it all screwed up!
Trace the M12 washer as a guide to the material to be removed between the ears on the knuckle. You can remove the forging line from the caliper if you wish but most of the required material should be taken only from the iron ears.
The tool for this is a 4" or larger Makita grinder. A dremel tool ain't gonna cut it. With the proper tool the entire time on this is about 5min per side as the needed removal is very small- only enough to allow the ears of the caliper not nest between the ears of the ears of the knuckle.
* This is only needed on the 13" kits and not on the smaller Wilwood factory brackets. Larger calipers; more room needed....
Trace the M12 washer as a guide to the material to be removed between the ears on the knuckle. You can remove the forging line from the caliper if you wish but most of the required material should be taken only from the iron ears.
The tool for this is a 4" or larger Makita grinder. A dremel tool ain't gonna cut it. With the proper tool the entire time on this is about 5min per side as the needed removal is very small- only enough to allow the ears of the caliper not nest between the ears of the ears of the knuckle.
* This is only needed on the 13" kits and not on the smaller Wilwood factory brackets. Larger calipers; more room needed....
#6
Todd,
I'm getting ready to start grinding, but am a bit confused on which caliper should be on which side. I'm doing the right side first (right side, if I'm sitting in the car). The model number marking on the caliper ends in "R", so I assume this is the right side caliper. My understanding is that the bleeder valves should be facing up. If I put the caliper with the "R" marking on the right side, they face down. If I put the "L" marked caliper on the right side, the bleeder valves face up.
???
Thanks,
Gary
I'm getting ready to start grinding, but am a bit confused on which caliper should be on which side. I'm doing the right side first (right side, if I'm sitting in the car). The model number marking on the caliper ends in "R", so I assume this is the right side caliper. My understanding is that the bleeder valves should be facing up. If I put the caliper with the "R" marking on the right side, they face down. If I put the "L" marked caliper on the right side, the bleeder valves face up.
???
Thanks,
Gary
#7
Trending Topics
#9
#10
Looking at the following link:
http://gandini.unm.edu/PGpages/Interests/BBK.htm
It appears that it should be installed as in my first picture (#1 above).
Gary
http://gandini.unm.edu/PGpages/Interests/BBK.htm
It appears that it should be installed as in my first picture (#1 above).
Gary
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
squawSkiBum
MINI Parts for Sale
15
10-02-2015 10:21 AM