There are 3 versions available. One that works on all Mini Coopers (with or without the backup light/fog light), one for the 02-06 Cooper S with the backup/fog light, and one for the 05-06 Cooper S without the backup/fog light.

To use with the backup/fog light equiped cars, the light needs to be removed. When not in use, the light can be put back in place and you don't even know the hitch is there.

Brent@miniaturetrailers.com

 

Sorry it took me so long to get to the thread here! Thanks to everyone for the compliments so far.

As for the backup/rear fog light removal, it is a snap, literally. Reach under the bumper and there are two clips that hold the light in place that one hand can pinch together and it pops right out leaving a nice open area for a 1 1/4" receiver hitch. I will admit, the Copper S with the backup/rear fog light is a little tight, but it is still accessible to put in the pin in the receiver. I have a backup light that I can put in my '05. I'll mount a hitch and get some shots of it posted to the website so people can see this version also.

Any other questions, just send me a note. Brent@miniaturetrailers.com

Thanks

 

If you use this system with a Cargo Platform and tote box - an idea that I really like - you conceal your license plate. How do people deal with that? Doesn't matter to me, but the nice officer might have other thoughts on that.

Peter

 

This is a great idea... maybe they could come up with a 2 person tent version

 

ala Pontiac Aztec?

 

Arnold voice: "It's a tumah!"

 

hey guys i have not read previous threads, but is it possible to tow a classic with a tow bar behind a 2004"s"? please say yes. i often want to take the two toys to car shows with me! am sick i know it> :-)

 

Good question!

The cargo carrier pictured on the website does come with pre-punched holes to allow you to relocate your license plate to the carrier (either the right or left side). Could be a pain, yes, but does put you in compliance with the law!

 

That's good - as long as you aren't driving at night. No license light is a violation as well.
Hmmmmmm--this may take some consideration. A light will be required - mayhaps something battery powered would suffice - and perhaps the use of "twist lock" bolts with recepticals on the car as well as the carrier so the plate can be moved easily without damaging either the plate or the boot-lid. I'll bet the plastic insert plugs in the boot lid will wear out from repeated cycling of the plate.

Peter

 

What bolt pattern do the trailer wheels follow? Do they match the MINI? Thinking in terms of matching wheels to the car.
Peter

 

Those trailers come with wheels that are 4 on 4 inch centers. Roughly equates to 4x101.6 mm. The wheels would probably fit, but I don't know if you'd have problems considering MINI wheels are hubcentric and not lugcentric. I found the wheel info after doing a little web hunting, I won't post it because this is a vendor thread and I don't want to undermine what Brent is selling.

 

Good question guys. I have not tried putting Mini wheels on the Miniature Trailers. I have an extra set that I can try but I think that even if the bolt holes match the off set wouldn't work. I'll check and post my findings.

 

The Mini wheels have very different offset that the wheels used on these types of trailers.

Someone with the access to a CNC machine could machine some spacers to adapt from 4x4" to 4x100. Someone may even have these out there already. You could even make the spacer fit the hubcentric part of the wheel and add a grease fitting to make it act like a bearing buddy. Now that would be trick.

 

Brent,

Do you know if the hole for the rear fog in the aerokit equipped cars lines up with your hitch as well?

Since the light is mounted to the bumper cover it may not be at the same height to line up. Have Aerokit and would like one of these!

 

Well I finally had time last weekend to install mine along with several other mods. Exhaust, springs, sway bar etc. Directions were very good. Photos a bit small for old eyes.
Install went well with just a couple of other pointers if you are by yourself doing it.
1-Using a zip tie through one bolt hole on each side to hold the bar in place while putting in the bolts helps.
2-Be sure to get a hitch pin with the drop latch piece on the end. Much easier to just slide a pencil in to release than trying to get a regular clip in and out.
3- On my '05, you must bend up one side of the heat shield to be able to put the pin in.
4- Wiring harness says to just pull out when needed - Run it under the boot tray panel and out the vent. Stuff in hitch tube when not in use.

5- You will need a piece to go under the ball for your safety chains to attach on.

Photos - http://imageevent.com/tl4x40/mini

Very well made piece and fits great, hope to test tomorrow afternoon and will post results.

Tim

 

Tim,

Thanks for taking the time to show off your new install and posting pictures. Many of us are anxiously awaiting a good solution to trailering with our MCS. I have owned numerous Da'Lan hitches on my German cars in the past and have been longing for a similar solution for my new MCS. I have a track trailer and hitch bike rack impatiently waiting in the garage for my MCS to get up to date. I commend Mark/mferguson on coming up with one of the best universal trailering solutions for MCS so far.

One comment though, I wounder how that electrical harness cord will hold up being stored in that steel tube, that close to the heat of the muffler tips all the time, especially in the heat of the summer. Anyone have any figures from a pyrometer as to how hot that area gets when the car is running in the summertime?

I also think there are a few other details to work out with this install:
1. Safety chains. You could find a forged eyelet to attach underneath the ball on the receiver, but I don't believe that would be safe or legal in all states. The safety chains should be (and maybe even mandated by some state laws) attached to something that is bolted onto the car chassis. Most hitches have loops on the receptacle end of the receiver, not the ball receiver end. You always need to think weakest link with trailering. The safety chains are there in case your receiver pin were to break or fall off, letting the receiver and ball slide off (with your trailer). If that happens, you don't want your safety chains attached to the same part as your ball . . . . both will take the same trajectory in your rear view mirror as you motor down the highway without them at 65 mph.

2. Theft. I am always nervous that someone will easily walk off with my track tires, tools, gas cans, etc while I am sleeping at the hotel the night before a track event. I lock everything down on the trailer, lock the safety chains to the hitch receiver and the use a locking pin for the receiver as well. Anything to slow down an amateur weekend thief. This set up makes that a bit difficult. I am not sure how a locking pin would be able to work with this set up. And of course safety chains come up again with this subject

I would love to hear anyone's, either Mark's or other board members, comments or solutions to these issues.

ben

 

http://imageevent.com/tl4x40/mini

There seems to be virtually no heat at all in the area of the tube. The wire comes from above and is not in a bind anywhere to rub through. The fake vent cover keeps it all nice and tidy. The heat shield is not bent far enough away to cause much of a difference. The Miltek cools off much faster than I would have thought for removeal as well.

You are correct about the chains needing to be attached to the vehicle. Still trying to determine the best way to do that and keep them out of the exhaust area. May pull the cover back off and just put long eye bolts down from the cross tube for the chains. Have no plans of going through a weigh station, so maybe they will not bust me! I have been pulling various trailers for 30yrs now and have never had anyone even look at the chains but me. Welded a cross tab on to the hitch for now.
The pin I used has a spring loaded cross tab at the end that requires a bit of work with a screwdriver to get it back out. No fear of it coming out under a load just from vibration.

Theft is always an issue. A friend lost 52k worth of racing quads from his enclosed trailer in a hotel lot a couple of years back. Never to be seen again. I try park close to a pole and cable off to it or at a minimum, run cables through both wheels. Motion sensitive siren works good under the trailer too. Usually that are made to hang on a door ****. Real trick is spending the money for a good cable or chain. Medical biohazard labels for your tarps are fun too.

The hitch worked very well. Empty trailer was not even noticeable. Loaded with 600lb quad, still no prob. Handled well at 70 on 4 lane and 60 on twisty two lane. Panic stop was not as bad as I expected. Common sense prevails on starting and stopping but I was pleasantly surprised with the overall capability of my Mini. You do pick up a bit of tranfered noise from the hitch but not much.

Stare factor goes up about 1000% pulling a loaded trailer though!

Overall, I am very happy. Should have thought of it myself!

Tim

 

One chain might work in the tow hook if it is long enough....hmmmm.

Tim

 

mmatarella,
I have not tested the hitches with any of the aero kits. Hadn't even thought of it. Dimensions to line up the hole are difficult to measure, almost a trial and error approach. If you want to order one and give it a try, I'll give you a full refund if it doesn't fit. That way I'll have an answer to the question too. I'm assuming this is a factory aero kit?

Tim,
You ran your electrical harness the same way that I did. I wasn't sure that everyone would want to do that, so I left it out of the instructions. I, too, have had no problems with heat with the harness installed over a year.

Unfortunately, this was the best alternative for the safety chains that worked easily. For periodic towing, I am comfortable that it will work. As a class I hitch with a max load of 1000lbs, shear of the solid steel cross pin in the drawbar will not occur.

Theft: I obviously park in a well lit location and usually ask the front desk where the parking lot security cameras are to make sure I am in great view of them. I use a bike lock to lock the trailer to the light post

I love your pictures Tim with the 4 wheeler and the Airstream!!

 

Tim, real proud of you. You did a great job. I have to come up with something strong to pull this 1/2 MINI trailer we are building this summer. I guess this will be a good place to start the research. Finally got the the car at my warehouse and will start striping it soon.

 

This one makes me laugh... It looks like the ATV is bigger than the car...

 

I live in Illinois, where road salt gets into everything. Leaving the wires exposed to the road air, just leads to frustration when you try to use them.

I have always kept my trailer wires in the trunk, and just led them out over the rubber molding when needed. I check to make sure there is adequate clearence, so the wires don't damage the car finishes, and of course don't get them caught in the latch. I have had this set up on my MINI S for two years and have not damaged the wires yet.

http://user.mc.net/~jdewey/MINI/Trai...h_in_use_1.jpg

Many trailer wire harnesses now come with a replaceable 3 foot extension, so if it does get damaged you just replace the extension. In this photo you can see my wiring adapter, which I just plug the three foot extension into when I need to use it. (The naked wires are just tying the adapter in place)

http://user.mc.net/~jdewey/MINI/Trai...on_adapter.jpg



John

 

I used velcro to mount my adapter in the left-side cubby. I have found, in
the past, rubber covers to cover the plugs when they are not in use if
someone doesn't want to extend their wires out of the boot when in use. I
don't recall whether I found the covers at Wal-Mart, Northern Tool, or
someplace else. Just check around and I am sure you can find them.

 

My install went well also. Instructions were great. The worst part of the job on my 05 MCSC <Identical to the one in Brents photos > was re-installing the plastic tower cover on the drivers side. I finally used longer bolts to locate the threaded holes and then clamped it into place while I feverishly worked to get the right bolts in place...took over an hour to get it back in place .
Beyond that it was very straightforward. The tip about using zip ties to hold the hitch in place is a very good one.
I don't have a center light but plan to get the rear fog retrofit when available. I ordered the hitch accordingly...but now I see the receiver so far inside I'm concerned about getting to the pin.
I'll look for a pin with the drop tab - good idea!
What size drop is that draw bar? Looks neutral from the photos.
Chain attachment - I'll hook to the draw bar. The load is so minimal I have no worry about loosing it.
I'll be doing my first tow Thursday - looking forward to it. After that it's off on a 2500 mile road trip including AMVIV. That should be a good test eh?

Peter

 

The Pin came from Advance Auto parts and like a dummy , I trashed the package without jotting down a part #.

I had that draw bar from a hitch on another quad and it worked perfect, yes it is just straight. Make sure you get one long enough to not hit the bumper. I also have a 2" drop or rise but had to drill a new hole so it would not rub the paint.

And yes Thom, lots of my riding friends want to see a shot of the Mni on the trailer being pulled by the quad! It would look good behind your Cabrio. Funny thing is, the quad may be a tad faster in the 0-60 run than most MINIs.

Tim